 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Door screws and bolts - going back to original mild steel |
 
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816   
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Done.
Except for the two screws of the bottom 5th door hinge which as said earlier are turning idle. Mal gave the solution for that, but we are in a rush not to miss the apéro of our Swiss national day celebration, so will give those two screws a try tomorrow. Some more details about this exercise tomorrow. Eric PS- still curious to see an answer to my question about one set of 5th door hinge screws being of a different quality/appearance than all the other screws. You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw Last edited by ericvv on 9th Aug 2015 6:51am. Edited 1 time in total |
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1st Aug 2015 5:46pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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each to there own etc etc
but why fit bolts that rust and always have rusted |
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1st Aug 2015 5:57pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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So this morning tackled those two last screws connecting the lower rear door hinge to the body. As per Mal's (as always excellent) advise this is the most difficult and messy part, requiring two persons. After I located the screws lying under the truck with a flashlight, I immediately gave up the idea to ask the Mrs. to lie under the car, I don't want to spoil the rest of my sunday.
So me under the truck, the Mrs. loosening the top one of the two screws. It was a bit of a struggle for me to put the nut blindly back on once the original mild steel screw was put in, but in the end we succeeded. So, 50% success with those two last screws, as the lower of the two, I simply do not have a torx driver which fits in between the limited space between the screw and the pivoting part of my Kaymar wheel carrier. Tried everything, but had to give up. So we have an overall succesfactor of 53 out of 54 screws, not too bad. That last one, I will happily let my dealer take care of it, hope they will have the right type of torx driver, and I will make sure that they will use my Weicon paste. Very happy that this is done, key is to take your time, and don't force anything, certainly not when some of the bolts that you have to loosen are a bit tight. I did not break anything at all, but one rear door lower cover clip. That is also one I will ask my dealer to replace. As to Munch question why I am doing this, well better to start reading this thread from the start again. I do believe that these mild steel bolts will be less agressive in dissimilar metal contant consequences than any type of stainless bolts, and now that I have properly covered all of them in ample Weicon Anti-seize installation paste for dissimilar metals, the contact between metals will be limited, so the risk for corrosion of these mild steel bolts themselves, and of the body part they screw into, will be even more limited also. One thing about Weicon versus the more used on here Duralac paste. As said before, I have used Duralac before, still have a tube, but it hardens up, becomes completely solid, and when you remove a screw covered with it after a year or so, the Duralac just comes off in broken solid pieces. Weicon does not harden up at all, it remains a paste. So as I have covered each and every of the holes and each and every of the standard screws with more than ample Weicon, future removal should remain very easy. As said here, each to their own in the end, but having used both, I think Weicon is better than Duralac. So, if in the future one of these mild steel screws would show some rust again, I will just replace it by another one again. However, doubt that this will happen any time soon. For those who would need a replacement of one or other original door or crossmember screw, rather than keep posting pictures of the individual screw bags, I have taken a picture of my dealer invoice for the lot, and have marked the use of each screw type. So it will be easy to order eventual replacements in the future as this gives the Land Rover part number. Here it is.
 Click image to enlarge Here is a view of how much Weicon I used. Have wiped all excesses off, now need just a good general car(wash) clean.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I will have a full brand new unopened pack of Nakatanenga stainless steel screw set for a 110SW for sale soon now. Had bought that a while ago as I had planned to replace my Stig Fastener stainless screws by such a Naka set, but then came my change of heart about stainless screws. One word about the Stig Fastener stainless screws which have been in use on the SVX for about 6.5 years now, well, they also came out perfectly ok, so that quality stainless steel is good too. (for those who like stainless) Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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2nd Aug 2015 10:51am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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I have a question about these 6 original screws for the rear door hinges to body connection. The LR part number for those is BYG 000060. As in above picture, and as explained earlier, these mild steel screws that I got from my dealer are of a different appearance than all the other original door screws. These 6XBYG 000060 are of a more polished glossy appearance, while all other screws are the same dullish, a bit rougher appearance, grey. I have looked at a new Defender here at my dealer ready for delivery, and they still come from the factory with those BYG 000060 in the same standard dull appearance as all other door screws. I would like to replace those too glossy BYG 000060 that were delivered by LR Switzerland again by the duller version as they come from the factory on new Defenders. Does anybody know of a UK based supplier for these dullish looking original screws? Thanks, Eric Thanks, Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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10th Sep 2015 10:43am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Found them here, ordered.
You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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10th Sep 2015 7:55pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 673 
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Thanks for the parts list with the part numbers, ericvv. I will just order replacements for my old rusted ones and try and reuse the older ones that are still good. It's a real bummer that this thread didn't come out BEFORE I had just switched out the screws. *SIGH* That is life, I guess. While I still have the old screws and some of the hardware, they are all jumbled and mixed up in just one bag.
Does this mean it will be a better idea to order new ones anyway then just sort out and preserve the existing set? If memory serves, only one or two of the original set was rusty anyways though I'm not sure if it was just the screw face that was rusty or if corrosion was already working it's way through the whole screw. In any case, it didn't look nice at all! |
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11th Sep 2015 2:52am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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^^ HC, these original standard screws are cheap, so I would not bother clean up or put anything back which even has the slightest form of surface rust. Replace by a new one which costs more or less a £. I think if you put a lot of that contact spray like I did, it will be a long time before one will be rusting again. And then, at first sign, order a new one, taking out the old one with all that non-hardening paste will be a doddle, replace it again by new for another 1 £. Happy to live on like that with the idea that the mild steel in the long run is going to be less risky to affect what really counts, and that are the hinges and especially the alu body panels.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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11th Sep 2015 7:29am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Completed the job with the help of mrs. ericvv.
