 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Just FYI :) they seem to learn (hub - grease) |
 
|
|
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17872   
|
These bolts are preloaded with thread-locker (if you buy Genuine Parts replacements they will similarly be preloaded), and they are also grade 10.9, rather than the usual high tensile grade, 8.8. I have in the past had problems with these. As you found they can be difficult to undo and have been known to shear. Also, they can shear when you torque them down, especially if there is a build-up of joint compound (from the flange to hub joint) and thread-locker in the hole and they have been stressed to yield point by a 'professional' with more muscle than brain in the past! My normal practice now is to replace the hex-head bolts with socket-head capscrews (which are 10.9 as standard) and fit a spring washer under the head, rather than using thread locker. I have never had any problems since doing this, the fasteners are cheaper (than OE preloaded bolts). Series vehicles always used spring washers rather than thread-locker and it was fine for them. Drilling out and replacing a sheared drive member bolt (and usually helicoiling the hub) is a major PITA and is very difficult to do without risking damage to the hub. (I have been running for the last 70k miles or so with only four bolts in the ROS member for this reason)! The wheelbearings should be greased (a good lithium grease like the now-discontinued Castrol LM is ideal) and really there shouldn't be any oil contamination. In practice it is normal for a small amount of axle oil to migrate from the rear axle tube into the hubs, and it doesn't seem to cause a problem. The halfshaft outer splines and driving member splines should be greased (again Castrol LM or equivalent is great). If these are dry, they will wear and they will fail, often in a remarkably short time. |
||
22nd Aug 2013 12:46pm |
|
| Dave-H Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1507  
|
Theres an old post on here by me from last year ... being bored i decided to whip all four hubs off my 2007 90 and re-grease the bearings ..... well i say 're-grease' ... but all four were so dry that just 'grease' would be a more accurate statement!
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic14048....l+bearings Guns and Landrovers .... anything else is irrelevant. |
||
|
22nd Aug 2013 12:54pm |
|
| landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
I do not prefer the spring washers, as the loose their tension over a while and can let water pass into the bore of the hub. Of course a greased bolt can prevent this again. I turned to re-tighten the bolts with loctite, but a mid-strength type at maximum. And I use a common washer under the hex-bolt-head. The washer is coated both sides with loctite, as is the stem of the bolt and the thread also. This very reliably prevents water ingress. So there is no rust to occur. Since then no bolt happend to come loose nor was it difficult to undo. But I always clean the threads of bolt and hole by a tap and die. However, there neednīt be only one right way. But the Loctite that Rover chose certainly was a mistake in my eyes. |
||
|
22nd Aug 2013 1:40pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17872
|
All I can say is that in 35+ years of Landrover owership I have never found this to be a problem, whereas I have found the thread-locker to be a problem on several occasions.
Agree on both points! What are forums like this for, if not to exchange views, opinions, and experiences?  |
||
|
22nd Aug 2013 2:31pm |
|
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6346 
|
Having just read your original post it makes me now understand why the shafts are called half shafts - it's because they're installed by half wits?
|
||
|
20th Jun 2014 9:30pm |
|
| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
|
Nah - it's because you're half-shafted when you buy a Defender
 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
||
|
20th Jun 2014 9:41pm |
|
| martinfiattech Member Since: 13 Nov 2013 Location: leicester Posts: 422
|
If there is a problem with tread lock / locktight, the tried and tested way I`ve found is to warm up the bolt or area around said bolt with a blow torch or a electric heat gun ( the the thing you can strip paint off with)
It does the job a treat, don`t worry about ally the heat gun won`t melt it unless you get silly, but plastics and seals will be destroyed Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires. |
||
|
20th Jun 2014 10:21pm |
|
| landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
Out of memory Iīd say that Loctite needs a little above 100°C to get liquid again (think it was 120°C) - if this is necessary to help undoing a bolt.
The common seals (NBR)(black colour) are rated -30 to 100°C. OTOH in many times the seals are standard sizes and it it possible to exchange them with Viton (FBM/FKM) which are an improvement as rated from -20 to 200°C. Those Iīve bought these months to use on an old tractor were all brown (like sh.t). I remember that the crankshaft seal of a 300Tdi has had that colour. So in critical areas even Rover uses this seal material. Now .. not talking anybody into changing seals just to make them loctite-removal-proof. .. just came into my mind reading about the air gun.  . |
||
|
22nd Jun 2014 11:02pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
