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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Land Rover RAI - let's completely ignore corrosion...
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Land Rover RAI - let's completely ignore corrosion...
Just ranting here (and maybe a warning)...

I just decided to modify my LR RAI whilst it's off, as I noticed the small screws in the mounting plate at the bottom were badly corroded. When I tried to get them out, they actually fell to pieces Shocked

Whilst modifying the holes to take stainless , I dug out the brass (!!!) inserts that the steel (!!!) screws were fixed into.

Now, if Land Rover don't realise that fitting steel screws through a stainless plate into brass inserts in a wet environment is incredibly stupid, what hope is there for the rest of the vehicle Rolling Eyes Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #205559 26th Jan 2013 5:16pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Sometimes OEM isn't best.

Noticed that the mantec website seems to make a positive out of their LR appoved 3 stage powder coating process. Having had two snorkels from them - I can only say the quality of the finish is the worst I've ever seen. I mentioned this to mantec at a show and was told "it's LR appoved"m intimating it was not their problem. Not really liked manted equipment since.
Post #205697 26th Jan 2013 10:27pm
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speedymarktd6



Member Since: 02 May 2011
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 102

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Epsom Green
Anything LR sell thats black powder coated will end up rusty and rough looking within six months whereas if they were galvanised and powder coated they would probably last the life of the vehicle but everything comes down to cost and the world is run by accountants and not engineers
Post #205771 26th Jan 2013 11:59pm
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rover



Member Since: 26 May 2012
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 146

United Kingdom 
Slightly off topic but I bought a new defender last year, I was suprised it had no waxy rust proofing underneath, I asked the dealer why, he said the paint process is so good now LR don't need wax rustproofing. My wife bought a new Volvo C30 at about the same time. Guess what, the C30 has a nice thick layer of black wax underneath. I know which car will rust first. The Defender cost over £10,000 more than the Volvo. By the way the Volvo is an excellent car, It may be a Volvo 4x4 for me next time.
Post #205820 27th Jan 2013 10:23am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Back to the OP's point, it would be interesting to know the engineering justifications/design thoughts for using the different materials.
Post #205822 27th Jan 2013 10:25am
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udderlyoffroad



Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Bristol
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 
Supacat wrote:
Back to the OP's point, it would be interesting to know the cost saving justifications/design thoughts for using the different materials.


There, fixed that for you... Real trucks don't have spark plugs
Post #205837 27th Jan 2013 11:29am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Surely it can only be cost?

In "normal" dryish environments there shouldn't be more than 0.25V difference in reactive (anodic) index between contacting metals. In damp environments where there is grubby water, no more than 0.15V.

Mixing brass (anodic index -0.4) with carbon steel (-0.85) = a 0.45V recipe for disaster Rolling Eyes

@rover - I had an even choice between a top-spec Defender 110 and a Volvo XC90 (ex-pat discounts). My brain told me to go Volvo but... I think the rest is obvious Whistle

Getting married was a bit like that... eventually corrosion becomes part of the beauty Laughing Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #205840 27th Jan 2013 11:31am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
udderlyoffroad wrote:
Supacat wrote:
Back to the OP's point, it would be interesting to know the cost saving justifications/design thoughts for using the different materials.


There, fixed that for you...


Know what you mean but unless the stainless and brass was lying around then that can't be the case - it could have been knocked out all in mild steel couldn't it?
Post #205851 27th Jan 2013 11:51am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
In my view you if you wish for perfection fit it yourself instead of some 'spotty greasemonkey' with very little savvy 'nailing it on' and not giving a toss! Time, cost and attention to detail are the motivating factors without a doubt.
Why doesn't he care? Because it's not his truck! Whistle

Had a similar arguement with Datatool and the fitting of an alarm who they insisted had to be fitted by an 'authorised fitter' for the system to be registered. Despite the fact I was an aircraft electronic/electrical engineer with over 30 years experience and wanted to fit it myself and 'would do a better job!

I did win! Fitted it myself and did a better job to boot! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #205872 27th Jan 2013 12:42pm
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