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cabell



Member Since: 20 Dec 2010
Location: Virginia, USA
Posts: 33
Poverty spec upgrade: help needed
I'm retrofitting factory electric windows and central locking into a plain vanilla 110. I have the factory door harnesses but I'm not sure where the harness is supposed to enter the door cards. Could one of you fine gents post up a pic of front and rear doors cards of a high spec truck?
Also, if I remove the 10as alarm to solder in a relay to make it central locking compatible will that trigger the immobilizer requiring a nanocom?

Many thanks for your help!
Post #218837 13th Mar 2013 10:40pm
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Killer90
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Member Since: 09 Oct 2011
Location: Hertfordshire
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United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Fuji White
Thumbs Up Door card should have a cut out the wires poke through the bulkhead on either side right were the hinges are then through the inside of the door card Thumbs Up CSK Automotive
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Post #218841 13th Mar 2013 10:46pm
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cabell



Member Since: 20 Dec 2010
Location: Virginia, USA
Posts: 33
Killer, I'm retaining the windup door cards and the is no cutout for the harness to enter. I think it needs to be lower in the door than the harness coming out of the bulkhead but I'm hoping for a pic.
Post #218849 13th Mar 2013 10:54pm
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achuakh



Member Since: 12 Apr 2012
Location: Singapore
Posts: 157
Singapore 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
Solder the relay. Nec ep2 3n1s. if i recalled correctly. i did mine n bought some spares. You also need to tell it to enable cdl. It's called cdl on arm, again if I recalled correctly.

There are a lot of settings on the 10as. You can even make it relock automatically when you press unlock n didn't open the door.

If you need help just ask. I've done the full works for the alarm from farmer spec. From the land of the most expensive land rover defenders on planet earth. At �125k for a XS 110 csw and you get to own it only for 10yrs! Please find me a good reason to stay on this island.
Post #218962 14th Mar 2013 1:46pm
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 656
2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
You cut the whole on the door card. If post 2002 you'll have the slot in the inner door frame. fit the harness and rubber grommet and this will give you your position for cutting the door card.

The regulators are really easy to change, takes about 10 mins per side.

Cheers

Steve
Post #218994 14th Mar 2013 3:20pm
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cabell



Member Since: 20 Dec 2010
Location: Virginia, USA
Posts: 33
Thanks gentlemen. Steve, I'll check for a slot in the door. That would make things very straightforward. Achuakh, I may shoot you a pm as I get into the 10as; I'm sure ill have a question or two!
Post #219105 14th Mar 2013 9:25pm
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 656
2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
cabell wrote:
Thanks gentlemen. Steve, I'll check for a slot in the door. That would make things very straightforward. Achuakh, I may shoot you a pm as I get into the 10as; I'm sure ill have a question or two!


Another option is to swap your current 270 10As for a 280 version.

Cheers

Steve
Post #219174 14th Mar 2013 11:55pm
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Andy Jeff



Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: Suffolk, UK.
Posts: 143
United Kingdom 1999 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Chawton White
I was told that the 10AS unit is 'paired' to the ECU and if they don't 'talk' to each other it's end of play time! So switching or removing a 10AS without the pairing being reprogrammed is bad?

Am I barking?

Andy.
Post #219177 15th Mar 2013 12:03am
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 656
2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
Removing and putting back in is fine as it keeps all of the configuration ok. Swapping would require a reprogram, but its easy. Just download config from existing 10AS. First remove connector from horn, then unplug two connectors 10AS, remove by undoing two screws either side of unit. Place in new unit, plug back in both connectors. Upload config file. Turn ignition on and off and sync key fob and all should work ok. Then reconnect horn, and all done.
Post #219202 15th Mar 2013 8:22am
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Andy Jeff



Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: Suffolk, UK.
Posts: 143
United Kingdom 1999 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Chawton White
SteveG wrote:
Removing and putting back in is fine as it keeps all of the configuration ok. Swapping would require a reprogram, but its easy. Just download config from existing 10AS. First remove connector from horn, then unplug two connectors 10AS, remove by undoing two screws either side of unit. Place in new unit, plug back in both connectors. Upload config file. Turn ignition on and off and sync key fob and all should work ok. Then reconnect horn, and all done.


Steve, which device are you using to re-program/upload config files?

Andy.
Post #219210 15th Mar 2013 9:17am
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 656
2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
It was a faultmate, but nanocom and hawkeye should be ok at doing this too. Just in case take a screen grab too as well as saving config file. That way, if there is any issues with upload, you can still enter data in manually.

Cheers

Steve
Post #219225 15th Mar 2013 10:44am
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achuakh



Member Since: 12 Apr 2012
Location: Singapore
Posts: 157
Singapore 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
If you swap out the 10AS, you also need to go tell the ECU learn to learn the 10AS. it's in the engine diagnostic section of the nanaocom rather than 10AS section.

if you didn't, the engine will crank, but will not start. You won't get the immob lights on the dash flashing or the red dot on the speedo flashing as a warning.

I struggled with this on a td5 90 before, before realising it.

but on the other hand, if you did copy the original program and put it back correctly, it might work without this, but i'll have a go at this if the day presents itself. From the land of the most expensive land rover defenders on planet earth. At �125k for a XS 110 csw and you get to own it only for 10yrs! Please find me a good reason to stay on this island.
Post #220091 18th Mar 2013 7:17am
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