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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1091

England 
Renewing windscreen and alpine/rear window seals...
My 52 plate TD5 CSW is leaking through the perished alpine windows in the roof, as well as the rear quarter windows. The windscreen surround is bubbling and the windscreen needs to come out to rectify.

I'm quite happy to do the work myself, and will use the drawstring method widely described on various websites. I will be using genuine parts for the new seals.

My question is, what additional sealant compounds do people recommend? I don't think LR used any additional sealant when it was new, hence the reason why most of them leak perhaps? However, all the methods I have seen use copious amounts of washing up liquid or Vaseline which surely would compromise any sealant used? Also, it could be very messy using beads of silicone/sikaflex when fitting. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #630903 12th Jun 2017 9:22pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Don't bother with washing up liquid as its not needed if you take your time. Also use none setting windscreen sealer, just pop into your local car window fitter and buy a tube off them. It is messy so have lots of cleaning gear to hand when doing the job. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #630910 12th Jun 2017 9:38pm
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Romadog



Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: Powys
Posts: 1749

Just get a local independant to come and fit them. They have the gear and its what they do everyday. All they ask is for good quality seals.
Far cheaper than sweating over it yourself.
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Post #630913 12th Jun 2017 9:44pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
The rear quarter windows have the tube in the rubbers on the inside. I believe the alpine lights have that too.

They are very easy to change and if the aluminium is in good condition you don't need additional sealant.

To the persons that say don't do it yourself I would say: If you can't do this don't drive a Defender use public transport. Mr. Green Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #630959 13th Jun 2017 7:05am
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2683

United Kingdom 
I fitted a new screen/surround in my 110.

My advice is this. Forget washing up liquid etc just wait until you actually start to cry with frustration trying to get the screen in, and then use your tears as a lubricant....it works well.

Although be sure to wash them off when you have finished as tears have salt in them and it may promote corrosion.
Post #631013 13th Jun 2017 9:36am
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10378

United Kingdom 
If you're using new rubbers, you wont need any sealant in theory. The string tecnique won't work for your alpine lights. You need a filler trim tool to fit them.


My thoughts are: get an independant one man band windscreen company (not Autoglass) to fit them for you, no hassle.

For sealant, use Arbomast https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/arbomast-a...eens.html/
Post #631022 13th Jun 2017 11:13am
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10378

United Kingdom 
Or if you fancy a trip south, I can fit them Thumbs Up
Post #631023 13th Jun 2017 11:14am
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ginjez



Member Since: 18 Sep 2011
Location: huddersfield
Posts: 1759

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 ST Santorini Black
Is that offer open to anyone Whistle Pie payment Laughing
Post #631031 13th Jun 2017 11:33am
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 

Click image to enlarge

hi.
Just tried my luck at changing the windscreen seal yesterday. Good 6 hours of fettling about ;( but i am not aware of any screen fitters on the island where i live. i followed some of these steps (i cut the lip of the seal from inside to remove)

https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/10238-defen...placement/

I know the screen is not perfectly square/rectangular but is the seal manufactured to compensate that or it is just a big loop? The joint on the seal ended up at the top centre of screen as opposed the lower centre in the case of the perished one Sad i am kind of worried. Once the seal was on the glass it was a bit loose on some areas (but from experience in the aluminuim profile industry rubber seals tend to shrink across time - and it is very sunny here in malta.)

Some concerns: Can the filaments of the heated screen be pourous and draw up water? I had a hard time putting seal on the glass while on the table. and applied water and soap Sad when installed i noticed a foggy part (about 1cm in height acros some part of the lower side). See Photo.

Another concern is once ready i pressed a bit around the edges to see if the screen is properly seated. on the upright sections the screen is solid in its place but at the bottom it can shift inward and outward a few mms is that normal? at some point while doing this i heard a faint crackling sound ;( ....

Comments?
joseph
Post #636335 8th Jul 2017 4:14am
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