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zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Quote:
I am just hoping that somebody must have addressed the requirement to make an electronically managed engine behave more more like one with a throttle cable, where the engine does what the pedal tells it to without stupid jerking and farting around, without the thing doing nothing when you press the pedal, or taking off down the road when you haven't touched the throttle. What is essentially the same engine doesn't behave like that in a Transit or a Ford Ranger (and I've driven both), so it makes me wonder what Land Rover did to it and whether anybody has un-done that.

Taking off down the road when you haven't touched the throttle is the anti stall working (the transits and rangers do this too). If it's in gear and you lift your foot off the clutch it will do this by design. It works well in my experience.
This video shows it quite well;

The jerking about could be leaking injector washers, mine was like this when i got it, after i replaced all the injector washers it was like night and day. Thing is on the open road it actually drove quite well, it totally transformed it after i did the washers. Before you had to work the gears hard around town, it was a real effort, now i can leave it in say 2nd or 3rd and just plod about controling it with the throttle. Of course you could have a faulty throttle pedal, that'll do it too.

Part of the reason the jerkyness isn't so apparently on transits is they have a dual mass flywheel which absorbs it all, but eventually the DMF falls apart. Certainly the throttle on my 2.4 is quite responsive.

10th Dec 2017 7:18pm

BogMonster

Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 389

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey

lohr500 wrote:
Another vote for the BAS remap.

Just installed the 150 remap on my 2.2 using the remote BAS2 RRC tool.

The Defender is never going to be a sports car but the extra BHP & torque is very noticeable, particularly when accelerating between 3K and 4k RPM. Seems smoother as well at lower RPM.

And Aviva, my insurance company only wanted an extra £22.50 per annum for the modification, so no worries over invalidating the insurance.

The BAS 150 is the one I'm looking at. More power is a bit wasted with low road speeds here, and I'm primarily after driveability. Wonder if you could help with a couple of questions please?

On mine I find the low speed junctions frustrating when it regularly has 'kangaroo diesel' - does the remap help sort that out? It seems like rapid but minor pedal fluctuations need a bit more damping at low engine speeds.

What is the throttle mapping like in low range? The standard low range tune is appalling - I've got around it by unplugging the high-low sensor so it uses the high range tune all the time, but I wondered what the alternatives were like in low range off road.

zsd-puma wrote:
Taking off down the road when you haven't touched the throttle is the anti stall working (the transits and rangers do this too). If it's in gear and you lift your foot off the clutch it will do this by design. It works well in my experience.

Yeah, the anti-stall works very well. Maybe it is a side-effect of that, I hadn't really considered that. I use it quite a lot to take off in 2nd gear around town, as the 1-2 gearchange is such a miserable experience. Wondering if the BAS slickshift is worth a go, if I go ahead and order.

15th Dec 2017 10:55am

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

I have adapted my driving style in traffic, i tend to just lift my foot off the clutch and allow the vehicle to move off, then give it more throttle if i want to go faster.

1st to 2nd on mine isn't too bad, i mean sure it's not as good as a modern car but it's not bad. Somewhere between a lorry and a van really. Pull the rubber boot up and see if the nylon ball at the bottom of the gearstick is badly worn or cracked. They have a habit of doing that and it makes the gearchange bad. There was also a technical service bulletin which described installing revised locating bushes for the gear change plate on top of the gearbox. The parts are only about £3 and took less than an hour to fit.

a link to the bulletin here; http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/attach...1395836085

15th Dec 2017 11:42am

BogMonster

Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 389

Only 4500 miles on when I bought it, just passed 6000, and a very careful owner who I've known for years, so unlikely to be mechanical issues. The link doesn't work but if it's the bulletin I have seen elsewhere, I think my vehicle is late enough to have the modified bits fitted.

15th Dec 2017 4:28pm

lohr500

Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1283

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black

Hi BogMonster

Difficult to say on the kangaroo effect before and after remap, as over the years I think I have adapted my driving technique to largely get rid of it. Trouble is I can't explain how!! For sure, using 2nd gear at low RPM too soon when crawling in traffic is a problem. I find it best to sit in 1st at a higher RPM (not screaming along but at a higher RPM than if I was driving another vehicle). But I do think the remap has helped with smoothness and I seem to have less transmission clucks than before.

In low range, it seems fine but retains the accelerator sensitivity reduction which, as I understand it, is also designed to help with the kangaroo effect. But this time induced through the driver's right foot when bouncing over rough ground.

For sure though the extra BHP & torque from the remap makes the Defender much more pleasant to drive at sensible speeds with less gear changing and more acceleration when you need it.

