 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma has died....electrical fault. |
 
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2571  
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How wet did it get? Where did the water get to?
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31st Jul 2016 11:19am |
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| Huttopia Member Since: 23 Feb 2016 Location: West Midlands Posts: 1969 
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A bit wet? How far did you back into the water?
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31st Jul 2016 11:21am |
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| Davie L Member Since: 04 Sep 2014 Location: Glasgow Posts: 95 
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Ok....
It was stuck in the sand, sitting at a angle back end down water just got in the boot and into the foot wells. There was some water in the drivers seat box. Davie |
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31st Jul 2016 11:24am |
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 16 Nov 2014 Location: Dundee Posts: 531 
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Didn't realise it got as far as the seat box...
Still, unplug the trailer wiring socket, and see how it goes Failing that, there are various relays etc under the seat box... |
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31st Jul 2016 1:36pm |
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| Davie L Member Since: 04 Sep 2014 Location: Glasgow Posts: 95
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Can anyone tell me where i can purchase the relays and holders that are under the drivers seat?
Im going to replace these first. Davie |
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1st Aug 2016 3:30pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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Have you read the fault codes yet?
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1st Aug 2016 6:53pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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No harm in spraying some water dispersion product on the parts you're prepared to swap out first?
WD-40 and a blast or two of thoughtfully placed compressed air ? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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1st Aug 2016 7:51pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16978 
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Fresh water or salt?
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1st Aug 2016 9:00pm |
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| Davie L Member Since: 04 Sep 2014 Location: Glasgow Posts: 95
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Salt water hence the reason i want to change the relays and holders.
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1st Aug 2016 9:07pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16978
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Oh dear!
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1st Aug 2016 9:20pm |
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| xpertoftheseas Member Since: 05 Jan 2016 Location: Salisbury, Wilts Posts: 164 
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Start with the visible faults and work back.
Temp gauge to red line, lumpy running. Rear of Defender was submerged. CHECK, wiring loom to fuel tank and therefore fuel pump. There are two connectors on this loom to the tank. Split them apart - wash with fresh water (yes water, distilled if possible) and shake to dry. Leave for 30 mins. Spray WD40 or any water disperser into both ends of connectors (use liberally). Shake to dry and leave for further 30 mins. While you are there - check all the cabling to the rear lights. Temperature gauge fault points to an error on the ECU, but most likely associated cabling which is under the drivers seat. If the fog light is on this also points to a cabling issues here. If you had water in the foot wells then for sure you had water under the drivers and passenger seat. Disconnect the battery! Remove both seats and get in and disconnect and remove the modules. Use FRESH WATER liberally (hose if the compartments were flooded) and towel dry as much as you can. Spray WD40 or other water disperser into every connector and shake as much as possible. On the modules themselves, do not use water but wash with WD40 in side the connectors particularly. Get a 100w light bulb with fitting, and place inside the compartment and leave over night. Insulate the top of the compartment with a non-combustible item to keep the heat in. Keep all cables and connectors away from contacting the bulb. The heat will expel any moisture remaining in the box and is the only way of getting any water out of the connectors. Remove every fuse and relay and go to town with a spray bottle filled with distilled (if possible) water. Then follow on with the WD40 or other. Same thing here with the light bulb. The reason for using water is to drive out the sodium and chlorides that will remain. Seawater is more dense than fresh water so using fresh water will naturally drive the sodium and chlorides out as you wash the components. Distilled water increases this effect as also will leave no residue behind and is non conductive (this helps a lot). Sea water by comparison is very conductive. Spend a lot of time ensuring everything is dry. If you used distilled water then as long as you have got enough heat into the cabling, connectors and looms, there will be no issue with low resistance insulation - but everything must be dry! After about 12 hours you will clearly see any sea water residue (if you cant see it then use your finger to feel for the residue. WD40 is your friend here. I work with cruise ships and used to work on board as a Electrical Engineer. I have had my fair share of faults caused by sea water ingress. I will take a look at the drawings tomorrow just to be sure nothing is missed or obvious with the temp gauge etc. Let us know how you get on. Good luck. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender. |
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2nd Aug 2016 12:41am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Good tips.
Patience is key... Compressed air can speed things up but can beware it's just as good at blowing moisture out of spots as it can be blowng it in. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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2nd Aug 2016 12:50am |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10367
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@xpertoftheseas ..... Great post, kudos.
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2nd Aug 2016 6:45am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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xpertoftheseas: it's a 2008 Puma so no fuel lift pump. Temperature gauge often caused by dodgy relay or earth connections too.
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2nd Aug 2016 7:39am |
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