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| Cakey Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 468   
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Just a bit of background . We used to spray planes with acf-50 . It was embargo at one time
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5th Apr 2013 8:32am |
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| Cakey Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 468
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I agree on the acf 50 , you need to ensure you do not let it drip too much. White spirit gets it off though.
Will have to buy some scotty to try |
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5th Apr 2013 10:12am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2664 
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I use Scottoiler 365 and ACF-50...
They do seem (to me at least) to have different properties. Scottoiler 365 seems to have lower lubrication properties, and also less resistance to being washed-off. It's a LOT cheaper, and perfect for spraying liberally into cavity-type areas. ACF's a great lubricant, and seems to survive better when washed (it doesn;t was off so easily as 365). However it's much more expensive, and it's a sticky surface to it attracts dust. 365's great for putting on a cloth to wipe surfaces, and because it doesn;t hold dust as much, it looks clean longer. However, I have used Dinitrol products all over my chassis. I use POR-15 for touch-up of black paint areas. All great products, and all wit different properties for different uses... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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5th Apr 2013 12:35pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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We use Fertan which sounds very similar in the marine environment I work in. Fertan's chemical activation actually reactivates when and if it gets wet to prevent rust. http://www.fertan.co.uk/ If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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9th Apr 2013 5:14pm |
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| rs2315 Member Since: 16 Sep 2012 Location: yorkshire Posts: 125 |
www.frost.co.uk Click on RUST in the categories section
Try these guy's, the por 15 paint is incredible stuff. A word of warning, don't get it on your hands, it will take forever to remove. Once you've opened the tin make sure you reseal air tight, (I used another container) It drys rock hard, and don't get any round lid, you won't be able to remove lid.  BTDT
rs2315. |
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11th Apr 2013 9:14pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595 
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Work seems to be pretty slack at the moment and while the weather is good I feel I should be sorting the underside of the car.
Is there a general order in which to tackle things, back to front, top to bottom sort of thing? I've just had a nose around under the car and the chassis looks to be OK, the drive train is suffering more. So maybe do that first or would that be a mistake with the chassis to do sitting above it? Thanks. Andy. |
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8th Jul 2013 9:15pm |
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| Killer90 Site Sponsor Member Since: 09 Oct 2011 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 6478 
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Andy, when i Waxoyl i go from inside out, crawl underneath and do the hard bits first, then the underside of the chassi then the outside which you see, then wheel arch inners, front axle and the nrear axle and x-member
 CSK Automotive
www.cskautomotive.co.uk Like us on Facebook - www.facebook.com/csklr Follow us on Instagram - @cskautomotive |
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8th Jul 2013 9:22pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595
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Excellent, sounds like a plan. First job is to get down the jet wash and get all those bits I've missed. I've been very careful to wash any mud off the underside but you can see the bits I've missed when crawling around under the car. Must try harder.
Thanks. |
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9th Jul 2013 11:23am |
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| d j hutton Member Since: 30 Jul 2009 Location: Dorset Posts: 1044 
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I got some rust treatment from dinitrol with the kit I bought, didn't need to use much as I did it on a brand new 110. Its an aerosol spray so easy to apply and does seem to convert the rust into something else, then treat with dinitrol.
Its part of their 'system' so I'd be inclined to go with that as you know it won't affect th entreatment. DJ 1989 200tdi 90 csw 2011 110 usw Orkney grey Buy British 🇬🇧 Defender Clothing Designs available at http://www.rangesports.com/acatalog/Defender-Stuff.html |
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9th Jul 2013 12:59pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595
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The Dinitrol is on order so it's now a live job (the first big job I'll be doing on the car!).
One last question, I've jet washed the under side and it's all looking decent enough for a starting place but how do I wash out the inside of the chassis? I've taken the rubber bungs out of the front, beneath the bumper, and it's a bit dirty in there but nothing silly. Is there an easy way to put a hose pipe into the chassis and let water flush out the crud? What's the best way to wash it out? I'm thinking I'd put the hose pipe into the chassis rails at the rear and let water run along it for a time to flush it out, maybe put the back up on ramps to allow the water to run out of the front better? Advice much appreciated. Thanks. |
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14th Jul 2013 1:46pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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If you've got a jet wash you can usually get a drain cleaning attachment which is good to work through the chassis and have the back jacked up on axle stands to let it drain out better
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14th Jul 2013 2:22pm |
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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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Just remember if you do wash out the chassis leave it for around a three or four days in this good weather to dry out. You dont want to seal water in with the metal.
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14th Jul 2013 2:54pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Unless you have been wading or doing a lot of off road work then I wouldn't bother. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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14th Jul 2013 6:06pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595
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Hello again,
I've started on my mission to rid the underside of rust, I've taken off a few bolt on bits (steps, mudguards) to help with access and was half way through taking the fuel tank cover off and suddenly had a thought. Does the fuel tank cover hold the fuel tank in place or is it just a cover? Would the fuel tank move at all if I removed the stone-chip cover? I filled it up today so it probably weighs 80kg or so, better find out before I go any further! |
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19th Jul 2013 5:08pm |
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