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Tractorman



Member Since: 08 Jul 2016
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 35

Scotland 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Indus Silver
Battery Life
My September 2011 Defender with Puma 2.4 is still on it's original battery. Not giving any problems at the moment, but now over 7 years old should I replace before it suddenly fails?
Regards Jim
Post #749237 4th Jan 2019 8:29pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19650

United Kingdom 
Mine is at least 8 years old and going strong perhaps even older.
I think a lot of people change theirs and pay a lot of money for no reason.

It really is up to you. Thumbs Up Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β›½οΈπŸ›’οΈπŸ‘¨β€πŸ”§πŸ§°βš™οΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§
Post #749240 4th Jan 2019 8:36pm
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Tractorman



Member Since: 08 Jul 2016
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 35

Scotland 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Indus Silver
Many thanks - good advice. The reason I ask is that many years ago with my car at that time I had ignored some initial warning signs of a failing battery, and then was left stranded far from home when it failed completely!
Post #749246 4th Jan 2019 9:04pm
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Litch



Member Since: 10 Mar 2013
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 760

England 
Totally your decision.
I replaced the battery (Bosch) on my 90 last year because it was not holding charge as well after being parked up for a couple of weeks (was getting sluggish) but at 13-years old I felt that I had got my monies worth! ONE LIFE, GET IT!
Post #749254 4th Jan 2019 9:35pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1287

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Hi Tractorman. Now you have asked, Sod's Law will no doubt kick in !!!

With the cold spell approaching I was thinking exactly the same about the original battery on my 2012 Puma.

I agree with custom90steve though. If it 'aint broke, don't fix it!
Post #749255 4th Jan 2019 9:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19650

United Kingdom 
Personally I'd be waiting to see warning signs that it's going to play up, as soon as you see that then replace.

Of course this weather it will take a little more to crank etc anyway.

I couldn't fault the Genuine battery at all. Whilst it may not be cheap it certainly has a very long lifespan compared to many out there. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β›½οΈπŸ›’οΈπŸ‘¨β€πŸ”§πŸ§°βš™οΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§
Post #749257 4th Jan 2019 9:46pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5427

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I would swap now. Last thing I’d want is to be stranded if it gets cold, and Sod’s law dictates it will be when you need the most.
Post #749258 4th Jan 2019 9:53pm
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Guy



Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: St Eval, Cornwall
Posts: 250

United Kingdom 
How about leave the current battery alone but carry a jump pack? Then if it does fail you won't be stranded.

I fitted a new battery today after just 5 years, but until this summer I was driving in a way guaranteed to kill a battery - loads of very short journeys and rarely doing journeys long enough to replace all the charge used to crank. I now commute 22 miles a day for work so I'm hoping I'll keep my battery more healthy.

To be honest I would have needed to change sooner but I have dual batteries and a split charge system so I was connecting them together on cold days to start the engine.

Let's not talk about my nearly dead Optima Yellow Top though!!! I fitted 4 Michelin Cross Climates to my wife's Freelander 2 today as well, expensive Land Rover ownership day!!! 
DINGO - '99 Discovery 2 V8 with 300Tdi transplant, chawton white. Repatriated from Australia and expedition prepped.
**FOR SALE**
SHARKY - '06 Discovery 3 HSE Auto, bonatti grey. SOLD.
GEORGE - '99 Discovery 1 300Tdi Auto, willow green. Daily driver, travel companion, part of the family! SOLD.
PINGU - '96 Defender 110 300Tdi station wagon. SOLD.


Dream LR - 130 pop top station wagon camper.
Post #749261 4th Jan 2019 10:05pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
Well our 11 plate 90 started showing signs of problems with the battery. I decided not to risk it and changed it.


A simple check on state of battery is measure its resting voltage when it is nominally fully charged and then measure it say a few days later and see what voltage drop.

The alternative is the old fashion drop test meter.






Brendan
Post #749269 4th Jan 2019 10:49pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16929

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
My 2007 DC is on the original battery (233k miles now) and still right as rain . Provided that it is used regularly it should last years.

If it's not broken why replace it?
Post #749278 4th Jan 2019 11:59pm
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Marks Landy



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 296

United Kingdom 1985 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Java Black
Hope you have a set of jump leads in the back.
Post #749288 5th Jan 2019 12:35am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19650

United Kingdom 
I always carry jump leads and always have done. They need to be HD too. Never know if you might need them or could help someone. Although the latter I would have my hesitations with the people around today.

As Blackwolf has mentioned also, the Genuine battery has an excellent lifespan.
I have a feeling mine may even be original back to late 07 so that is some time and nearly 70k and I have had many periods of short journeys and in the past been ran down low enough voltage to not start. (parasitic drain.) and it’s still going strong. With all these aftermarket batteries, howxare people coming off for breathers? I suppose some are sealed but not all? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β›½οΈπŸ›’οΈπŸ‘¨β€πŸ”§πŸ§°βš™οΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§
Post #749295 5th Jan 2019 12:52am
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 681

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
So with this discussion in mind, would it make sense to install a dedicated voltmeter attached to the battery to help monitor battery health and charge?

Or maybe a CTEK system? Monitor and direct outlet charge when parked?

Based on my recent experience, a variance of 1 to 2 volts is enough to not make a Puma start as the ECU has to see at least 12V for the truck to start. At least this is how we saw it while fiddling around with the truck while I was having fuel supply issues.
Post #749305 5th Jan 2019 6:12am
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discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2496

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Tractorman, you've already had experience of a failed battery. The problem is (as mentioned by a number of members) that you ignored the tell tale signs of an imminent failure. I would leave the battery well alone unless it starts playing up and then at the first signs of any problems swap it out. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8
Post #749316 5th Jan 2019 9:41am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16929

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Marks Landy wrote:
Hope you have a set of jump leads in the back.


Of course, always.

There are Defender owners who don't carry jump leads? Shocked
Post #749320 5th Jan 2019 9:52am
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