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Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 49

Starter motor not disengaging then burning out

I have 2004 Defender 110 TD5 which is great except that it eats starter motors! I've had 3 in about 10 months and they're fine for a while then the symptoms of impending failure reappear. After the glow plug light goes out I try and start the engine but it sounds like it's trying to fire on one cylinder! I immediately turn the key back to the to the "0" position. It then starts fine on the second attempt. Also, on some occasions it will start quite normally without the chug, chug sounds effects. What's seems to happen though is that the poor old starter motor eventually decides its had enough of the rough starts and will do nothing when I turn the key. The net result is a burnt out starter motor.

My garage think the starter motors aren't disengaging properly and burn out. I'm stumped but am no mechanic. Does anyone have any ideas what might be going wrong?

Thanks

3rd Jan 2017 8:03pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8341

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

faulty ign switch? Cheers

James
110 2010 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

3rd Jan 2017 8:16pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8341

is the solenoid or the sm burning out? Cheers

James
110 2010 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

3rd Jan 2017 8:17pm

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 49

According to my garage man he said the solenoid remained engaged after the key was turned back to the "0" position. The only theory is that there was some sort of short in the starter.

3rd Jan 2017 9:40pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Click image to enlarge

3rd Jan 2017 9:56pm

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 49

Hi Dorsetsmith. Are you suggesting I should change the starter switch and relay?

3rd Jan 2017 10:50pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17877

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Titan133 wrote:
According to my garage man he said the solenoid remained engaged after the key was turned back to the "0" position. The only theory is that there was some sort of short in the starter.

A short in the starter would not have this effect. If the solenoid is remaining energised after the key is released it will be a faulty solenoid, relay, or a faulty switch, with the latter being most likely.

There is a reason why Lucas was known as the Prince of Darkness"!

3rd Jan 2017 11:31pm

Baz8046

Member Since: 08 Feb 2016
Location: Chatham
Posts: 83

I would definitely change the starter relay as they are not expensive.
The relay is in the row under the main fuse box.
Ignition switches can also play up so would be worth checking. Defender Td5 Commercial 2002
Range Rover L322 TDV8 Westminster 2012
Discovery 4 SDV6 Landmark 2016

3rd Jan 2017 11:35pm

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 49

Thank you. You have to start somewhere so they look good choices to start.

3rd Jan 2017 11:52pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Sorry of leaving mid post but i got call out

i had problem with starter relay that failed closed

4th Jan 2017 1:11am

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 49

Thought I'd have a look under the drivers seat to see if anything was untoward and spotted a healthy oil slick! Where can all of this oil be coming from and why would it end up with the electrical stuff? Is this related to my starting problem or a completely separate problem? (Photo attached)

Click image to enlarge

4th Jan 2017 9:38pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

leave the engine though injector loom and plug travel down in the wiring to the ECU
be good idea to change out the injector and check ECU red plug oil too

4th Jan 2017 9:49pm

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3262

As said, oil is getting to the ECU under the seat from a faulty injector harness.
lt's easy to change and could be the cause of your poor stsrting.
The part only costs under £30.

Note that after you change the harness, it can take a few weeks for the oil to stop coming out of the red plug under the seat.

Take the rubber seal out of the red plug, then at least the oil will run out instead of into the ECU.

4th Jan 2017 9:59pm

Baz8046

Member Since: 08 Feb 2016
Location: Chatham
Posts: 83

It's a very common fault unfortunately.
The oil travels back down the injector loom all the way back to the ecu.
The fix is to change the injector loom which is straight forward and not too expensive.
Mine looked exactly the same as yours when I bought it.
I cleaned the box out, changed the loom and it's been fine since. Defender Td5 Commercial 2002
Range Rover L322 TDV8 Westminster 2012
Discovery 4 SDV6 Landmark 2016

4th Jan 2017 10:03pm

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 49

You guys are just brilliant. Thanks so much for your help.

4th Jan 2017 10:06pm

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