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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 1309

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green

Amazing!! Would you mind sharing how much it cost?

Post #638597 20th Jul 2017 12:49pm
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foxing



Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: south wales
Posts: 78

Wales 

i haven't had the final bill yet
atb paul


Last edited by foxing on 27th Jul 2017 3:33pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #638637 20th Jul 2017 4:19pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 1309

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green

You know that isnt bad at all! What was the base Defender?

Post #638663 20th Jul 2017 7:33pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2061

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey

Have you done the breaks / suspension also?


that's a very good price considering a new engine / box / controller / aux kit is the best part of 12k if not more...

i dropped them a email but never got a reply. phone calls aren't the easiest for me to make currently.

Post #638686 20th Jul 2017 8:53pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales and Manchester
Posts: 4512

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Willow Green

A thing of great beauty, if you can say such things about an engine bay!

Of course you can. A Thing of great beauty

Very special, and exquisite to look at, well done. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

Post #638712 20th Jul 2017 10:40pm
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foxing



Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: south wales
Posts: 78

Wales 

bankz5152 wrote:
You know that isnt bad at all! What was the base Defender?


no not a bad price considering what the rest of the installers want,the defender is a 2003 td5 i had rebuilt 2 years ago
atb paul

Post #638727 21st Jul 2017 5:21am
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foxing



Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: south wales
Posts: 78

Wales 

Likeomg wrote:
Have you done the breaks / suspension also?


that's a very good price considering a new engine / box / controller / aux kit is the best part of 12k if not more...

i dropped them a email but never got a reply. phone calls aren't the easiest for me to make currently.


the breaks and suspension have been done previously,as to contacting them try this email tim@milneroffroad.com
atb paul

Post #638728 21st Jul 2017 5:28am
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 5491

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey

Ooh best getting saving I think, could be a retirement present 😎

I guess from base vehicle to LS3 monster 👾 with brakes and suspension etc you'd be looking at 30-35k? James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers

Post #638733 21st Jul 2017 7:10am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Surrey
Posts: 601

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

Forgive me but why bother with brake upgrades? I'm not saying it's a bad thing but...

From a quick Google the LS3 is in the same ball park weight wise as a Tdi lump. Admittedly I don't know about the gearbox side of things. So your not changing the weight of the vehicle much and on boggo brakes I can lock up all four wheels on dry tarmac on mine on road tyres, AT and MT tyres. So brakes aren't the limiting factor.

Admittedly if I had an LS3 I'd be hooning it more often and I'd be thinking about brake temperature which might warrant the upgrade. Ed
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
96 P38 4.6 HSE

Post #638775 21st Jul 2017 12:54pm
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VVS210



Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 589

United Kingdom 

So you have answered your own question really.

If the vehicle is the same mass but travelling faster, i.e. 200Tdi top end, say, 60mph vs. LS3 top end, say, 70mph the energy (momentum) the vehicle has at the top end is considerably higher and hence the effort required to stop it will be higher too.

So, in order to stop in the same time/distance a greater braking effort is required which means bigger brake discs. Alternatively you could accept that it will take longer to slow down with the standard brakes but that could be a bit eye watering if you end up running 35k of Defender and LS3 into the back of an artic in a motorway queue... Whistle

Post #638780 21st Jul 2017 1:21pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Surrey
Posts: 601

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

Ah but momentum is dependent on velocity and we all know the maximum velocity in the UK is 70mph... Rolling Eyes Ed
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
96 P38 4.6 HSE

Post #638782 21st Jul 2017 1:26pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Surrey
Posts: 601

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

And I can assure those skeptical but a Tdi is perfectly capable of 70mph. Mines quite pleasant at 70mph. Won't get there as fast but will comfortably hit it. Ed
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
96 P38 4.6 HSE

Post #638783 21st Jul 2017 1:27pm
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VVS210



Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 589

United Kingdom 

OK, let me rephrase that...

It will take longer for you to stop or slow down to take that tight corner when you are "hooning" around on a nice country A road in an LS3 powered 90 because you can get it to go faster quicker than you can with a 200Tdi on the same nice twisty road.

However you want to look at it, if you can make it go quicker you need to make it stop quicker Thumbs Up

Post #638788 21st Jul 2017 1:41pm
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 883

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red

I have Range Rover callipers on the front of mine (vented, twin circuit) and standard on the rear. The limiting factor to braking on mine is the tyres not the brakes, both in dry and wet conditions on tarmac. Depends a lot on which tyres you're running and their size.

Just make sure tat the rears always lock first, seen a few people put monstrous disks and callipers on the front end and as soon as you dab the brakes the front end slides. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

Post #638804 21st Jul 2017 3:27pm
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VVS210



Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 589

United Kingdom 

"Just make sure tat the rears always lock first, seen a few people put monstrous disks and callipers on the front end and as soon as you dab the brakes the front end slides."


Shocked Shocked Shocked


Locking the rear brakes is the last thing that you want to do as it makes the car fishtale and can potentially put you into a spin and roll over if travelling at speed!

Post #638805 21st Jul 2017 3:36pm
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