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No 6



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 65

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Coniston Green
Defender 300tdi binnacle clock wiring Help.
Hello Folks

The binnacle clock in my 94 300tdi has never worked and the previous owner was a little "maveric" with his wiring. Following on from a snapped ignition key I replaced the barrel and took the opportunity to fit my Raptor binnacle and mount.

I have temperature, Fuel and a clock in the binnacle and the clock is pictured as below.


Click image to enlarge


In the second pic below



Click image to enlarge


The two wires on the over the empty hole were all that was connected, the yellow to the bulb with the 90 degree connector and the black just wrapped around the screw down bracket for the clock on the centre.

Can't see any live connection which I presume goes to the bigger connector and the small one at the bottom is where the black cable is supposed to go? Where do I get a live from? Presume it's got to be a permanent live?

I'm clueless on electrics, would be nice to get it working!!

Thanks in advance. Bow down
Post #733623 8th Oct 2018 4:04pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4385

United Kingdom 
The larger connector will be your permanent live, can be found at the Ign switch or fuse box or taken directly from the battery +ve, whatever is more convenient.

Smaller connector on the dial is the body earth and will be the black wire. It will go from here to the next dials earth point, then on to the main body earth point.

Then the copper male spade is the dial light +ve. This can be spliced from one of the other illumination +ves of the other dials, turning the light on when the vehicles side lights are turned on.
Post #733631 8th Oct 2018 4:34pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Hi,

I also have a '94 300 Tdi - but you'll have to excuse me not running outside to dismantle the dash right now! On the other hand, I did have the workshop manual right beside me.

This shows black as earth; a purple wire as power; and red/white as illumination. I have no detailed memory of what's behind my dash, but if no-one else chips in I'll see if I have any photos of that from when I did the rebuild. Failing that, I'll try and find the time to have a look and get a photo. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #733635 8th Oct 2018 4:42pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6475

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Agree with the above.

Looks like the yellow wire has been joined to the illumination feed (Red/White) - this goes to the right angle spade.

Black earth to the small male spade riveted to the dial case.

Purple permanent, you will need to find one. You may need to bring a wire across from the centre dash switches/lighter socket area as this is where some of the factory clocks and aux instruments were fitted.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #733637 8th Oct 2018 4:55pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

I was googling for something else wiring-related and happened to come across this item on ebay. (If the link works).

It shows what looks like a small separate loom for the clock. Just in case it helps.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defe...SwvktaXeol Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #733646 8th Oct 2018 5:44pm
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No 6



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 65

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Coniston Green
Thanks Guys, appreciated.

One thing, I don't have any purple wires on the loom, I do have green, a red with white stripe running to each bulb and black which is looped on ring connectors to the back of each gauge (earth).

Looks like illumination from the yellow which has been spurred off the red with white stripe from the next bulb / gauge. Earth is looped off the back case of each clock and the others seem to work so it looks like the main live that is missing.

Is green a permanent live or replaced purple as live? There isn't a purple even within the main loom at the plug side. If I took one of the ignition which of the connectors on the back do I join too?

Sorry! electrics really aren't my thing.
Post #733652 8th Oct 2018 6:31pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

If you look at that ebay link I posted, one of the pics shows a separate loom for the clock with a small red plastic plug on it. Somewhere behind the clocks on your car there must be a matching plug on the main loom. Presumably it's not attached to anything if you don't have the specific clock loom. You could take your power from there?

When I first started working on cars - waaay back when - I found the simplified wiring diagrams in the Haynes manuals really helpful - you could follow the electrons around from the battery to earth. I'm really happy with the 300tdi wiring because it's just as simple. Modern stuff, with pulse electonics...... no idea. So, if you have a Haynes manual check out the wiring diagram pages. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #733656 8th Oct 2018 6:40pm
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No 6



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 65

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Coniston Green
Thanks Donald

It was a helpful link, I've just been out and checked and there are no red plastic plugs at all.

Unfortunately the guy I bought the landy from was a bit of a get in there and make it work sort of guy.

