 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Need help in detaching fuel lines from filter head |
 
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| Toplink Member Since: 05 Dec 2010 Location: Somerset Posts: 159  
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Just push down on the blue clip.A flat bladed screw driver works well. Its never over in my land rover.
2007 Defender HTop. 1952 Series One 80" 1977 Muir-Hill 111. 2014 Triumph Tiger800xc 1999 Discovery 2 td5 1982 Ransomes TSR300D. 2002 Yamaha XT600e. 2010 Freelander2 (the wifes) 2008 John Deere X140 |
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29th Jun 2013 1:25pm |
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| MD5 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Italy Posts: 143 
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I tried with the flat screwdriver but no no lucky. I don't want to push too hard to avoid breaking something. Both e filter head and connectors appear to be very tiny.
Next week my Def will go to LR assistance for some work and I ask them to disconnect and test the fuel lines. Thanks all for the help attempt! |
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30th Jun 2013 6:45am |
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| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2724
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I'm having EXACTLY the same problems as you, did you get anywhere?
One mechanic seems to think I've got air in the system when I changed my fuel filter due to sludge in fuel but I'm not so sure. Tried bleeding the system to no avail. I have had EGR problems in past, but this doesn't seem like that. Hope you can help, David Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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30th Aug 2013 7:45pm |
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| MD5 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Italy Posts: 143
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To disconnect the larger fuel lines (the ones that supply fuel to the pump), a special tool are required.
However most workshop don'use any tool other than a little screwdriver. Try pushing the blue "button" with the help of a little screwdriver between the finger and the button, to help pushing down better. Then you can slide and disconnect the lines from the filter head. Be very gentle because the filter head are very thin! For fuel lines bleeding, I prefer to disconnect the quick release connector near the fuel pump and then pressurize the fuel tank. The positive pressure in the fuel tank will flow the fuel in the filter and then in the fuel lines. |
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30th Aug 2013 8:07pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189 
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regarding the above, how do you pressurize the fuel tank? BM52 |
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30th Aug 2013 10:00pm |
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| MD5 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Italy Posts: 143
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To pressurize the fuel tank I use the ARB CKMA12 on board air compressor, but you can use any air comp and a common air blow gun.
Just blow air into the tank breather pipe and use the filler cap to adjust the pressure. Or put a ratchet around the filler hole and blow air from that way. Only a very low pressure are needed for bleeding the system, avoid to blow too much air inside the tank. Another useful thing that can be done in that way is a kind of tank, feed line (tank to filter head) and filter head cleaning from debris, water and gum/dirty that sometime can be happen. It's better to do this job with and almost empty fuel tank. Just remove the fuel filter and put a bucket below the filter head. Then start to pressurize the tank to allow the fuel flow from the filter head to the bucket. Keep the tank pressurized until all the fuel come out from the tank. For more effectiviness, you can add some tank cleaner/water remover additive and leave it in action for hours or days before starting the cleaning process. I found a very powerful tank cleaner designed for boat application claimed to destroy most of the typical fuel clogging, gum and water tank deposit. I leave it in action for 24h and then start to empty the tank. About the collected fuel, I filter it from debris but since the percentage of additive is excessive for the engine I recycle it little at a time. |
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31st Aug 2013 5:44am |
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| RobM Member Since: 06 Jul 2015 Location: Brisbane Posts: 43  
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Guys... I had fuel problems while I was crossing a Desert in Australia. I tried to remove the Feed hose from the tank to the fuel filter at the Fuel Filter but it looks like I was doing the wrong thing as trying to pull the blue tab up & out instead of pushing inwards and thus snapped the blue tab off. No leaks, etc & I ended up removing the fuel filter itself and blowing air back up and into the tank to free what ever was blocking the fuel pickup and this got us back home safely. Now its time to try and fix what I broke. Can u buy these fuel connections seperately? How can I now remove the fuel connection off the filter housing? Also, has anyone totally removed the OEM Fuel Filter and installed a Fuel Filter Kit that has a built-in primer? Cheers..... Rob 1995 Defender Tdi 110Wgn 1996 LR Discovery Tdi300 (A) 2009 Defender PUMA 110Wgn My TRPS: Rob's WikiLoc Trips |
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21st Aug 2019 10:36am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 673 
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Unfortunately, if you want new connectors, you'll have to buy new lines and drop the tank to install them. Another way you can go about it once you pry it off the fuel filter assembly is to cut off the "quick" disconnect and just push the hose onto the filter head intake and secure with a hose clamp (jubilee clip) and call it a day. This makes it easier to maintain and easier to remove again later should the need arise.
As for replacing the filter head with a compatible one with a primer, no one seems to know where to get one. Either that or it was too expensive? If you do find one that works, please share it with us as this, I think, would be a worth while mod rather than spending on the fuel system priming tool which in itself already costs an arm and a leg for what it is. |
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22nd Aug 2019 4:59am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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Whatever you do with the original filter head, be very gentle with it. The plastic spigots to which the hoses attach are ridiculously fragile and brittle, and if the break then you have no choice but to replace the filter head.
