 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Snapped crossmember bolt |
 
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707   
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Drill it out 130's have feeling's as well you know
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18th Sep 2018 2:34pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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which bolt exactly?
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18th Sep 2018 3:01pm |
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| TechnoTurkey Member Since: 25 Jul 2016 Location: Worcestershire Posts: 88 
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The cross member bolt at the bottom of the factory ladder.
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18th Sep 2018 3:05pm |
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| TechnoTurkey Member Since: 25 Jul 2016 Location: Worcestershire Posts: 88
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Bolt as per this pic:
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18th Sep 2018 3:06pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 723  
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If you soak it in penetrating fluid, you might find that 5mm is enough to grab on with using a set of good quality mole grips? 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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18th Sep 2018 5:02pm |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707
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Is this a bolt that goes into a captive nut that fixed onto the crossmember? if so:-
Option 1 file the remains flat, get a centre punch and punch the exact center of the bolt, drill a 5mm hole into the remains of the bolt. At this point you may be lucky and find that the drilling process may have weakened the bolt enough to unscrew it with some molegrips. If not then drill a bigger hole that matches the internal diameter of the thread of the bolt. Then tap the hole out to clean the existing thread in the captive nut. Option 2 drill the bolt out over size and replace with a bolt over size. (if you can get your fingers in behind the crossmember) Option 3 Drill the bolt out over size to suit a rivnut and fit a rivnut to match the existing. Option 4 replace the chassis (PS i'll take your old one off your hands)  130's have feeling's as well you know |
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18th Sep 2018 5:07pm |
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| NormanD Member Since: 12 Aug 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 282
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Climb underneath, clean the threads of the remainder of the Bolt with a wire brush, yes I know its awkward, use lots of penetrating oil, use mole grips on the broken head end to jiggle the remainder in and out, it you will probably be able to remove it. Best of luck. NormanD WE191
2015 110 XS Utility 2014 VW Caravelle 180 Executive |
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18th Sep 2018 5:35pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3612 
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clean up the rear as previously suggested, then drill a hole the same size as the bolt in a bit of scrap strip steel, arc weld the strip to the bolt, unscrew using the strip, the heat from the welding will most likely release the bolt from the thread DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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18th Sep 2018 6:34pm |
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| trickster5000 Member Since: 12 Dec 2015 Location: East Yorkshire Posts: 487 
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As above but you could use a nut instead of a metal strip. Remember to disconnect the battery before welding anything on the chassis to protect your electrical equipment. Matt.
'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html |
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18th Sep 2018 6:46pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Ok so the rear tub mounting bolt. I think if you move the plastic shield in the back of the wheel arch you can get at the back of that bolt. so you can give it a good soaking with release fluid. Ordinary WD-40 or Diesel will do, but proper penetrating oil will be better. Halfords even do a WD-40 branded 'penetrating fluid'. Once you've done that centre punch the middle of the bolt and drill into it, chances are the heat from drilling will be enough to free it off. 5mm is probably not quite enough to get a good grip on it with mole grips without them slipping and damaging paint. |
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18th Sep 2018 7:59pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1186  
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Puddle weld another nut on top.
 Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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18th Sep 2018 8:20pm |
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| apt100 Member Since: 05 Mar 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 1547 
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You could also try the drilling options above using a left hand drill bit. It might just unscrew it at some point - if you are lucky.
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18th Sep 2018 9:16pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1568  
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You should be able to get at the back of that from the wheel arch.
Heat and vise grips - I don’t use drilling or extractors if I can avoid it. You might be able to heat it and instead of spinning it out the bodywork side bring the clean threads out the back on through the hole if that makes sense? You can also try and shock it with heat then cold water. |
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18th Sep 2018 9:55pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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my concern with using heat on that is paintwork damage.
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18th Sep 2018 10:30pm |
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