After a week with the remap, and 300 miles of mixed country lane/motorway driving I am very pleased with it and after installing extra security, it would be the 1st thing I upgraded if I ever got another Defender.

16th Dec 2017 8:30am

Morepower

Member Since: 08 Jan 2013
Location: Fife, Scotland
Posts: 630

Having tried a BAS map (Bowler Tune) on the 110 & 90, I can highly recommend it... The low speed driveability is much improved and the extra horsepower/torque makes overtaking when you have to (slow lorries) much less fraught with 'will I make it moments'... I have also fitted the Intercooler kits, Modified the Airboxes and fitted the BAS Airbox to turbo pipes. Both the 110 & 90 have Bowler exhaust systems too...
In all it makes for a very drivable combination... Yes, you still get some kangaroo'ing in the morning when it's cold... But if you give it a minute or so to warm before setting off it doesn't seem to happen??... The 110 seems to be slightly worse than the 90 (The 90 doesn't seem to do it at all).. Maybe the extra weight???...
After this?... I might fit the BAS intercooler pipes once the original pipework starts to get baggy... Although I'd prefer to fit the Nakatenanga/Entreq (can't remember) hard pipe kit (However it's mega £££)...
Then maybe a bigger turbo kit from Pete... But this may takeaway the low speed driveability... If money was no object, Then a Bowler airbox kit would be next... But as they are making no more of these, I don't think this will happen...

Hope this helps

Regards

Tim It doesn't matter how bad it is, It can always get worse...

2013 Bowler 110 (Sold)
2016 Bowler 90 Rally Spec (Sold)

16th Dec 2017 8:48am

BogMonster

Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 389

Ta - the BAS remap shown on the site is called an "Autobiography tune" not sure what the difference to a "Bowler tune" is but I imagine the latter one is more inclined to go round corners sideways with opposite lock and gravel spitting out everywhere

I might give one a go

16th Dec 2017 10:35am

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6031

Hello Stephen.... long time not speak.... used to chat a lot with you on LR4x4 years back.

cheers

Jamie

16th Dec 2017 11:46am

lohr500

Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1283

It was the Autobiography tune I went for .
Firstly the increase to 150HP was no big issue for my mainstream insurance company Aviva.
Secondly, I didn't want the hassle of changing to a performance intercooler (which BAS recommend when going to 170BHP.)
Thirdly, I wasn't looking to turn the Defender into a sports car. Just a small boost to improve the day to day drive.

16th Dec 2017 5:17pm

Orangesofa

Member Since: 10 Oct 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 214

2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

I bought my 90 poverty spec with 1300 miles on the clock and it was a bit of a culture shock to drive - notchy gear change, sluggish performance, bone-shaking ride, noisey etc etc.

I swapped out the HD rear springs for 110 fronts and this made it less crashy, sorted the sound deadening, had an Alive 170 remap which made it so much more spritely and the torque means less gear changes and the gearbox just got easier and easier over time. It now has around 15k on the clock and the gear change is no longer notchy and doesn't fight back. I guess it has bedded-in and now I find driving the Defender a real joy but I must admit to start with I was of the 'what have I done' mindset.

Owning one of these is all about making it what you want it to be - hardcore off-roader, smooth cruiser, tart's handbag or factory standard - the choice is yours to make it what you want to serve your needs... Phil

27th Dec 2017 11:14am

TJ101

Member Since: 30 May 2007
Location: Taunton Somerset
Posts: 3747

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

Hi Stephen nice to see you

One word to vastly improve Bas,,

First time i towed with the new 110, (2015 2.2) was rubbish, no guts or go,,
Had one of the first BAS remap (150 now the 170AB), not only vastly improved that, but also the driveability, roundabouts in 3rd, much nicer drive all round California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1

Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK

27th Dec 2017 8:07pm

MartnH

Member Since: 30 Oct 2017
Location: Nsw
Posts: 28

I got the 170 rempa and some other upgrades...

and now when I go aroundabouts, I can hear tyres creaming....
anybody experience the same?? Am I driving faster or is it the car angry...

29th Dec 2017 1:27am

YOLO110

Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1633

I guess if you (tyres) are 'creaming', then you are also probably 'squealing'!

YOLO... You Only Live Once...

3rd Jan 2018 2:33pm

Naks

Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2584

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White

BAS remap
Bigger intercooler
De-cat
Slickshift

--
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged

Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

3rd Jan 2018 4:04pm

foggydave

Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 263

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Bonatti Grey

Is the remote remap just plug and play or does it require techie knowledge?

8th Jan 2018 6:01pm

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