The fuel connectors used on the late Defenders (and in fact almost universally throughout the motor industry) are horrible cheap and nasty things. On the Defender the design of the connectors, coupled with the masterstroke of fitting the filter head right beside the rear wheel, means that the fittings fill up with crud and become almost impossible to remove. I have found the best - possibly the only - way to get them off a well used vehicle, is to spend a lot of time with the WD40 or brake cleaner flushing out the connectors and in particular the release buttons whilst at the same time working them with fuel connector release pliers until you have cleaned out enough dirt to get them to work. It can take a long time, perhaps half an hour per connector, but is still quicker than breaking them. It makes me very sad to compare a 21st century Defender fuel plumbing system with a SI or SII, which was perfect and infinitely durable, but would cost probably ten times the as much as the last systems. I bet the new Defender uses the same "quick release" connectors.  |
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22nd Aug 2019 9:12am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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Re. priming, my solution was to extend the tank breather up into the rear buck adjacent to the R/N/S light unit, now if I need to prime the system I can simply blow hard into the tank or pressurise it with an airline. Simple.
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22nd Aug 2019 9:13am |
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| MMR1988 Member Since: 29 Oct 2016 Location: Chemnitz Posts: 54 
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I just changed the fuel cooler which is mounted near the transfer box at the left side of the frame. While doing this I had to open the connectors there as well. I prepared the fuel and the coolant connectors by flooding them with brake cleaner and rust dissolve spray. After several iteration i got all of them open. Hole procedure took me about 40 minutes.
Luckily the connectors at the engines were clean enough, so I could easily attach my hand pump for removing the air in the system. /Max |
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23rd Aug 2019 8:37pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 673
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For the filter heads with built in hand pumps, I had a H*Lux that had this set up and the hoses were attached by clamps. Once the new filter is in, you just turn the pump thing then go to town on it until you can hardly press down on it then just tighten it once down.
Do you guys think we can use that with our trucks? |
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27th Aug 2019 4:25am |
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| RobM Member Since: 06 Jul 2015 Location: Brisbane Posts: 43
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Getting something like the Toyota unit would be good or there is a Racor unit that could do the job. From what I can tell the main issue is that you need the correct "fuel flow". Does anyone know what flow rate is required? I did have the thought of installing some sort of Facet Pump before the OEM filter that would assist pumping the fuel through but knowing/finding one with the correct flow rate would be the key... From reading the OEM manual, the Defender Filter housing is a little different and also works on Temperature of the return fuel as to whether it is just recycled through the Filter or returns to the fuel tank. I think this is more to do with cold climates which is something I don't think I need to be concerned about in Australia. Does anyone know the NYLON(Plastic) FUEL LINE HOSE SIZE (ID / OD) at all? Plus, I've been trying to find the name (or Code) of the Quick-Fit Connectors at the OEM Fuel Filters? Looking at the way that the quick-fit connectors connect to the barb - can u use a different (easier) type of quick-fit connector of the same size at all instead of the one where u need to push the one blue clip inwards? Cheers..... Rob 1995 Defender Tdi 110Wgn 1996 LR Discovery Tdi300 (A) 2009 Defender PUMA 110Wgn My TRPS: Rob's WikiLoc Trips |
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27th Aug 2019 7:15am |
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| Island Rover Member Since: 15 Jun 2018 Location: Grenada, West Indies Posts: 14  
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I am just going through all of this now on my 2008 Defender 110 w/ 2.4 Puma engine.
I installed the Gwyn Lewis suspension which requires the fuel filter to be relocated - moves it a few inches forward. Apparently I was not careful enough when doing this and I broke off one of the nipples from the fuel filter mount. Then, when I got a new one and tried to switch the fuel lines over, I had trouble removing them and ended up having to replace the fuel lines from the tank to the filter and from the filter to the fuel cooler. Lesson learned - be super careful with the crazy fragile fuel lines and filter!!! So now I am trying to get the fuel system bleed. I created my own low pressure fuel bleeding tool by cutting off one of the fittings from the old fuel lines and attaching it to a fuel line from an outboard motor - pressure bulb and one way valve attached to rubber hose - seems to work great - mostly. I was able to pull fuel from the tank up to the low pressure side of the fuel pump. However I have still not been able to get the engine to start. I was thinking about installing an in-line electric fuel pump with a switch for bleeding purposes. But after reading this thread - I like the idea of pressurizing the fuel tank to force the fuel into the system. So - once the tank is pressurized, how do I get the air out of the fuel rail? Open the low pressure side where I bleed it before? Will the pressure force fuel through the fuel pump? Could I open one of the injector hard lines and let the air pass out? Ah - the island is on lock down due to quarantine - otherwise I would be going to the shop and trying this tomorrow. |
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31st Mar 2020 12:32am |
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