 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Replacing Break Fluid |
 
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| CapeLandy Member Since: 21 Jul 2008 Location: Cape Town Posts: 558  
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I need to change the break fluid as it's looking pretty off colour after nearly 3 years and is a little low and triggering the lamp.
I would rather not top up as I don't know what she came out with in the factory so now is a good time to replace. I see in the manual that break bleeding etc is explained very simply and does not give an actual step by step procedure as in the older cars where you start furthest from the reservoir and work your way forward. Should I open all bleed screws and just let all the fluid out at one time and then start with a quick flush out with new fluid and then start bleeding from furthest to closest bleed nipple? I don't have access to any power bleeding equipment. Does the ABS fluid also need looking at or is that system not supposed to be changed? Thanks |
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17th Nov 2010 6:59am |
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| dm_td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2008 Location: Arnhem Land Posts: 609  
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17th Nov 2010 10:30am |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266  
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as Derek said 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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17th Nov 2010 11:11am |
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| CapeLandy Member Since: 21 Jul 2008 Location: Cape Town Posts: 558
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Thanks
But does this meen you add the new fluid on top of old and just bleed out the old or can I drain out the old fluid first so I don't contaminate the new fluid? Can't make out from your reply which way to go. Thanks James |
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17th Nov 2010 11:50am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892 
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Add the new fluid to the old and keep bleeding (and topping up) until it runs clear. If you want to be really thoroguh you can then repeat the whole process as a flush. If you keep a rough idea of how much fluid you pump out at each wheel during the initial process and pump out roughly the same during the second, you will know that you have done a very thorough job.
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17th Nov 2010 12:12pm |
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| dm_td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2008 Location: Arnhem Land Posts: 609
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Sorry should have been more clear. Definitely a two person job.
I bleed a friends 130 the other week on the side of the road after a broken brake line (no fluid to the rear brakes or left in the reservoir) and we got away with 500mL of fluid but normally allow for 1L. Did find out a Defender stops just as well with 3 working disks as it does with 4  The back left line had broken, couldn't be repaired and so I blocked off that side of the t-piece above the diff with a bolt. 110 2.4TDCi
110 300Tdi 
LROCV ::: AULRO.com |
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17th Nov 2010 12:36pm |
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| CapeLandy Member Since: 21 Jul 2008 Location: Cape Town Posts: 558
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I took a day off work to do the job as I never get weekends off.
Anyway, I was thinking aloud as to how I would go about the job without causing and airlock but also getting rid of the gunky fluid in the reservoir, when the wife pops in her head. "why don't you take one of my syringes and suck out all the crappy fluid up to the bottom of the reservoir and then fill with new so you don't mix too much dirty fluid with clean and don't get air in either?" We should really ask our better halves more often as they look at problems from a completely different perspective and come up with brilliant ideas. Worked a treat and no air in the system |
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24th Nov 2010 3:04pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266
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sorry James, you've lost me,you drew the fluid out of the reservoir then topped it up? 2.4 90 XS 1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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24th Nov 2010 3:38pm |
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| CapeLandy Member Since: 21 Jul 2008 Location: Cape Town Posts: 558
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Yep - sucked it right to the bottom of the reservoir (both chambers) using a thin hose on the end of a syringe.
There was only a slight bit in the bottom thus still keeping a head of fluid on the master cylinder but most of the nasty fluid gone and clean fluid on top - therefore no air in the system. Bled the lines after that to get rid of the remaining rubbish. 0.75 liter in total used |
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24th Nov 2010 8:11pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2266  
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Is it DOT 4 or 5?
 Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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24th Nov 2010 11:15pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266
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but surely the dirty fluid other than what was in the res will still be the rest of the system James 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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25th Nov 2010 9:18am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2266
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Brake System - General Information - Brake System Bleeding
General Procedures WARNING: Do not allow brake fluid to come into contact with eyes or skin. CAUTIONS: Brake fluid can damage paintwork, if spilled wash off immediately with plenty of clean water. Use only correct grade of brake fluid. If an assembly fluid is required use ONLY brake fluid. Do NOT use mineral oil, i.e. engine oil etc. Thoroughly clean all brake calipers, pipes and fittings before commencing work on any part of the brake system. Failure to do so could cause foreign matter to enter the system and cause damage to seals and pistons which will seriously impair the efficiency of the brake system. To ensure the brake system efficiency is not impaired the following warnings must be adhered to :- DO NOT use any petroleum based cleaning fluids or any proprietary fluids containing petrol. DO NOT use brake fluid previously bled from the system. DO NOT flush the brake system with any fluid other than the recommended brake fluid. The brake system should be drained and flushed at the recommended service intervals. Cover all electrical terminals carefully to make absolutely certain that no fluid enters the terminals and plugs. Cover all electrical terminals carefully to make absolutely certain that no fluid enters the terminals and plugs. During bleed procedure, brake fluid level must not be allowed to fall below the MIN mark. Keep reservoir topped up to the MAX mark. To bleed the hydraulic circuits, four bleed nipples are provided, one at each caliper. 1. There are two methods by which air can be removed from the braking system: 1. MANUAL BLEED PROCEDURE 2. PRESSURE BLEED PROCEDURE 2. Pressure bleed procedure 1. Purpose designed equipment for pressure filling and bleeding of hydraulic systems may be used on Land Rover vehicles . The equipment manufacturers instructions must be followed and the pressure must not exceed 4.5 bar, 65lb/in. 3. Manual bleed procedureEquipment required 1. Clean glass receptacle 2. Bleed hose 3. Wrench 4. Approx. 2 litres (3 pts) brake fluid 4. Master cylinder bleed1. Disconnect battery negative lead 2. Depress brake pedal fully and slowly 5 times. 3. Release pedal and wait 10 seconds. 4. Repeat until firm resistance is felt at the pedal. 5. Complete circuit bleed 1. Disconnect battery negative lead 2. Fit bleed hose to caliper bleed screw. 3. Dip free end of bleed hose into brake fluid in bleed bottle. 4. Open bleed nipple. 5. Depress brake pedal fully several times until fluid is clear of air bubbles. 6. Keeping pedal fully depresses, tighten bleed nipple then release pedal. 7. Repeat procedure for remaining calipers. 8. Fit bleed screw protection caps. 9. Check/top-up fluid level when bleeding is complete. Land Rover: Shell Donax YB DOT-4 ESL Fluid. (if fluid is not available use a low viscosity DOT-4 meeting ISO 4925 class 6 and Land Rover LRES22BF03. ASK GOD WHERE TO FIND THIS Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later Last edited by MK on 25th Nov 2010 8:40pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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25th Nov 2010 9:44am |
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| CapeLandy Member Since: 21 Jul 2008 Location: Cape Town Posts: 558
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I think I have confused everybody so I will explain simple
1. Sucked fluid out of top reservoir up to top of master cylinder - no air in system but no dirty fluid in reservoir 2. Filled reservoir with new Castrol Dot 4 fluid. 3. Bled system one corner at a time to get rid of the fluid remaining in the lines and master cyliner. The reason I did this was because of the advice you guys gave above stating that I should not simply drain out the old fluid and get air in the system. With all my other vehicles I have always drained out the old fluid first and then bled the system one corner at a time and never had air-locks or troubles. Was thinking maybe because the lines dissapear into the ABS module there was a reason you told me not to let the level drop. Who knows  |
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25th Nov 2010 11:58am |
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| johnnyturbo2002 Member Since: 21 May 2009 Location: Poniente Granadino Posts: 371  
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probably a great idea, but then we would have to stop and ask for directions when we get lost...I mean when we are taking a different sight seeing route that we think she would like... 2008 Defender 110 60 year Edition (sold unfortunately)
IN the hunt for another Puma for the wifey! 2008 Kia Sorento LX 😁 2.5crdi |
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25th Nov 2010 8:29pm |
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