 | Home > Tdi > Timing belt wear questions |
 
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| bga86 Member Since: 17 Jan 2014 Location: Here and there Posts: 205  
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I would be removing the frint cover and visually inspecting the belt. When fitted did you rotate engine 2 times and check belt wasn't creeping forward? When you say it's had the modification, has it had the new crank pulley with outer ridges on also?
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17th Jan 2014 9:42pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501  
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That definately require further investigation,sooner rather than later ! 2005 Td5 90 XS
Steve |
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17th Jan 2014 9:50pm |
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| Timo K Member Since: 23 Aug 2012 Location: Helsinki Posts: 169 
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If it's that full of fluff it's going to be in bad shape, that is not normal. Sorry to say but something probably went wrong when you changed it.
If you keep driving you risk a very high chance of engine damage when the belt breaks. It should normally last for over 100 000 km with no such fluff... |
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17th Jan 2014 11:08pm |
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| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 349  
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The fluff was less than one ear bud.
Yes it has the new crank pulley I worked according to the book so I did the rotations and retorq. I will inspect it with a bore scope through the wading plug hole. This might give me a better idea. |
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17th Jan 2014 11:47pm |
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| Defender SVX Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Co Durham Posts: 726 
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Possibly over tensioned when refitted? I had this in the past. Formerly mao99999
16 Focus RS Nitrous Blue. 11 FFRR TDV8 Vouge SE Black Black. 08 DEFENDER SVX SOFT TOP (SUPERB) 08 DEFENDER 110 DCPU Stornoway grey (Overland Exploration Unit) 05 Fiesta ST 150 Van 04 Jaguar XKR 4.2 Supercharged V8 02 DEFENDER 90 TD5 (next years soft top project) 95 DEFENDER 110 CSW 300 TDi Phoenix black 95 DEFENDER 90 HT Monti Carlo blue COUNTY 300 TDi 67 109" SERIES 2a TUNED 200 TDI 64 DAVID BROWN 990 rat look 55 86" SERIES 1 |
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18th Jan 2014 7:47am |
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| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 349
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What did you do about it.
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18th Jan 2014 7:54am |
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| Defender SVX Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Co Durham Posts: 726
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I refitted a new belt at the correct tension and turned the engine by hand until I was happy it wasn't coming forward. In my experience I have found that if the belt wasn't frayed when first replacing there is no need for the updated kit, just replace the idler and tension pulleys with the belt.
Also which bottom pulley has yours got? There were some replacement ones with just a plate spot welded to the front wich used to shred the belt if it did draw forward, or the better made one piece that could help ease the belt in back in line. I think it is a tension issue as it was ok before but defiantly needs looking at. Formerly mao99999 16 Focus RS Nitrous Blue. 11 FFRR TDV8 Vouge SE Black Black. 08 DEFENDER SVX SOFT TOP (SUPERB) 08 DEFENDER 110 DCPU Stornoway grey (Overland Exploration Unit) 05 Fiesta ST 150 Van 04 Jaguar XKR 4.2 Supercharged V8 02 DEFENDER 90 TD5 (next years soft top project) 95 DEFENDER 110 CSW 300 TDi Phoenix black 95 DEFENDER 90 HT Monti Carlo blue COUNTY 300 TDi 67 109" SERIES 2a TUNED 200 TDI 64 DAVID BROWN 990 rat look 55 86" SERIES 1 |
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18th Jan 2014 8:53am |
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| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 349
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I did check the belt for forward movement when I turned the engine and it was fine.
