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PDA68



Member Since: 08 Jun 2025
Location: North West
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Same Issue 2007 Puma
Hi, i have the very same issue, when you say you installed a shunt, could you please provide me with a little more detail as to what and where you shunted out.. like yours, mine has no fob or alarm system in place and when it does decide to start it fire up quickly and first time, ..
Thanks



4wd-junky wrote:
The day I have been waiting on has arrived ......... puma refused to start today, same as before cranked for a few seconds then stopped.

Installed the shunt and it started first time, removed the shunt and it wouldn't start as above.

Just now need to decide what the final fix is.
Post #1069300 8th Jun 2025 1:58pm
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PDA68



Member Since: 08 Jun 2025
Location: North West
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Ignore last message, i carried on reading the rest of the pages and found the recommendation re link 3 & 4.. i'll give that a go first!!
Thanks
Post #1069302 8th Jun 2025 2:26pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2549

United Kingdom 
See his topic as well , I added som pics of the connector which may help https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic87276...+connector
Post #1069303 8th Jun 2025 2:28pm
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PDA68



Member Since: 08 Jun 2025
Location: North West
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Thumbs Up Thanks Ianh
Post #1069304 8th Jun 2025 2:31pm
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stewalex1984



Member Since: 06 Mar 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 10

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Hi Martin,

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but pleased to say I benefited of the knowledge on linking out pins 3 and 4.

I wondered if you still are able to repair the dash clusters? If so, could you send me the details?

Thanks

Martin wrote:
If the rpm needle moves during cranking it probably isn’t the crank sensor.

The "shunt" is actually a bypass of the wiring of the immobiliser comms link through the instrument pack.

Land Rover did this themselves when the 2.2 was introduced.

You need to access the instrument pack connector, remove it and make a temporary link between pins 3 and 4 with the likes of a straightened out plain metal paper clip.

If it now fires, your problem is the immobiliser link and you have two options:

Send the instrument pack for repair of the soldering of the socket to the PCB (I can do this for you through my business) - or do it yourself if capable Smile

Alternatively dismantle the connector and remove pins 3 and 4 (light green and grey wires to both) and join them permanently. Or if you like, cut the light green and grey wires where they enter the connector and join the loom sides together permanently, bypassing the cluster.

This makes the comms link between the 10AS alarm/immobiliser and the ECU a single wire without the instrument pack in the circuit (as per the 2.2).

The instrument pack will now log a fault if diagnosed as it does not see an incoming signal from the immobiliser, but this does not affect the instrument pack or vehicle operation whatsoever.

Also I feel this is NOT a security issue as the immobiliser itself is not bypassed, and this factory design of "in and out" wiring via the instrument pack only means that the engine won’t start if the instrument pack is missing.

However a missing instrument pack would be no problem for a thief as bridging 3 and 4 (on the now easily accessible connector) restores the link, which is clear from the wiring diagrams.

I fixed a 2010MY basic spec Puma with this issue last week. It would crank, and the RPM needle moved, but an signal tester showed the ECU wasn’t firing the injectors at all. Bridging 3 and 4 allowed it to start straight away Cool
Post #1078554 28th Oct 2025 12:07pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2549

United Kingdom 
Best to PM Martin or mail him at his business shop@fnltd.co.uk
Post #1078555 28th Oct 2025 12:12pm
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