Last thing to do was take out those BYG000060 rear door into body screws which today are of a different (glossy) appearance coming directly from LR. I checked also various after market sellers, and have the impression that it is the same situation there. However, all new Defenders coming from the factory, still come with those screws in the same dull matt grey appearance as all other original mild steel door screws. Solution was to order 6 x AYG100240 from my dealer, which are the screws with the correct dull matt appearance for the rear cross member to body connection. These are the same size as those original door screws, they are even a tick more expensive, so guess at least equally strong. So anybody who would want to replace a rear door to body screw which normally is that BYG screw, may want to consider doing the same as I did, just by a AYG screw. Below a few pictures which show the difference. The paste you see in one of the pictures is the famous Weicon which again applied generously. Job done, 53 out of 54 screws are back to original now, back to the original look. Just nbr 54 remains to be replaced by dealer.
Eric Correct looking AYG left in the bag, to compare the BYG which LR now sells and which I took out again at the right Click image to enlarge Outcoming screws and Weicon paste. Worth noting that last time I used the paint brush to apply the paste was 6 weeks ago. The brush has been sitting unprotected in the little saucer since then, and today it still had not hardened up. As said Weicon does not harden up all, here is proof. Click image to enlarge Job done. Excess Weicon will come off later. Click image to enlarge You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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27th Sep 2015 3:48pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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What a pig of a job this was. I never replaced that one remaining stainless steel screw in the back panel by a genuine mild steel version as the access was blocked by the closeby sparewheel carrier cylinder. I always thought to let my dealer replace this last bolt, but I never asked. This stainless bolt has kept bothering me, so today I took another look at my tool box and found a way to get the torx bit squeezed into the bolt head behind the carrier cylinder without damaging anything. It worked, but a very tight fit it was. The pig part of the job is that you have to lie under the truck (which is the ok part) and blindly squeeze your hand up in the space behind the rear quarter panel (full of Dinitrol) with a ring spanner in order to hold the non captive nut (that is the pig part), while the mrs. would carefully undo the bolt in the tight space available between the hinge and the sparewheel carrier.
It worked, I now have the last mild steel bolt, nbr 54/54, back in place into a new correct mild steel nut. Again, I used copious amounts of Weicon paste in the panel hole, and on the bolt and the nut, in the hope to keep rust at bay. Happy that I finally got rid of this last stainless bolt. Anybody needing to replace such a rear door bolt, this one is a 8x25mm bolt, Land Rover part number AYG100240 (as explained before, that AYG is more appropriate than the new version of the BYG000060 bolt), and for the non captive nut in the back you need a 13mm ring spanner. This number 54/54 is the one on the bottom right side. Click image to enlarge With all the blindly squeezing my hand behind electric wires checked afterward if all lights in the rear still work. All good.
Click image to enlarge Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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1st Apr 2017 2:37pm |
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| Brendlynch Member Since: 06 Nov 2016 Location: Grouville Posts: 182  
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Hi, do you mind me asking how you got on with the b-pillar hinge screws? Tried to undo mine today but totally rusted and I gave up. I couldn't work out whether the square plate is welded to the two nuts or whether the nuts are separate from the plate. Doesn't really matter anyway, point being I couldn't get them out on either side. Wonder if there were any words of wisdom you could provide?
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5th Apr 2017 9:47pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857  
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The two nuts are attached to the plate for both the upper and lower hinges. Before now I have had to use brute force to shear the nut off the plate (a square socket helps) to remove these.
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5th Apr 2017 10:23pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Words of wisdom? Sounds a bit late for your B-pillar screws, but if you want to avoid the same happening to your other hinge screws, maybe replace them all while you still can. New ones easily obtainable from your dealer or from Dan at Duckworthparts, unless you want to go for stainless (you might want to there on Jersey as if you are close to the coast, the air probably constantly is pretty salty). In either case, buy yourself a can of this Weicon paste, and dip the new screws into it. If you go for new mild steel screws, keep an eye on rust reappearing, and then replace that screw by another again. If you replace the 10 cross member to body screws, also use a plastic washer as Olaf from Entreq smartly did on mine. I keep a supply of a dozen or more of each of the genuine screw types and nuts as spares for the future. Probably won't need them all, but now that the Defender production has stopped, Land Rover already replaced the genuine safari door to rear panel screws by a different more glossy look (see in an earlier post here and the solution to that), but more recently also made one other type of Defender door screws obsolete and replaced it by a bit different looking screw with a different part number. It works, but it is not the same, luckily when it is in the door you won't notice. That is probably only the beginning of parts becoming obsolete, therefore happy that I have built a real stock of the correct genuine screws for the future. As to your B-pillar screws, if you want to keep your Defender for longer time, maybe worth to take some drastic corrective action after all. Those rusted plates, nuts and screws are not good news for your B-pillar itself. Maybe better to remove it all and try to replace by new, if you still can find these (from a breaker?). Afraid this is as far as my wisdom goes. Good luck.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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6th Apr 2017 5:17am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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The B post plates can be replaced with a large washer and stiff nut for each setscrew.
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6th Apr 2017 7:11am |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4784 
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^ I did this with my 110, as an additional security measure to slow down door removal
2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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6th Apr 2017 7:21am |
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