 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Spacers to improve turning circle? |
 
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| mattlab Member Since: 16 May 2011 Location: suffolk Posts: 143   
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has anyone got/or point me in the direction of a picture of a 110 with boost alloys with 30mm spacers and 265 or 285 tyres, thanks LIFE`S TOO SHORT TO DRIVE A BORING VEHICLE
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18th May 2011 7:49pm |
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| kzycnn Member Since: 24 Apr 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 277  
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A piccie of me enjoying a cup of tea. Oh, and the Defender is fitted with 30mm spacers and 265 Cooper muds. You should be able to make out the effect of spacers/boosts and the wheel arches. Only thing I'll add to the mix is that you'll get more muck thrown up the side of the car.
Tony  Click image to enlarge[/img] |
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19th May 2011 7:48am |
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| mattlab Member Since: 16 May 2011 Location: suffolk Posts: 143
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thanks tony, dont spose you`ve got a front view. cheers, matt LIFE`S TOO SHORT TO DRIVE A BORING VEHICLE
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19th May 2011 7:57am |
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| kzycnn Member Since: 24 Apr 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 277
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Not here (I'm at work), sorry. Might be able to dig one out or take one when I get home.
Tony |
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19th May 2011 12:49pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17816 
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Some pics of mine, 285/75x16 Kumhos on standard Boost alloys, 30mm Rakeway spacers.
If you do use 30mm spacers, it is advisable to replace the M10 hex head bolts holding the driving member to the hub with socket head cap bolts, since the wheels will foul the corners of the hex heads otherwise. It won't stop the wheels from being fitted, but will result in small gouges on the inside of the wheel centre. The bolts need to be grade 10 or above, which is actually normal for good quality socket head caps but not for hex bolts (grade 8.8 by default) - the LR hex bolts are grade 10 and are not "standard" bolts.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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19th May 2011 1:12pm |
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| mattlab Member Since: 16 May 2011 Location: suffolk Posts: 143
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thanks for the pics blackwolf, im getting 265 at2`s fitted and i know how bad my steering lock is on standard 235`s with lock stops in so i reckoned i`ll need 30mm spacers with the wider tyres to keep turning circle about the same, wanted to see what it would look like so thanks and thanks for the advice on the bolts, i`ll get rakeway ones as alot of you boys rate them. cheers, matt LIFE`S TOO SHORT TO DRIVE A BORING VEHICLE
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19th May 2011 1:53pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17816
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You're welcome! With the 285's and 30mm spacers my lockstops are set as factory standard, so I now get the same turning circle with the big 'uns as a normal 110 has with the standard "space-savers". Before fitting the spacers I would have to take a shunt at roundabouts etc; very embarrassing!
I reckon that the 285's are just legal under standard arches as the tread surface is wholly contained, and the vehicle has passed MOT tests in this configuration with no problem. You won't have any problems with Rakeway spacers, both the firm and the product are first class. The 30mm spacers come with a set of nuts to secure them to the hub (which look to me like standard LR steel wheel-nuts), whereas the wider ones I think don't include the nuts. When you fit them, make sure everything is clean, smear the mating faces and stud threads with copper grease, and torque the nuts holding the spacers to the hubs to 120lbft. Fit the wheels in the normal way (so again copper grease the mating surfaces and threads) and torque the wheelnuts to the correct figure (98lbft IIRC). If you do change out the drive flange bolts as I recommend, dont forget to loctite the new ones and torque them to the corect figure (either 48lbft or 68lbft, I can't remember which offhand but can check if you need me to). You will get more crud up the side of the vehicle with spacers - with both spacers and big tyres mine gets plastered - but it doesn't bother me since (as you can see from the first photo) it is a working truck. If you wear a suit to drive your Defender to work you might want to consider the crud issue. |
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19th May 2011 4:40pm |
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| mattlab Member Since: 16 May 2011 Location: suffolk Posts: 143
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no, i`m not that posh, dont even own a suit. what i did with my 90 that had 265`s but no spacers was put a bit of rubber to fill that gap between the flap and the arch/wing. its not the best looking mod but it works. was thinking about those entrac mud flap extension brackets but from the pictures i`ve seen you`ve still got `that` gap. will let you know how i get on, be a couple of weeks as yet before i get round to it. cheers. LIFE`S TOO SHORT TO DRIVE A BORING VEHICLE
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19th May 2011 5:40pm |
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000
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Looks like I'm on my own in not liking them ! Lol
For me, I do a lot of laning and I'm not keen on them; they look modified so don't blend in with the farmer / land owner look (something I like to do), they can damage ruts and track edges and (particularly with big tyres) there are tight squeezes you won't squeeze through anymore. I can see the attraction of improved turning circle - but for me the trade off isn't worth it. I am considering dropping from 265 tyres to 235 next time, but that said I do manage as it is. Last edited by Anderzander on 22nd May 2011 9:32am. Edited 1 time in total |
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22nd May 2011 9:22am |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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bw, I don't understand your point re fouling the wheels, or why you would use copper grease and not threadlocker. Or why you wouldnt adjust the lock stops to give you the maximum lock. Th manual says leave 20 mils between the radius arms and the tyre on full lock, though I moved mine to around 10 mils, and my turning circle is akin to a two pence piece
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22nd May 2011 9:28am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17816
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Boost alloys have reliefs machined inside the centres to clear the corners of the heads of the driving member bolts. Fitting spacers rotates the wheels 36 degrees with the result that these are misaligned.
Comment re. loctite refers to the widespread belief that for some reason the nuts holding the spacers to the hubs should be treated thus. Under normal circumstances this is not necessary. Mating faces of alloy wheels should always have anti-seize compound as should wheelnuts. Comment re. lockstops was trying to make the point that mine have never been adjusted since leaving the factory and are now spot on. With 285s and no spacers there was a major rubbing issue. |
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22nd May 2011 11:05pm |
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