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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 247

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Running mains hook up into a Defender

Morning,

When we go camping for longer periods in the summer and stay on one site for more than a few days we quite often take a mains hook up. rather than running the cable into our tent and having the fridge and coffee maker in the tent has anybody got any genius ideas on how you can run the hook up cable into the Defender and leave the fridge etc plugged in and strapped down but running on 240v instead of 12v.

I had been looking at getting a locker fitted in the rear quarter panel like this: https://www.landroverdefendersecurity.com/...insert-lhs

but before I start major surgery I thought I would check if anybody else has implemented a better idea.

Thanks Keith

Post #749346 5th Jan 2019 12:25pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 5570

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

Hi Keith,

if it were just the fridge I'd suggest something along these lines;

Install 12V outlet in the panel for the rear speaker (drivers side) as many have done on here already. this can then be used to plug a charger into it which not only charges the battery but obviously keeps the fridge running etc.

Unfortunately this only keeps stuff running that's already plugged into the 12V system which I'm guessing the coffee maker isn't?

probably not the answer you were looking for but hopefully gives some additional food for thought?
Thumbs Up

Post #749356 5th Jan 2019 1:45pm
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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 247

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black

All suggestions are welcome, running a charger to trickle into the battery is part of the plan as the under-foxwing lighting is all 12v off the Aux battery.

The problem I'm trying to resolve is the best way to run the 240v cable into the vehicle. Last summer I ended up feeding it through one of the rear windows and just accepting that it wouldn't be rolled right up. My thoughts with the rough parts locker was to have a 240v connection available on the outside of the vehicle to supply a 240v socket on the inside face of the locker that I could plug things like the Ctek and fridge etc into. I was also thinking about having a Din/Hella socket and USB socket within the externally accessible side for use without having the vehicle open.

Thanks Keith

Post #749370 5th Jan 2019 3:41pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 5570

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

sorry - see what you mean.

not the perfect solution but when I've been charging mine over night I ran the extension lead straight into the boot and shut the door albeit I think only onto the first latch.

you're clearly looking for a 'proper solution' and what you've suggested looks ideal. Thumbs Up

the other option but probably not nearly as good is there's something kinda similar out there that replaces the wing top plastic plate.

Post #749371 5th Jan 2019 3:48pm
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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 247

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black

Caterham,

I did exactly the same when I needed to recharge the aux battery when my previous coolbox ran it below the 11v mark and the VSR wouldn't close. But yes I'm looking for something smarter as a permanent install, particularly for when its not just on the drive.

I had previously had one of these pencilled in for going into the drivers wing https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/gmb/gmb-fender-locker.html but can't use that as I have the Naka raised air intake installed now.

I wonder if there is something I can install where the old air intake is on the side of the wing.......... Would be better than cutting into the solid panel (mine is a USW). Perhaps an idea that can be developed there. Keith

Post #749372 5th Jan 2019 3:57pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 5570

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

sorry if this isn't be hepful.

I noticed on your gallery what appeared to be the instructions for a swing away spare wheel carrier.

if you have one could something be mounted behind the wheel. although it would require cutting the door perhaps done right it wouldn't be seen and would be covered up when the original wheel carrier goes back on?

apologies I don't have a swing away so not sure if this is a practical ideal or not just a thought - sorry?

Post #749374 5th Jan 2019 4:07pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 5570

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

this mounted into back door card internally

https://uk.images.search.yahoo.com/search/...tion=click

this suitably mounted into the inside of spare wheel

https://uk.images.search.yahoo.com/search/...tion=click


.....I'll shut up now. Embarassed

Post #749375 5th Jan 2019 4:16pm
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RRS2



Member Since: 22 Apr 2018
Location: Southampton
Posts: 50

United Kingdom 

My 240v connection just below the spare.



Click image to enlarge

Post #749377 5th Jan 2019 4:32pm
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Badger110



Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: South hams
Posts: 524

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Buckingham Blue

I'm looking to do similar.

I would install a 16amp commando socket on the rear of the vehicle ( https://www.screwfix.com/p/abb-surface-soc...src=aw.ds)



to plug the mains into, from here i would then need to be able to swap from 12v internal battery to 240v mains as well as set it up so it can charge the battery....

or perhaps just have it charging the battery and continue on the 12v...we dont have alot of stuff running in the truck.

Post #749403 5th Jan 2019 5:39pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 3446

that's wrong type and will not work with 16 amp plug and Coupler EXTENSION LEAD

you will need Wall Mounted Plug (Appliance Inlet) 16amp 2 Pin & Earth 230/240v AC Blue IP44

https://www.screwfix.com/p/abb-surface-plu...ip44/6490f


Last edited by dorsetsmith on 6th Jan 2019 6:11pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #749406 5th Jan 2019 5:47pm
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Badger110



Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: South hams
Posts: 524

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Buckingham Blue

Embarassed

My bad! I listed the female one Embarassed

Post #749417 5th Jan 2019 6:51pm
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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 247

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black

I think I prefer the look of the socket with the cover for mounting on the vehicle and then carry a male to male cable to make the connection.

Will need to have a look and find a good spot that it could be mounted where it's not going to get soaked or knocked off.

If nothing else it is a lot cheaper and less installation than the rough parts locker. Keith

Post #749435 5th Jan 2019 7:46pm
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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 247

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black

Badger.

The ARB fridge does an auto select on voltage so you can leave it plugged in to both and it runs on 240v primarily or 12v when there isn't 240v. (Or so the manual tells me). Keith

Post #749436 5th Jan 2019 7:48pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 3446

Keith5 wrote:
I think I prefer the look of the socket with the cover for mounting on the vehicle and then carry a male to male cable to make the connection.

Will need to have a look and find a good spot that it could be mounted where it's not going to get soaked or knocked off.

If nothing else it is a lot cheaper and less installation than the rough parts locker.



Or just get the right cover for appliance inlet 16 amp blue https://www.rselectricalsupplies.co.uk/gew...0263_11802

Post #749443 5th Jan 2019 8:16pm
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Badger110



Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: South hams
Posts: 524

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Buckingham Blue

Keith5 wrote:
I think I prefer the look of the socket with the cover for mounting on the vehicle and then carry a male to male cable to make the connection.

Will need to have a look and find a good spot that it could be mounted where it's not going to get soaked or knocked off.

If nothing else it is a lot cheaper and less installation than the rough parts locker.


The issue with a male to male connection is one end will have live terminals exposed ( if you plug into the mains hookup first )

A male to female will be safer in this instance Thumbs Up

On the truck, fit the male version of the socket, something like this with a cover on it;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Caravan-Mains-240...3030874910

Where to fit...well the back does seem the logical as it'll have less chance of being knocked off.

RRS2's idea is a good one

Post #749448 5th Jan 2019 8:50pm
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