It has the Land Rover modified pulley. I'll check with a bore scope before opening it. And monitor it for a while. If there is no more fluff I'll leave it until 20 000km. What do you think? |
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18th Jan 2014 2:50pm |
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| lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006  
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I ended up doing mine 3 times in rapid sucseion because of over tension. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
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18th Jan 2014 8:59pm |
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| Defender SVX Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Co Durham Posts: 726
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Don't waste time with a bore scope it's 30mins - 1hour to remove and inspect! By the sounds of it your probably going to replace the belt anyway. After my first misfortune of belt problems as part of a annual service on my 300 tdi's I inspect the belt, you don't need to remove the rad/intercooler just the plastic surround and fan then there's ample access to remove the cover and potentially change the belt. Formerly mao99999 16 Focus RS Nitrous Blue. 11 FFRR TDV8 Vouge SE Black Black. 08 DEFENDER SVX SOFT TOP (SUPERB) 08 DEFENDER 110 DCPU Stornoway grey (Overland Exploration Unit) 05 Fiesta ST 150 Van 04 Jaguar XKR 4.2 Supercharged V8 02 DEFENDER 90 TD5 (next years soft top project) 95 DEFENDER 110 CSW 300 TDi Phoenix black 95 DEFENDER 90 HT Monti Carlo blue COUNTY 300 TDi 67 109" SERIES 2a TUNED 200 TDI 64 DAVID BROWN 990 rat look 55 86" SERIES 1 |
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18th Jan 2014 9:26pm |
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| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 349
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Yeah you're right. I'll have a look.
What's strange is that I used a torque meter as prescribed. Well maybe I'll learn something. |
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18th Jan 2014 9:36pm |
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| Defender SVX Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Co Durham Posts: 726
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After years of timing belt changes in my youth I've gained a feel for timing belt tension! There's no exact science.
Typical Land Rover with the 300 tdi some never have issues with pulley alignment yet others are plagued. I know a old engineer who spent days to perfect the alignment with shims etc on his Disco 300 tdi and still admits it's down to over tension. Formerly mao99999 16 Focus RS Nitrous Blue. 11 FFRR TDV8 Vouge SE Black Black. 08 DEFENDER SVX SOFT TOP (SUPERB) 08 DEFENDER 110 DCPU Stornoway grey (Overland Exploration Unit) 05 Fiesta ST 150 Van 04 Jaguar XKR 4.2 Supercharged V8 02 DEFENDER 90 TD5 (next years soft top project) 95 DEFENDER 110 CSW 300 TDi Phoenix black 95 DEFENDER 90 HT Monti Carlo blue COUNTY 300 TDi 67 109" SERIES 2a TUNED 200 TDI 64 DAVID BROWN 990 rat look 55 86" SERIES 1 |
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18th Jan 2014 9:50pm |
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| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 349
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Ok here's some feedback but first I think I must give some history about what you're going to see.
In May last year I replaced the timing belt, idler pulley and tensioner pulley along with a proper service. I have a RAVE manual and worked according to it but what I didn't know is that there is some mistakes in it. When I tightened the nut on the idler pulley the stud was pulled out of the casing with it's tread.  Click image to enlarge On further inspection of the manual I found that the stud must be torqed 10Nm but the nut 45Nm! That must be a mistake. So I tapped a new tread and used a step down stud. Everything was perfect for 5000Km. That is where my first post comes in. So I did open up the front cover and this is what I found. Click image to enlarge Note that the whole timing case is filled with the "fluff" Click image to enlarge Also note the difference between the width of the two belts. The one I removed was just over 10mm in width! What caused this? stupidity. When I had to re-tap the idler pulley's hole I should have removed the timing housing. It all looked perfect but it was slightly skew. This time I did remove it and I did all the work on a milling machine. Click image to enlarge What I did was to mill the hole to 14mm and tap it M16. Click image to enlarge Then I made a M16 treaded insert with a M10 tread in the centre. Both the insert and the stud is now fixed with Loctite. I think this was a good lesson because it could have been more than 10 times more expensive if the belt snapped. Also most people don't know that the tension for a new belt is 11Nm and not the 15Nm that the manual states. I accidentally found that out on Youtube. Land Rover brought out a bulletin in '98. I hope this can help someone else it's the only reason I'm sharing my  -up with you. |
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16th Feb 2014 9:37pm |
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| neilly Member Since: 21 Nov 2013 Location: Oxford Posts: 11 
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HI,
Just read your reply, good work. Can you clarify what you were saying about the torque on the tensioner nut and stud. I thought both had to be done up to 45Nm. [i]SEE NEXT REPLY, LOL. [/i] cheers Neil Last edited by neilly on 22nd Feb 2014 10:32am. Edited 1 time in total |
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22nd Feb 2014 10:14am |
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