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Defender Fun



Member Since: 03 Feb 2019
Location: South East
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Land Rover defender td5 skidding when hard acceleration
Hello
I’m relatively new to the forum to please forgive me if I make an mistake. I have a defender td5 15p with full service history. I have a problem with it however. When in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear under heavy acceleration (e.g overtaking bike) the engine revs, before suddenly kicking in and giving drive to the wheels. This is a relatively new problem.
I believe it could be the clutch?
But I have also heard it could be sensor related?

Sorry for any vagueness above

Kind regards
Post #756551 5th Feb 2019 5:39pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 890

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
Sounds like you my need a new cluch. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #756556 5th Feb 2019 6:09pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Sounds like clutch being worn, or contaminated. How bad is it? Is there any oil leaks?
Post #756560 5th Feb 2019 6:36pm
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Clive



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver
Mine used to be like that, slipping in the higher gears when giving it the full beans, then catching up.

It was the clutch in my case, the friction plate wasn't that badly worn, it was the pressure plate springs that were unable to provide sufficient clamping force.
Post #756564 5th Feb 2019 6:42pm
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OsloBlue



Member Since: 14 Jul 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 822

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Oslo Blue
I had a similar problem not clutch related though.

It was always a spool down from a high speed run, i found that breaking early and not changing gears or engine breaking was the way forward. I'm on IG: https://www.instagram.com/osloblue42/
Current: TD5 '110 "Lucinda" Thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62562.html
Post #756567 5th Feb 2019 6:51pm
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Defender Fun



Member Since: 03 Feb 2019
Location: South East
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Hello
Thank you for all your reply’s,
This skipping effect doesn’t always happen, it seems as if you use the car more frequently it tends to happen much less. There doesn’t seem to be any other leaks, the transfer box rear output shaft seal was leaking but that was replaced last week. I should also as the clutch works perfectly.
Another way the effect can be described is like when an automatic downshifts a few gears when you accelerate hard. The one thing which seemed to improve it- more or less for one drive was cleaning the MAP sensor.

Look forward to more helpful reply’s
Kind regards
Post #756574 5th Feb 2019 7:00pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
On mine it was the fuel pressure valve leaking that would contaminate the clutch until it was burnt off.
Post #756600 5th Feb 2019 8:27pm
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Defender Fun



Member Since: 03 Feb 2019
Location: South East
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Hello
Thank you for your response, that does sound possible in my case, did you have to change it or tighten it? I have attached a picture from online- is that it?
Kind regards

Click image to enlarge
Post #756629 5th Feb 2019 9:44pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
You can buy rebuild kits at half the price (Bosch) or even cheaper if you fancy doing it often, I only did mine a few weeks ago and doesn’t take long Thumbs Up 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #756637 5th Feb 2019 9:54pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Fitted a complete new unit to mine.

Give your FPR and good clean and see if it’s leaking.

It’s worth checking the bell housing drain plug when servicing a Td5. They stay in all the time unlike the tdi’s, but can get blocked by crap, so best to remove drain plug and poke something up hole to make sure it’s clear.
Post #756650 5th Feb 2019 10:40pm
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Defender Fun



Member Since: 03 Feb 2019
Location: South East
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Hello,
Thank you for your responses, would it leak while the car is off?
Kind regards
Post #756656 5th Feb 2019 11:18pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
No. Leaks whist engine/fuel pump is running, and will leak most when just ticking over and returning the most fuel to the tank.
How many miles has your clutch done?

Andy.
Post #756685 6th Feb 2019 8:12am
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2159

United Kingdom 
Do you know if the engine has been remapped (electronically tuned) for more power? After mine was done, the previously OK clutch started to slip under full throttle.

I had a new clutch, and it was fine after that.
Post #756687 6th Feb 2019 8:20am
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achuakh



Member Since: 12 Apr 2012
Location: Singapore
Posts: 157

Singapore 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
These are the possibilities

1. clutch plate is worn
2. flywheel is on it's way out
3. there's engine oil leaking into the bell housing and contaminating the clutch

easiest way forward, open the drain plug to the bell housing, if there's any oil, then you know you need to change the output seal on the engine which means gear box and engine need to part. depending on how good your skills are and your ability not to drop the gearbox onto yourself, you might be able to get away without lowering the gearbox and transfer box.

if there's no oil in the bell housing, you might still have to drop the box and check the flywheel and clutch plate. if you paid for the labour to drop it, might as well change them all, including the release bearing.

the parts are not really very expensive, but the cost and effort to get them down, means it's best to do the whole lot.

since you are there check if the gear box has any wear on the input shaft, if so, you might want to change that and do a rebuild, but since you are opening it up, might as well change the synchro plates and then on to the transfer box, check for play in the input and output, might be it also needs new cross pin and seals, might as well add a high capacity oil sump to it as well to aid cooling. From the land of the most expensive land rover defenders on planet earth. At �125k for a XS 110 csw and you get to own it only for 10yrs! Please find me a good reason to stay on this island.
Post #756741 6th Feb 2019 2:11pm
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Defender Fun



Member Since: 03 Feb 2019
Location: South East
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Hello
Thank you for your replys, I will check and make use of all your useful advice as soon as I can.
I will update as soon as I get time to investigate.
I would be grateful if you can keep sending any helpful tips
Post #756760 6th Feb 2019 4:30pm
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