 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Engine help from the Highlands of Papua New Guinea |
 
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| Neem Member Since: 18 May 2021 Location: Aiyura EHP Papua New Guinea Posts: 6   
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I think I have this vehicle in my shop at the moment. The head was replaced pistons replaced and it still would not run. Now I'm trying to get this thing running and it only runs for about 5 seconds and then dies. I have replaced the VCV on it and it finally started and ran well, I shut it down and let it cool. Now I can't get it to start again.
I am also very skeptical of the work done on it. Fuel lines twisted around each other, loose hoses and missing mounts and heat shields etc. Some ideas would be helpful. |
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4th Aug 2021 3:03am |
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| Neem Member Since: 18 May 2021 Location: Aiyura EHP Papua New Guinea Posts: 6
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My profile says Australia, but I'm actually in the Highlands of Papua New Guinea. I did not see PNG as an option when setting it up.
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4th Aug 2021 3:05am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3184  
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Have you tried to read and reset the error codes.
I had once on my 2.2, after some work on the output shaft (transfer case removed), that the Defender started right up, but 2 mins into the test drive it died (while on the move). I pulled to the side, and it fired right away again, only to die about 30 seconds later... and could not start again. I checked all the grounds, cables, etc.... all was fine. Checked all the fuses, all were fine. A day or 2 later, I read the codes, and there was quite a long list. Cleared the codes, and it fired right away, and never a problem 1 year later. I used a cheap obd reader, and error codes cleared through my phone, nothing elaborate. Thread on my issue here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic73565.html Perhaps it can shed some light. Only thing that I had done wrong was disconnecting the battery before dis alarming the battery backup sounder. I did not know that you have 15 seconds (or so) to disconnect the battery after switching off the ignition. I had connected the battery to silence the alarm, and possibly confused the ECU.... I still do not know, just my guess. But was very strange, as the battery was then disconnected for about a month until I could get the parts and do all the work. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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4th Aug 2021 6:45am |
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| Neem Member Since: 18 May 2021 Location: Aiyura EHP Papua New Guinea Posts: 6
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Thank for replying Dinnu,
I have a Bear Mach tester I've been using and have cleared code multiple times (tried disconnecting MAF sensor etc trying to determine if they were faulty) I'm a Honda tech and have little drive-ability diagnosis experience on common rail diesels. I've spent hours researching this thing. I just did a compression test and am now wondering if excess diesel may have washed down the cylinders, glazing them. I started with 265-330 psi and after a wet test (which did increase the numbers a lot) I checked a third time which was more respectable, though with quite a difference between the lowest and the highest at about 75psi. My concern is that this thing was rebuilt with a new head and pistons etc. Might it need to run to smarten up the compression numbers. I also noticed the EGR O-ring at the intake was not sitting correctly, so may have been sucking air. The EGR valve itself won't move so possibly stuck, not sure. I will have to investigate that. |
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6th Aug 2021 5:36am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3184
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What I always hear is that the tdci do not like getting rebuilt!
I am not a common rail diesel expert by far.. but I would start with timing. Check also the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor. Both are crucial to start up the engine. Do you know why the pistons were replaced? Cracked, holed? Strange that you say that the engine ran for a while after it was rebuilt and then does not want to know anymore.. could the original cause of the first failure still be present? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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6th Aug 2021 6:13am |
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| Neem Member Since: 18 May 2021 Location: Aiyura EHP Papua New Guinea Posts: 6
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So I tested the compression and it was acceptable enough not to warrant what I was experiencing. While the intake was off, I checked the EGR...It was nasty. The carbon build-up almost completely blocked the passage, but it was extremely soft and had water in it. I'm not sure if maybe the original overheating issue was a bad head-gasket or cracked head that flooded the EGR and so had softened the carbon. I removed the EGR valve and the cooler at the back of the engine. I also watched a few videos and read up on this forum about possible issues and eliminating the EGR. I talked to the customer to find out if he wanted me to block the port altogether and he did so I made up a couple plates and reinstalled everything eliminating the cooler lines at the same time. I freed up the EGR valve while cleaning it in case the EGR valve would trigger a code if it was stuck open a bit and not able to close it.
Once back together it started right up without any hesitation. It reached full operational temperature and cooled down, and starts no problem now. The problem that is current now is the lack of RPM. I'm not sure if it's gone to limp mode because it has an EGR code or the new VCV valve is not right. It spews whitish smoke out the back showing it's not burning properly and won't rev past 2500. I can drive it only if I shift at 2000RPM. Does anyone know if an EGR code would put it into limp mode? |
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27th Aug 2021 6:50am |
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| Neem Member Since: 18 May 2021 Location: Aiyura EHP Papua New Guinea Posts: 6
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OK, so your forum has helped me a lot! Thank you to all you Land Rover guys who know these things. I learned a lot!
It was throwing a P0404 code which seems to be when the EGR valve is hanging up. I found that when I reinstalled the motor, it wasn't sitting in the linkage properly so I pulled the lower plastic cover off and loosened the motor off. I turned the key on and situated the actuator into the linkage then tightened everything back up and reinstalled the lower plastic cover. It now doesn't present any codes and revs up properly. The exhaust is a bit nasty still, but I'll see if that clears up any after driving it for some time. |
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27th Aug 2021 8:23am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1734 
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Glad you got it up and running, reading from the beginning it’s been a long journey.
Yes a P0404 EGR code will cause limp mode, a check engine light (yellow pic of engine) will come up. I’m assuming that this 2.2 is a specification that does not have a DPF fitted. With the 2.2 I think it’s worth talking to bell auto services as I think a map is required on the UK and EU versions if an EGR is being bypassed. Now this may be because we have a DPF fitted, and you will likely not have one. But it may be the cause of your “nasty exhaust” emissions issue. https://bellautoservices.co.uk/ |
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27th Aug 2021 9:15am |
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| Julie Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: Nantes Posts: 421  
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Better get your car to somebody, who is capable of detecting the fault(s) and repair it / have it repaired subsequently. The replacement of a head gasket on suspicion of defect sounds really weird ... |
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27th Aug 2021 8:23pm |
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| Julie Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: Nantes Posts: 421
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Did thé defective EGR shoot thé turbo ? And now it's leaking oil ? |
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27th Aug 2021 8:32pm |
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| Neem Member Since: 18 May 2021 Location: Aiyura EHP Papua New Guinea Posts: 6
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This vehicle doesn't have a pressure differential sensor.
As for the turbo, it sounds fine and seems to work well. There is an oil leak, but I think it's the oil return tube that is cracked. It was handled very roughly...like a lot of things on this engine. I may have to replace the crank position sensor bracket as it is broken and I just cleared a set of codes that might be related to that. I am not too sure how to replace that bracket to have it lined up where it should be. If someone has anything to offer on that I would be grateful. As I said Canada has no Honda that has anything like this and all the other common rail diesel's here haven't given us too much grief. This experience may have given me a leg up on it so to speak for when they do. As for finding a shop here to look after it, Papua New Guinea is where we are, so I feel I should try to take things into my own hands. Land Rover has it's own special way of doing things as well. These units were sold only for a few years, but I don't see nearly as many now and haven't seen any at the dealership for sale. I think experience is limited. I am the cheapest option as well at the moment. I'm getting close now that the worst part is taken care of. |
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30th Aug 2021 4:30am |
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