 | Home > In Car Electronics > 2015 110 Kill Switch? |
 
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5084   
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Yes you can, I use a Durite security keyed kill switch that I have fitted behind the cubby box. However, to keep your codes and alarm working you will need to feed a supply through the switch via a fused link, I use a 15 amp fuse which is sufficient to keep the Alarms and tracker working, but if any one try's to start the vehicle it would blow the fuse. If you have a tracker fitted this will need to have its own direct feed from the battery as once the fuse blows no power at all will available in the vehicles wiring harnesses.
 For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..
http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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10th May 2015 12:23pm |
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| GypsySamuraiAnt Member Since: 31 Mar 2015 Location: Brisbane Posts: 131  
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Thanks very much for the reply.
So just so I have this right if someone tries to start the vehicle it will trip the fuse the head unit and alarm are running through so you just reset the fuse and every things ready to roll again when the kill switch is set to live? Cheers, Ant |
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11th May 2015 11:51am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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^^^yes agree with how to do it
always try to remember to turn on isolator before ignition , some electronics dont like power loss during power up keep a stock of fuses , I use a small circuit breaker with push button reset , just saves looking for fuses  |
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11th May 2015 11:58am |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5084
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Yes, all you need to do is cut your battery positive cable and join the two ends to the switch; you may need to buy an extra length of battery cable depending where you are going to fit the switch.
You will also need to run a length of cable from the battery positive to the terminal on the switch where you have attached the cable that is not coming from the positive of the battery, I used 20 amp cable for this second wire it does not have to be very heavy duty . This second cable will have a fuse link so that power is going to your alarm and radio; I used a 15 amp fuse which is fine for my set up. If anyone starts the car while the switch is in the kill position it will blow the fuse. I recommend the Durite switch as it very heavy duty and impossible to prize apart. For extra security I attached a metal box under the seat box covering the underside of the switch so that the terminal cannot be interfered with from under the vehicle For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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11th May 2015 12:23pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5084
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If it is any help you can buy the switch here from Vehicle wiring products.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/prod...tor-switch Or from eBay which is a bit cheaper and free postage http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durite-0-605-20-...19df747b62 For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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11th May 2015 12:31pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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just to throw a spanner in the works
cutting the positive cable means losing the mega fuse (if you cut off terminal ) also the positive cable has 2 cables from the positive terminal ( 1 to starter 1 to fuse box ) meaning more joints etc negative only has one cable personally I would put the switch in the negative cable , does same job , not so much worry about insulating the switch/cables etc , can still use fuse/breaker |
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11th May 2015 12:43pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5084
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I agree negative cable much easier to do on more recent Defenders.
Must admit I got my wires crossed  and was thinking of an earlier Defender that has only one positive cable.
But on later defenders that have more complicated wiring then negative cable would be much more simple and would be the same as wiring in the old and trusty negative battery terminal DISCARNECT. Which may suffice GypsySamuraiAnt needs if he does not mind removing the seat to unscrew off the black knob to isolate the battery. Not as secure as the Durite switch but a lot easier to install. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Disconne...1c321217a2 Click image to enlarge For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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11th May 2015 1:11pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6676 
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DO NOT OPERATE a cut off switch of the design above if your engine is running - If you need that option use an FIA cut off switch
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11th May 2015 3:42pm |
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| Alien Member Since: 18 Jan 2015 Location: Bacchus Marsh Posts: 230
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I can't see why you would need the in line fuse with the suggested key setup.
Leave the + terminal on the starting battery with the feed for the fuse box. Fit the cut out between the terminal and the stater. This will maintain all the power required for the alarms, lights, radio etc. If you forget it's isolated it simply wont crank but all other systems are maintained with out having to hunt for the fuse. No reason it could not be mounted through the front wall of the seat box and accessed from the drivers seat. This is where I mounted my winch isolator and can be easily reached and not in the way of a passenger. |
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12th May 2015 4:17am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Yes but you you would have to have 2 isolatorsi for total power off and all so vehicle could be bump started
total power off is handy for emergency and if you want to work on vehicle without getting to battery best of course is to have a battery back up sounder , for when total power is off , some have them fitted some dont so worth checking and even a back up for the back up sounder if your going for security layers!! |
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12th May 2015 5:56am |
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| GypsySamuraiAnt Member Since: 31 Mar 2015 Location: Brisbane Posts: 131
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Thanks for all the quality replies
Sorry should have mentioned what I have in mind first. I have a Muglo Exbox on the way and was going to have all the electrics transferred from under the seat into. Then I was hoping to drill a hole through the top of the exbox and into the bottom of the factory cubby for something a Durite kill switch (key facing up) to be mounted in. So with that in mind do I still need the push button circuit breaker and can that be mounted in the exbox also? Cheers, Ant |
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12th May 2015 10:28am |
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| Alien Member Since: 18 Jan 2015 Location: Bacchus Marsh Posts: 230
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I had not thought about the "bump start" factor as figured the alarm and immobiliser would cover this. It all comes down to what added level of deterrents owners want to go to. Ant, The main battery to starter lead does not get moved in the Ex-box conversion but I think it would still work isolating the battery to fuse box feed wire within the Ex-box. I'd personally go through the front of the box with the kill switch to maintain the storage capacity of the cubby box. Alternatively mount it inside the Ex-box. Both of these setups will need the Ex-box padlocked to stop the possibility of a hot wire being used to bypass the isolator. A resettable push button fuse could be used and does not have to mount to the box, maybe hide it under the floor mat or under the dash out of sight. The reason for the fuse bypass is to keep power for the alarm, immobilizer, clock, radio and interior lights etc.. It all depends on what your desired outcome is. Also consider if the fuse does trip what is involved in recoding the radio and if the fob needs to be re-synchronized. Also as Munch90 said it may have a battery disconnected horn to factor in to the equation.. This is the reason I suggested to only do the main feed wire between the battery and the starter. |
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12th May 2015 6:25pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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The standard back up sounder can be disarmed before battery disconnect for example to work on vehicle
if the fuse/breaker blows , the back up sounder will sound and keep sounding until power reconnect and ign turned on if the fuse breaker blows you normally need to recode the radio re sync for key fob is normally just push buttons on fob until it locks and unlocks by the fob ( can take about 8 presses to resync ) EASY WAY IS JUST TRY TO ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TURN ISOLATOR ON BEFORE STARTING , AS SAID SUDDEN TOTAL POWER LOSS IS NOT GOOD WHEN SOME UNITS ARE STILL POWERING UP AND DONT TURN ISOLATOR OFF WITH ENGINE RUNNING |
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12th May 2015 7:30pm |
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| GypsySamuraiAnt Member Since: 31 Mar 2015 Location: Brisbane Posts: 131
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Thanks very much! I will post some pics when it gets here just to confirm I have everything right.
Cheers. |
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13th May 2015 10:37am |
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