 | Home > Td5 > One more non starter! |
 
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| abomb1969 Member Since: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Welwyn, Hertfordshire Posts: 79   
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Solved it, crank speed was low due to low battery voltage.
Phew. |
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13th Jan 2014 3:43pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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Phew... Indeed... Just been through this myself...
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13th Jan 2014 4:39pm |
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| abomb1969 Member Since: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Welwyn, Hertfordshire Posts: 79
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Further update unfortunately.
It was starting perfectly until the breakdown resolved with the crank sensor. Now replaced. It is now starting, but after random periods of cranking, sometimes short sometimes long. Worse when the car is started after 10 minutes. If I let the fuel pump run then shut down it starts fairly easily. I am narrowing down to FPR or injector seals. I also reset my ABS, which has been playing up with a shuttle valve error, and have got an 18-02 pmw signal failure from engine ecu? error for the first time. I was forced to leave it out for a week in the rain, its usually garaged. Last time this happened my shuttle valve error appeared. Last edited by abomb1969 on 13th Jan 2014 6:29pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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13th Jan 2014 6:08pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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Balls...
How is your injector loom? oily? |
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13th Jan 2014 6:12pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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If you feel that there is a lack of diesel to the injectors try taking out the air bleed valve, found in front left pipe(as you look at it) on the top of the fuel filter housing. Yours is an early Td5, you may find a non return valve in the back left pipe, check its working.
The abs, if it continues to be a problem........shuttle valve failure logged 240 times.....as said by a nanocom can be cured by a Discovery shuttle valve solonoid pack replacement. Usually just over £40 off ebay, you get a genuine Wabco part, and is a straight swopover, just be wary of a really noticable amount of fluid when you take it apart, signifies that you need a seal kit for the shuttle valves, alittle more complicated but doable by a competant person. |
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13th Jan 2014 8:20pm |
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| abomb1969 Member Since: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Welwyn, Hertfordshire Posts: 79
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Loom changed 3 years ago, there was a tiny trace of oil in it.
I have the Wabco part to fit in the hope that the problem is resolved, I didn't know about that seal kit thanks for the info, may I ask where I get one from? Thanks for the info, I am a bit paranoid about bleeding the brakes after I replace the shuttle valves! |
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13th Jan 2014 10:55pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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I'm pretty sure I saw a seal kit in the shop of the ebay place I got mine from but as they're genuine Wabco parts I'm pretty sure that a motor factor worth his weight would be able to source them. I see from your signature that you have a snorkel fitted, the rub is that if you don't want to take the outer wing off then the side aperture is pretty much the only access to get to the modulator unit without disconnecting any brake lines.
I don't know if you've come across an official LR bulletin http://www.landroverclubvi.com/uploads/2/3...ooting.pdf This seemed to be a bit long winded in my case as I had allready pretty much nailed the problem when I had followed a modification as set out on this website; http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html Allthough done on a Disco II the principles are the same just the modulator is a damn site easier to access than on a Defender. This also shows replacement of the shuttle valves as well. One tip I would give is to undo the screws on the top plate of the clutch master cylinder assembly as there are brake lines clamped in some very tight clips, much easier to free the plate wholesale, this will allow some extra movement so that when the modulator block is free'd off the mounting frame, you can lift the modulator with all pipes connected up higher to give you more room underneath. Unbolt the mounting frame completely and take it out equalling more room. If you haven't got any fancy allen keys then use one out of those cheap screwdriver kits, the ones that have a hex end that fits into the same holder that screwdriver bits slot into like you use for your cordless drill. I used mine in the appropriate 1/4" drive socket and used a ratchet. Blob of something sticky in the socket so it didn't go walkabout everytime you knocked it and this saves you having to keep locating the hole when you can only turn it a quarter turn. From getting the tools out, odd cup of coffee and putting the tools back was about 3 hours, and even the first time with trying to solder new wires in took just over 4, so not too bad. |
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13th Jan 2014 11:42pm |
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| abomb1969 Member Since: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Welwyn, Hertfordshire Posts: 79
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Thank you JWL, your time in detailing this is very much appreciated.
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16th Jan 2014 7:32pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Just passing on my own experiences after having to deal with similar problems myself. That's one of the good things about this forum, there is plenty of first hand experience and people who are willing to pass it on to others who are finding themselves in similar situations.
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16th Jan 2014 8:49pm |
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