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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
Changing rear ARB on a 110. Any tips.
I have changed the standard springs on my 110 for the Alive softer springs. I did purchase the Alive rear ARB and bushes at the same time as springs but due to the cold weather I didn't get round to fitting it.
Now that we have some warm weather I am thinks of fitting the anti roll bar and the linkages , the original linkages are so rusted I believe it will be easier just to change the whole lot.

I was wondering if anyone had any tips to share before I make a start. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #615315 8th Apr 2017 10:41am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
The tapers aren't too bad at all, no need for any special and spendy LRTs !

However, if yours are corroded as you say sometimes removing the castellated nut can be a pain, especially if remnants of the split pin are getting involved - in this case I just ripped through the rubber boots and mole gripped straight on to the shaft to stop it spinning. As you're getting new ones you can afford to do this. Other solutions too...

Speaking of what you may nor may not be able to afford, there is no need to get 'genuine' if you can otherwise source Lemforder branded ones, which I think Bearmach maybe supplies (maybe). Sometimes these don't come with the associated castellated nuts and pins though, which is a pain, but at least they are quality units and not cast out of a mix of iron and Weet-Bix Rolling Eyes

Wee bit awkward under there, but dead simple really - easier than the front, Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #615319 8th Apr 2017 11:38am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6199

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
It's just a simple nut and bolt job. Just make sure the vehicle is parked on a flat level surface otherwise you'll be fighting to "twist" the AR bar into place.
Post #615320 8th Apr 2017 11:39am
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
Thanks for the replies, level ah right that mean packers under the axel stands. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #615400 8th Apr 2017 7:14pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20923

United Kingdom 
Pretty sure you can change without using any axle stands....
Just park flat and in gear with wheels chocked securely in place.

Soak fixings in WD40 the day before removing, that will make things much more easier ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ\____
_//*β›½οΈπŸ›’οΈβš™οΈπŸ§°*\\_
Post #615407 8th Apr 2017 7:34pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17890

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I fitted both ARBs to mine without jacking it up at all, so unless you're on the portly side you shouldn't need to.
Post #615435 8th Apr 2017 10:24pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20923

United Kingdom 
A damn site safer too imho. Thumbs Up ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ\____
_//*β›½οΈπŸ›’οΈβš™οΈπŸ§°*\\_
Post #615436 8th Apr 2017 10:34pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17890

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I also, for that matter, removed the gearbox and changed the clutch without jacking it up, a delightful job which I need to repeat soon since 60k miles have now passed.
Post #615439 8th Apr 2017 10:58pm
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
Thank you for all the advice.

Rear ARB now changed took 3 hours on the drive.

I needed the extra room underneath, no I not fat , just didn't fancy my nose scraping the fuel tank, so I made out of scrap fence posts and other timber I had lying around two large chocks that would sit under the rear wheels giving me 9" extra room underneath.

It was a good job I decided to change the lot as the rubber on one of the ball joints had split allowing the inside to corrode, the rubber cones on the drop links had worn oval. Oh and the split pins well the tails turned to dust as soon as the pliers got anywhere near. It is amazing how fast things come apart with a rattle gun. The worst part was taking the 10mm bolts out of the clamps that hold the bushes in place 3/4 " of rusted threads, bolts have 10 mm A/F head and the nuts are 14mm A/F. I used a Dremel to cut off the rusted threads and it all fell apart. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #615540 9th Apr 2017 4:52pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20923

United Kingdom 
They do take a lot of punishment. Thumbs Up

I have some bushes ready to go on I bought from last year, but they aren't too bad a condition at the moment anyway on mine.
The drop links themselves are surprisingly expensive, so a good job you caught the bushes when you did. ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ\____
_//*β›½οΈπŸ›’οΈβš™οΈπŸ§°*\\_
Post #615543 9th Apr 2017 4:58pm
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
The rubber cones on mine looked alright until I took the bolt out. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #615546 9th Apr 2017 5:13pm
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