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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 746

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Propshaft Woe's
So the 300Tdi 110 has started clunking again....

So I get underneath half expecting it to be the rear drive flanges or diff (the last bits of the transmission that I worked on.

Good news me thinks as the half shafts and splines are fine (they should be only done a few thousand miles).

More good news I can't move the diff flange in any direction even if trying to swing off it.

Then I find the culprit. It's the Universal Joint (can't remember whether they are Hardy's or GKN but they weren't cheap stuff) nearest the diff flange on the rear. There is noticeable play in it. Greased up every 4-6 Months with little mileage and no serious off roading. Also the transfer box end on the front but this is absolutely minimal compared with the rear.

I guess the question is should I have wide angle propshafts on her as she does have a 2" lift. Is this why they are dying too regularly for my liking.

Also should I have Caster corrected radius arms on the front.

All opinions and ideas welcome. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #762654 9th Mar 2019 12:17pm
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jaygti



Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: essex
Posts: 375

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
I have 2”lift and Gwyn Lewis wide angle props , I still have to replace mine quite regularly. Doing one this afternoon in fact.

I have been told to take the prop off to grease it, so you can definitely get grease into all 4 cups. No idea if it works though. 2002 td5 90 county hardtop
Post #762666 9th Mar 2019 1:47pm
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jaygti



Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: essex
Posts: 375

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green

Click image to enlarge


Took it off last week 2002 td5 90 county hardtop
Post #762667 9th Mar 2019 1:49pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2063

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
In a similar situation to yourself. Cranked rear arms but still got UJ failure at diff side, failure in less than 8 months.

Ive got a fair bit of movement in the gearbox mounts (which are due ti be replaced) which may have contributed but unsure. Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent
Post #762668 9th Mar 2019 1:56pm
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Had to have my front one changed on friday as i drove to Harrogate from Bolton every time i let the revs off heard what sounded like a clunk like a bin lid closing then on the way home a mile away it shuddered and felt like i had a puncture on the front although the previous clunk was from the back i then pulled over and had a look under and the shinny sheared bolt on the u at the diff (rear) side was there right in front of me so after pulling it apart and holding up with zipp ties waited 4 hrs for the AA to take to the garage where the replacment sent by Paddocks arrived next day delivery and was fitted the day after along with greaseing both props
points i noticed before hand was a slight grinding but after having the wheels changed i thought it was something and nothing Embarassed and whilst after the fuel filter/pump in the tank refitted along with the fuel regulator and rocker gasket changed i should have asked to check the rest of the vehicle Back in 2 months for greasing again and a check on Diff oils etc
Post #762676 9th Mar 2019 3:33pm
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jaygti



Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: essex
Posts: 375

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Swapped u/j this afternoon.

As usual 3 cups were fine one was dry as a bone.
I greased the other end of the prop on the defender, and got grease out of two cups.
When I took it off to change the other u/j I greased it again and got grease out of all four.
So it seems that the best way sadly. 2002 td5 90 county hardtop
Post #762702 9th Mar 2019 7:05pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
Only part I'm not keen on regularly removing this the nuts from the transfer box end front and rear because of the captive bolts.
Diff side if you needed to it I should much easier to replace the bolts if need be as well as the nuts.
Not that you have to replace both but if you have a stubborn bolt the head can get roughed up.

I would have thought if you secure the LR properly which is crucial if out of gear, handbrake off if on the rear then you could in-bolt the diff side.
Tie the unbolted end up a little to take the weight and I would have thought you could manipulate the UJ's enough like that seeing as you can then rotate the prop freely and you have a fairly good angle you can manipulate it around as well.

Mind you it is a right faff to do so whether you do this or remove it completely.

In my case grease nipples being missing screwed my rear UJ, I'm pretty sure water got straight in.
So don't forget to check they are all present if you do go greasing Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #762722 9th Mar 2019 9:51pm
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 746

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
As no one has said that I desperately need wide angle props and as the existing ones don't bind up at any point I think I'm going to put new GKN or Hardy Spicer UJ's in the existing propshafts. As much as I like the look of the blue ones the cost is frankly scary. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #762823 10th Mar 2019 7:43pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
GKN on mine. Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #762830 10th Mar 2019 8:16pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2545

Scotland 
Any lift means the joints and bearings are working harder, the same would apply to the blue ones although the bigger bearings means each is doing less movement for each oscillation. I had them and was less than impressed.

Make sure you get the proper GKN UJs with the metal seal caps and larger journals. If you’re paying less than about £20 for each then check again.
Post #762842 10th Mar 2019 9:42pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

^^^ What was your experience with the "blue ones" Retro? I had been wondering about getting one. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #762858 11th Mar 2019 12:05am
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2063

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Same here. I just replaced the UJs with the type described above. Going to see how they run, if they fail again theres another issue causing thr failure. Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent
Post #762861 11th Mar 2019 6:49am
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 746

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
New GKN heavy duty Universal Joints arrived today.

New vice is due to turn up tomorrow so I should have her fixed by the weekend. Thumbs Up 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #762914 11th Mar 2019 6:20pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2545

Scotland 
donmacn wrote:
^^^ What was your experience with the "blue ones" Retro? I had been wondering about getting one.


At the time I was using the vehicle off road every day, was doing a set of rear brake pads in a few months and UJs lasted about 10k. Vehicle cleaned and everything greased weekly.

The blue ones lasted no better which led me to conclude that, for those not needing the wide angle function (i.e. no lift), they provide no benefit over standard. And the UJs were much more expensive to replace.
Post #762977 12th Mar 2019 7:23am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7682

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
the diff end does tend to go quicker as its at the rear of the vehicle and low down picking up all the grim off the roads.

a 2" lift but no dislocating should be fine with std props.

Jack up so one rear wheel if off the ground and rotate the wheel in neutral to see if the prop does bind. i doubt it does but woth checking. binding props tend to damage the outer ring where the cup sits and you can see it.

as above, wide angle props with the larger UJ jhelp distr the load but shouldnt be essential. check for wear in a frame bushes/joint and trailing arm bushes as something else could be contributing to the increased wear. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #763007 12th Mar 2019 10:42am
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