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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19663  
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Ignition live would be a better alternative for your turn on method, I'd not use lights in this instance as they are very important.
Have you looked at Bluesea fuse boxes? Online if you work out the max load you'd ever use ad the fuse box rating you can determine the gauge of cable and fuse needed. The fuse protects the cable not the device so the cable must be rated higher tan the fuse. There are calculators for this online inc voltage drop considerations. (N/A in this instance) I'd run power direct from battery along with a tap from ignition as your turn on method. There is a power source back there behind the NS speaker panel but A, it's permanent live. (Not a problem if you're using a Relay) And B. More importantly rated around 20A IIRC. It maybe suitable for your purpose but depends what you want from it as it will be limited. |
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31st Oct 2015 5:50pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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The blue sea uses a 110a feed. 16mm iirc. You will have trouble with getting connectors big enough for cable and small enough for fusebox using 35mm
Id buy proper rated cable and fuse box. Direct connection to battery with isolator or relay from ignition live. Id also send the neg back to the battery too. Rules out dodgy earth's down the line. Id look into heatshrink, convultued tubing, tubing glands, grommets and electrical grease to do aproper job. As for route then I'd go out the back of the battery box and onto the top of the chassis rail until you reach rear of tub then come up through tub near light cluster. If you want to cross the gearbox then go forward under bulkhead following existing battery cable then onto other chassis rail and back. |
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31st Oct 2015 6:15pm |
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| Sphere Member Since: 26 Apr 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 725 
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Thank you
Was looking st the bluesea boxes shame it won't take the 32 as I have that already. Have plenty of heat shrink grommets etc so hopefully a proper job. With the blue sea you can fit both ignition switched and permanent I think so will allow all future items. |
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31st Oct 2015 9:38pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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what are you actually trying to run from it?
custom90steve: if I'm correct in assuming this is for a 2015 Defender, does the 20A feed still exist? I thought it was removed in the 2.2s? If it is still there, then that would be more than adequate for running some LED lighting. I don't know what sort of internal rear light covers USWs have, but in my HT it's a bit of bent metal that's got enough space to fit a VSR, a 7Ah battery, some fuses and a power socket. I think you'd get even more space with LED rear lights. Going back a step, if you want an ignition live in the back and only want to run one heavy to the back, I think you should be able to take an ignition switched feed from the rear wiper:  Click image to enlarge |
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31st Oct 2015 10:27pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19663
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"custom90steve: if I'm correct in assuming this is for a 2015 Defender, does the 20A feed still exist? I thought it was removed in the 2.2s?
If it is still there, then that would be more than adequate for running some LED lighting. " Can't confirm, does anyone know or could confirm themselves? I also agree with following the chassis back from under. I did this in reverse for my spots but cable in convoluted tubing also. So extra protection from everything really. |
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31st Oct 2015 10:50pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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This thread suggests it's basically still there but a bit trickier to get at.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic20319.html still easier than putting a whole new load of wiring in though  |
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1st Nov 2015 10:51am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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delete
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1st Nov 2015 10:51am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19663
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If you did run straight from battery I'd reccomend car audio cable because it's usually OFC with as little voltage drop as possible and highly flexible.so not like trying to bend a stick around corners.
I can highly recommend Autoleads Proflex, various gauge available too. I've got 4 gauge and goes even bigger to 0. |
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1st Nov 2015 12:18pm |
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| Sphere Member Since: 26 Apr 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 725
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Thank you for input I will look at the audio stuff as will have to get some new wire if the bigger stuff will not fit.
It is just some lights to start with but possibly adding some other stuff in the future. Won't get high draw but want to run new wires so I can isolate easy and add a second battery possibly sometime. |
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2nd Nov 2015 9:47pm |
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