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Mr.Boots



Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Wicklow
Posts: 15

Ireland 
Diff lock
Got a bit stuck in the snow today so after a bit of going foreword and backwords trying to free it i decided to try Diff lock (first time) light came on the dash but it didnt seem to help the situation at all, front wheel still spinning and the rear doing nothing....is it shaged?
Ive never used it before so i thought i might be doing something wrong.
Post #47373 4th Dec 2010 5:08am
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110SEB



Member Since: 29 Jan 2009
Location: Essex, England
Posts: 1444

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
It's best to use before you get stuck. It fuses the front wheels together and the rear wheels together, but not the front and back together, if you see what I mean Neutral If you know you're going to be driving on something that you know will offer very little traction then you're better off with difflock on, but remove it as soon as you're on solid ground as the two pairs of wheels will not necessarily spin at the same rate (when turning for example) and may cause damage.

Difflock may not always switch off immediately, so try reverse a little and then forward to release it. In reality in icy snow try difflock and low range 2nd and your Defender should just march through. Things are always much harder once you're stuck.

Hope this helps but I know there'll be much more advice on it's way...
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Post #47380 4th Dec 2010 9:34am
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alantd



Member Since: 14 Dec 2008
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 1513

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
110SEB wrote:
It's best to use before you get stuck. It fuses the front wheels together and the rear wheels together, but not the front and back together, if you see what I mean....


Eh? CDL fuses front and rear prop shaft. Front and rear DIFFs get the same torque. However, left and right front are still independent and left and right rear are still independent which is why you can end up cross-axle'd and going nowhere (which traction control tries to remedy).

Seb - I don't for 1 minute question whether you know how CDL works but I think your explanation was a bit confusing Wink One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition
Post #47652 6th Dec 2010 11:53pm
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yaho



Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: Bialystok
Posts: 200

Poland 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
From your experience guys, is front diff lock enough? Or shall I go for both - front and rear.
I am preparing the vehicle for overland expedition - sand and mud expected. Janusz
www.yahodeville.com
Post #47674 7th Dec 2010 10:10am
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alantd



Member Since: 14 Dec 2008
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 1513

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
yaho wrote:
From your experience guys, is front diff lock enough? Or shall I go for both - front and rear.
I am preparing the vehicle for overland expedition - sand and mud expected.

You should be OK with just the centre lock (I assume your 2007 PUMA has traction control) but if you want to spec it up, generally a rear locker is the way to do it. A front locker will seriously hinder your ability to steer.

The main thing to do is to ensure your half shafts are up to it. If you're feeling like belt and braces, upgrade the front diff as well to cope with the extra torque you'll be putting through it. One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition
Post #47676 7th Dec 2010 10:18am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2605

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Re: Diff lock
Mr.Boots wrote:
t i decided to try Diff lock (first time) light came on the dash but it didnt seem to help the situation at all, front wheel still spinning and the rear doing nothing....is it shaged?


if your CDL is engaged, the front and back wheels should be rotating at the same speed.
Post #47699 7th Dec 2010 1:23pm
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DefenderOfTheEarth



Member Since: 09 Nov 2010
Location: Cornwall, UK
Posts: 1304

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Diff lock should make a BIG difference to grip.

Got stuck in a field (icy "ramp" down to it) two weeks ago - no way it would get out without difflock (unless I took a big run up - which wasn't possible). With difflock I got out the 2nd time. Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion.
Post #47700 7th Dec 2010 1:28pm
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Zinke



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 670

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
In theory, with out the centre diff locked all the engine power can go to just 1 wheel (1 wheel drive), with it locked then the power has to go to at least 2 wheels (2 wheel drive).

If you then put a rear locker in the rear diff you then get full power to at least 3 wheels. Its only when you lock all 3 diffs in the transmission that you get get true 4 wheel drive.

This is all in theory, in the real world it very rarely works like that and unless your are cross axled or on pure flat ice up a hill then forward momentum is normally not lost, as long as you use the centre diff lock to provide 50% power to the front and 50% power to the rear.

Pete.
Post #47702 7th Dec 2010 1:54pm
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SteveS



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: Devon & Berkshire
Posts: 388

England 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Yes having just a CDL on means you can put all the power through 1 front and 1 rear wheel - both of which will spin nicely. There's plenty of threads on here with descriptions of operation

Just to support what others have said I spent much of the weekend on sheet ice, often on hills up to 1 in 4 here in Dartmoor using just the CDL. Had the front and rear ARB lockers primed ready to go but with a bit momentum, a modicom of slip I only had to use the rear locker once.

BFG 285/75 MT's did well considering the main problem was ice not snow
Post #47770 7th Dec 2010 10:20pm
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