 | Home > Td5 > TD5 takes forever to warm up |
 
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3247   
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My TD5 used to take ages to get warm air into the cabin and, in my case, the fix was simple and is a known problem.
Set your heater control lever in the cab to maximum heat. Open the bonnet and on the top of the heater box you will see a lever with a cable attached. Note it’s position and then put the heater control to cold in the cab. Check in the engine bay that the lever has moved. If it has then you have the correct heat control cable. Now put the cab lever back to max heat. In the engine bay undo the grub screw holding the cable to the lever so that the lever can be moved but the inner part of the cable stays in place. Now push the lever as far right as it will go and clamp the inner cable back to it with the grub screw. You now have full movement on the heater control and, hopefully, more heat. Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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29th Oct 2018 4:08pm |
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| bigfatsi Member Since: 07 Sep 2018 Location: Teesside Posts: 48  
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Thanks Bob. That's something I can do tonight.
Cheers! S |
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29th Oct 2018 4:17pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7686 
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mt td5 was the same, took ages to heat up, i fitted heated seat pads. Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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29th Oct 2018 4:17pm |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831 
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You could also check the thermostat for two reasons.
1. to make sure it is working correctly 2. Some Td5's were fitted with the incorrect thermostat just like some of the 300 series were, they were fitted with hot weather instead of cold weather thermostats.. Its only a 5 degree temp difference . Don't make old people mad. We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to  us off.
Richard |
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29th Oct 2018 6:04pm |
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| Mike c Member Since: 11 Aug 2017 Location: Maldon, Essex Posts: 905  
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As generally said above, its best to check the basics before adding heated seats etc and spending loads of money unecessarily, my td5 heater is fine, yes it takes a bit longer to warm up as the weather gets colder, but I do have to turn the heat down after 15-20 mins as it's too warm for me. A heated front screen is a good idea on a defender though, and not too expensive to add.
Obviously everyone is different on their expectations and how they feel comfortably warm so it's difficult to know, I generally don't like to be really hot, others do! Mike |
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29th Oct 2018 6:23pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16876 
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TD5s are famously slow to warm up, due to being relatively efficient (and hence wasting less energy in the form of heat). This is the reason that LR offered a fuel-burning heater as an option on the TD5 Discovery 2.
My Disco, which does not have an FBH, takes about 5 or 6 miles to generate any degree of warmth from the heater, and has always been like this (I bought it new). My Puma Defender is whacking out warm air in about half this distance. |
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29th Oct 2018 6:35pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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What you need is a decent rad muff
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic64296.html Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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29th Oct 2018 9:26pm |
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| bigfatsi Member Since: 07 Sep 2018 Location: Teesside Posts: 48
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Thanks for the replies.
The car already has heated screen and heated seats (XS Spec?) although personally I think heated is a bit to strong a word for the miserable output of the seats. A good curry the night before warms the seats up better, if you know what I mean. This morning I took Bob's advice and got another few degrees movement on the pivot and a few degrees more in the cab! Winner! I've also got a Thermostat to fit. So it's just any 'red' antifreeze? Many thanks! S |
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30th Oct 2018 9:56am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758 
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Anti-freeze colour isn't a reliable way to determine the type in my experience! What you want is OAT coolant. It's also worth doing a full drain and flush, as if someone has in the past put the wrong type in, it can react really badly with the OAT stuff.
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30th Oct 2018 11:39am |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897 
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Mine takes at least 5 miles before the guage moves up and the heater starts to work.
Good thing I've got heated seats and screen.   |
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30th Oct 2018 1:00pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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If you are going to be replacing your thermostat in the near future could I persuade you to do a chemical flush of your coolant system at the same time?
On my TD5 it made an amazing difference to the heat-up time and the amount of heat generated when hot. The heater flap is a great call. I will add that at the same time it is worth checking the condition of the thick foam seal between the intake plenum and the heater box. They degrade over time and are an easy and cheap DIY fix. A radiator muff is also a good call, especially if you are an early morning short distance commuter. However, be mindful that if you are doing longer journeys you may have to pull over and roll the muff up if the engine is getting too hot. A proper temperature gauge is useful here. Check for leaks or weeps around the hose unions and from the water pump. The latter has o-ring seals that are known to perish and fail. Might be an issue if the seals are old and a rad muff is installed to bump up the heat. If you want more out of your heater then an upgraded heater element might be the way to go. It is said it is better, but I have not seen any information on actual output. A few interesting observations from owning a MadMan gauge; 1) since upgrading to a bigger intercooler the overall engine temp is consistently lower than with the standard intercooler by 2-5 degC. 2) whilst cruising at 60-70 mph (since this frigid spell has begun) the coolant temperature hovers around the 70 degC mark, only heading toward 80-85 degC during prolonged acceleration and hills. As the thermostat is rated to open from 82 degC through to 96 degC then the radiator is basically redundant. I am tempted to buy a rad muff to see what actual difference that makes. Perhaps an experiment is called for... The ultimate "Heat-Up" test: Standard - Rad muff - no fan  |
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30th Oct 2018 1:30pm |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897
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When mine was flushed out about 12 years ago a ton of rusty swarf piled up on the floor!
Good ol' Land Rover quality control.  |
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30th Oct 2018 2:03pm |
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| Adam17 Member Since: 15 May 2018 Location: Within Bedfordshire Posts: 1193 
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I feel sorry for you all!!
My TD5 is nice and warm within the 2 mile drive to work... Admittedly I run the engine for 10 mins or so before I leave the house. And my seats again are lovely and warm - almost HOT on my back long before I get to work. I feel very lucky! Tomorrow morning ill time/gauge distance and update if I remember.. Regards Adam Loving The Duchess The Defender 110 TD5 XS My Defender story - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic64005.html |
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30th Oct 2018 2:46pm |
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| MJN110 Member Since: 18 May 2015 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 380 
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I have just followed Bob Nev advice and adjusted my heater control and I am well impressed with the improvement.
The extra movement was very small Thanks Bob but why did I not think of that? Still not as good as the furnace in my Puma! 2016 Defender Landmark 90 2005 Defender CSW TD5 90XS |
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30th Oct 2018 4:09pm |
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