He wired up

6 spots to the front bumper
4 spots to the roof bar
2 spots on the rear
8 speakers
2 Horns
1 subwoofer
Winch
CB Radio
Aftermarket stereo (home fit not plug box)
Moss alarm (never worked)
Plus all the associated switches

I've spent an age removed what I could (probably 50m of wiring). I'm sure the remnants of the main loom are still there but everything is cut, taped, spliced or just hanging and not connected.

I'm replacing the bulkhead next spring and was looking out for a complete 300tdi loom to fit when I swap the bulkheads over, it was a quick fix in the meantime. I'll have a go tomorrow, I've just seen a purple wire in there somewhere so I'll take a spur from that.

Thanks again.
Post #733667 8th Oct 2018 7:14pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

wow!

He must have been deaf, with poor eyesight after dark!!

If you don't have one already, then when I started out, I found an illuminating wiring tester to be a really handy tool. Basically a metal housing - looks like a centre punch - with a lightbulb, a sharp point and a wire to a crocodile clip.

The pin was sharp enough to go through the plastic insulation into the metal wire; the clip goes to an earth; and the bulb lighting up with ignition on or off would tell you if it was switched or permanent power. I still have one hiding in the bottom of a tool box somewhere.

They are very expensive (though not nearly as much as a genuine part) but autosparks do the various 300Tdi looms now. Maybe for a future stage though if you ever really want to get things back to as standard as possible. One of their main looms is on my wish list. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #733680 8th Oct 2018 7:57pm
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No 6



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 65

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Coniston Green
Thanks Again Donald

Autosparks is an interesting site and saves me researching when the time comes.

Just been doing a bit of reading up on permanent lives vs switched lives, am I right in saying that sources of permanent lives are as follows:

Cigarette lighter
Starter motor
Positive of Alternator
Battery
Plus Fuse 7 in the engine bay fuse box - The purple wire as per the below diagram?

If I was to run a permanent live from any of these locations to the clock would it need an inline fuse?



Click image to enlarge
Post #733725 8th Oct 2018 10:18pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4385

United Kingdom 
Quote:
Just been doing a bit of reading up on permanent lives vs switched lives, am I right in saying that sources of permanent lives are as follows:

Cigarette lighter
Starter motor
Positive of Alternator
Battery
Plus Fuse 7 in the engine bay fuse box - The purple wire as per the below diagram?

If I was to run a permanent live from any of these locations to the clock would it need an inline fuse?


Yes it would be best to use an inline fuse to protect it from power spikes. The exception is fuse 7, taking power from the right hand side of the fuse as you look at it in the diagram would be the same as if you put a fuse in yourself. Obviously if you take the power from the left hand side of the fuse then you should put a fuse in as well.

Which of these you choose to take the power from really depends on where your clock is going to be fitted; for example if in the main instrument binnacle then the ign switch would be a good option; if the clock is going to be in the centre dash above the fuse box, then fuse 7 of the cigarette lighter are good options.
Post #733760 9th Oct 2018 9:06am
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6475

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
There is no fuse box in the engine bay, the diagram means the bulkhead fuse box Wink

I would check behind the instrument panel, and behind the lighter/centre switch panel for a purple.

There's also a permanent supply for the radio which should be available behind the centre panel.

The benefit of the purple wires is that they are fused. Brown is unfused permanent 12V.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #733772 9th Oct 2018 10:09am
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No 6



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 65

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Coniston Green
Thanks very much guys,

It hasn't happened yet but I somehow feel you all have stopped a landrover dash from burning!!!

Thumbs Up
Post #733780 9th Oct 2018 10:57am
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2196

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
The 300Tdi does have a fuse box in the engine bay though. It is a similar fuse box to the one which the TD5 has under the driver'sseat. The passenger compartment fusebox is the one on the bulkhead in front of the gear levers.

It may be a little confusing as that is a MY99 wiring diagram though

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale


Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread
Post #733802 9th Oct 2018 11:56am
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6475

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Sorry yes there is "Fuse Link" box, but it's not something you'd go digging around in for a clock permanent supply Wink

(Edit: ditto) Just spotted the diagram above is the Td5 diagram - says 1999MY at the bottom so not correct for 1994 300 Tdi Smile

This is the 1997MY which will be closer, but as the the 1994 doesn't have the red connectors it's still not right Embarassed


Click image to enlarge
  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #733805 9th Oct 2018 12:01pm
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