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DarrenJ



Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Chassis paint or underseal?
Now I've got the defender (and intend to keep it for many years) I am going to treat the chassis. It's 1yr old and to be honest looks brand new with no rust etc at al,l I am putting this down to luck as opposed to improved land rover build quality!!

So is it best to paint or underseal with waxoyl / dinitroyl. I was thinking of painting in POR15 and then dinitroyl the insides of the chassis as per previous threads, thoughts anyone?

Cheers Darren
Post #149786 11th Jun 2012 8:03pm
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The Boy



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: East Northants
Posts: 1459

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
I udersealed mine but POR15 is really good stuff, not cheap but good.

BTW I'm in Rushden too.

Boy
Post #149792 11th Jun 2012 8:49pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Darren,

Ether do a search using 'Dinitrol,' look up posts by Zagato, or 'PM' Zagato he is the veritable oracle on this subject and there's loads and loads of posts and good advice on the issue...
Thumbs Up

Using the search facility and just by putting in 'Dinitrol' as the subject and Zagato as the author throws up 38 threads. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #149804 11th Jun 2012 9:27pm
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DarrenJ



Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
K9F wrote:
Darren,

Ether do a search using 'Dinitrol,' look up posts by Zagato, or 'PM' Zagato he is the veritable oracle on this subject and there's loads and loads of posts and good advice on the issue...
Thumbs Up

Using the search facility and just by putting in 'Dinitrol' as the subject and Zagato as the author throws up 38 threads.

Cheers for that, will do. I used POR15 on the discovery battery clamp a few years ago and it's still as new where as when I did it in Hammerite it lasted a few months in comparison.

"I udersealed mine but POR15 is really good stuff, not cheap but good.

BTW I'm in Rushden too.

Boy"

As you know then there are a lot of lanes around here Thumbs Up and the mud tends to stick quite well! The defender is in for a few warranty items at the minute, the courtesy freelander was used immediately down the lanes for a try out!! Very Happy
I used to have (well still have and about to sell) a red disco, lifted with winch bumper etc that I've been trundling around Rushden in for 10yrs, you may of noticed it / me Darren
Post #149842 12th Jun 2012 6:36am
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
DarrenJ, as K9F says there's lots of threads and Zag is the dinitrol "oracle".

chassis seem to rot from the inside out, my 90's chassis had silty mud inside the chassis, takes a while to wash it all out and a few days to dry.

before you treat the insides of your chassis make sure it's clean and dry .. if there are a few owners nearby, why not consider investing in a USB endoscope, you could then inspect the insides of the chassis.

I have used dinitrol / waxoyl and a 3M product in different areas on my truck.

Good luck with the treatment and post up some photos Thumbs Up
Post #149851 12th Jun 2012 7:24am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
OED meaning of oracle "an authority which is always correct" Hmm...that would be nice wouldn't it, instead of grubbing around under Land Rovers I could be a world power and my first ruling would be to have two types of car only, Defenders of course and Prius Twisted Evil Laughing

Darren to paint your chassis in POR-15 is going to an extreme as BPman says they tend to rot from the inside out, but you will never need to do the outside again and it will always looks great, just remember not to paint over anything you may want to undo, axle casing nuts, sump nuts etc and any threads cos once it's on it won't come off again Very Happy It's a longer job than you think, you end up painting everything you possibly can but It's VERY satisfying Thumbs Up

p.s. Don't forget their are two types, use the UV resistant stuff for any areas that will be exposed to sunlight. I used the ordinary on all mine but for the outer side of the rear cross-member and it has been fine and it spends quite a lot of time in the sun Sad


Last edited by Zagato on 12th Jun 2012 8:26am. Edited 2 times in total
Post #149862 12th Jun 2012 8:21am
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def110



Member Since: 21 Mar 2012
Location: Amersfoort
Posts: 3

Netherlands 1987 Defender 110 V8 Petrol CSW Chawton White
Quote:
if there are a few owners nearby, why not consider investing in a USB endoscope, you could then inspect the insides of the chassis.


It's not that big an investment:

http://s.dealextreme.com/search/endoscope

Another nice search on that site:

http://s.dealextreme.com/search/obd+II
Post #149863 12th Jun 2012 8:21am
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The Boy



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: East Northants
Posts: 1459

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
Darren

I have not done the inside of the doors and bulkhead yet. After this summers trip I plan to buy a new injection gun (the old aplicater gun is not a very good one) and do it in September time. You are will come to come round and do your at the same time. I agree totaly with what others have said about it being very important to do the inside of the chassis. about eighteen years ago I had a lightweight and the chassis was really good on the outside (because of the military underseal) but it rotted from the inside out.

I have always undersealed my land rover myself but it is a very dirty job and every time I do it I swear that next time I will pay someone to do it but that never happens Laughing

Boy
Post #149864 12th Jun 2012 8:34am
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WelshDefender



Member Since: 02 Dec 2011
Location: Gwent
Posts: 62

Wales 
I have recently done my chassis with this stuff and I must say for the price it seems very good. Goes on very easily and really seems to protect well. Looks very good too.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...yId_165594
Post #149866 12th Jun 2012 8:46am
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4507

Ireland 
I painted mine and put duct tape over the side holes in the chassis to stop water and crap getting into the chassis, 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #149882 12th Jun 2012 10:39am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
I bought a mixed selection of rubber bungs (in fact the shops whole mixed selection box - he wasn't happy Whistle but that's what they are there for to be sold Rolling Eyes ) and have managed to plug most of them. Think I left the bottoms ones to let water drain out.
Post #149883 12th Jun 2012 10:51am
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4507

Ireland 
Zagato wrote:
I bought a mixed selection of rubber bungs (in fact the shops whole mixed selection box - he wasn't happy Whistle but that's what they are there for to be sold Rolling Eyes ) and have managed to plug most of them. Think I left the bottoms ones to let water drain out.

Nice idea. The hardest one to "bung" will be where the cable enters the chassis on the starboard side, aft of the rear wheel and about where the mudflap bracket joins the chassis. Think you will find that the duct tape will be your only man for the job here.
Hope you appreciate the use of the nautical terms,Zag. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #149906 12th Jun 2012 2:47pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
For 'bungs' read 'blanking grommets' Wink Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #149930 12th Jun 2012 5:43pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Those are the jobbies Whistle
Post #149970 12th Jun 2012 7:54pm
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DarrenJ



Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
The Boy wrote:
Darren

I have not done the inside of the doors and bulkhead yet. After this summers trip I plan to buy a new injection gun (the old aplicater gun is not a very good one) and do it in September time. You are will come to come round and do your at the same time. I agree totaly with what others have said about it being very important to do the inside of the chassis. about eighteen years ago I had a lightweight and the chassis was really good on the outside (because of the military underseal) but it rotted from the inside out.

I have always undersealed my land rover myself but it is a very dirty job and every time I do it I swear that next time I will pay someone to do it but that never happens Laughing

Boy


Let me know when you're doing the bulkhead etc and we could maybe combine, I have a compressor too if needed. Darren
Post #150227 13th Jun 2012 10:43pm
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