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3WHouse



Member Since: 24 Jan 2008
Location: Msk
Posts: 70

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Java Black
MK wrote:
I changed mine @ 15000 km and it was ok. I have magnetic drain plugs on both. You should be wondering now, how the swivels are Whistle

I changed mine 10000 km .)
(oil Q8 T 65 API GL-5 SAE 75W-90) Def`s 90 & 110 Monochrome.
You can go fast i can go anywhere.))
http://www.offroadpower.ru/
Post #18739 22nd Nov 2009 5:12pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
I put magnetic drain plug also Very Happy Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #18742 22nd Nov 2009 7:07pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2262

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Today I took the infilling plugs from the swivel balls. I introduced a fine straw just to check the stuff inside. Actually it is not that thick as I was thinking. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #18760 23rd Nov 2009 12:35am
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Did you use the straw to get a level or to see if any grease was still there. Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #18790 24th Nov 2009 10:09am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2262

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Actually just to check if the stuff was in there. Roughly I would say the grease was at lowest 1/3 of the ball. If I would like to change the lubricant I would take the lower pin and bearing when still hot and then refill with the one-shot grease. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #18792 24th Nov 2009 10:30am
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Good Idea.
I suspect my grease was sucked into the diff as the breather pipe had chafed such that it had actually blocked off, almost melted closed.
Does the lower bearing pin drop out easily like the series version with an o-ring on the bottom of the shaft? Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #18800 24th Nov 2009 1:36pm
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Paul_1978



Member Since: 08 Nov 2009
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 384

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zermatt Silver
Do all varients of defender have the filler plug?
I had a look at my swivels on a 2004 TD5 last night, struggled to find a filler plug.

I think both swivels need a shot or two of grease, one of the swivels has hard grease on the outside of it.
Post #38310 17th Aug 2010 7:54am
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
from the early 300's they changed to ONLY having the filler plug - around 96 you got the drain and filler, but now its just the filler - you should only need to top up. Mike
Post #38368 17th Aug 2010 4:46pm
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Gabriel Boff



Member Since: 19 Apr 2009
Location: Rio Grande do Sul
Posts: 95

Brazil 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Hi all!

I have a question!

My 90 are with 40000km and I never changed diff's neither gerbox/T-case oils, because my dealer said that it isn't the time/mileage to do it, so, what mileage LR recomends to change this oils?

regards!
Post #38877 23rd Aug 2010 12:03am
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Paul_1978



Member Since: 08 Nov 2009
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 384

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zermatt Silver
On a TD5, the transmission and transfer box oils are changed on the "B" service, at 24k miles intervals.
Post #38880 23rd Aug 2010 7:56am
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jlerra



Member Since: 10 Jul 2009
Location: Gibraltar/London
Posts: 149

Gibraltar 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Diff oil change
Hi Dgardel,
Have changed the diff oil a couple of weeks ago after 35k/kms and the oil removed was fine. Appeared reasonably clean and clear considering it had not been changed before
I refilled with castrol (as per handbook) and all is well.
Tip: On my previous discovery I used as a thread seal PTFE (gas) tape which makes an excellent seal on the thread without any 'gunge' when removed for oil change. I do the same on my 2007 90 with the exception of the sump which I have installed the Difflock oil valve on the sump - No mess when changing oil!!

El Pepe Flamenco JLS
'El Pepe Flamenco'
Post #38882 23rd Aug 2010 9:17am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2262

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Diffs and Tbox@80kkm
Gearbox@200kkm

Synthetic oils. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #38885 23rd Aug 2010 10:46am
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jlerra



Member Since: 10 Jul 2009
Location: Gibraltar/London
Posts: 149

Gibraltar 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Diff oil change
MK,
'Pushing it a bit' - the oil changes?
jlerra
El pepe flamenco JLS
'El Pepe Flamenco'
Post #38886 23rd Aug 2010 12:03pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2262

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
You mean Engine oil?

10kkm under normal conditions. 5kkm severe conditions (dusty, towing, idle) or when using high sulphur diesel Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #38887 23rd Aug 2010 12:12pm
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Paul_1978 wrote:
Do all varients of defender have the filler plug?
I had a look at my swivels on a 2004 TD5 last night, struggled to find a filler plug.

I think both swivels need a shot or two of grease, one of the swivels has hard grease on the outside of it.


I took a chance and filled my swivel housings to the brim with one tube of one-shot grease split between port and starboard swivels.
I used an old kettle, made some water warm (not hot) and submerged the platic grease tube in there and let the grease get runny.
Then I filled a large syringe with the grease and kept topping up at the filler untill they both overflowed. Takes a couple hours as the grease keeps causing an air lock when it cools down so you need to go slowly and jump from side to side. Would work better in summer weather I guess and you get less rain on your legs sticking out under the vehicle.
Post #38900 23rd Aug 2010 3:19pm
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