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geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4385

jst wrote:
fork is cast and should be fine. mine went at 110k had the bearing, DMF and friction plate and cover done.

The cast fork may be fine but the pivot sockets and push rods are a different matter. They do wear and they do shatter and they do fall apart. I had no idea through the pedal or vehicle that this was the case.

Click image to enlarge

27th Oct 2021 6:25pm

LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 860

Ah ok i’ll Probably just continue to leave it for a bit longer. I used to have leaks from the rocker cover and fpr but they’ve been fixed for a while now. The mileage is too low in my opinion for things to be worn out at this stage. I’m glad it’s sort of ‘normal’

Is it possible that the rear crank seal could have a slight leak onto the clutch? That said it doesn’t slip at all, just judders at the biting point.

Edit: Just seen your post geobloke, we posted at the same time. What mileage did that fork and pin go at? I believe new improved ones come with the lof upgrade kit.

27th Oct 2021 6:26pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4385

That pin and fork had done 200k miles, providing they hadn't been replaced before my ownership that is.

They were A-Ok 20 months earlier when I stuck an LOF powerSpec clutch kit and flywheel in because... I was suffering from clutch judder that progressed to slip when powering up hill to join a local dual carriageway.

Clutch had plenty of meat on it, bearing was good and the flywheel was replaced as it had done 200k miles and it was time.

LOF kit cured it all.

Well until 5th gear ate itself, the bearings and the layshaft...

27th Oct 2021 6:46pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1411

If you tow steer clear of the singlemass flywheel.. I went with the organic HD clutch and stuck with the dual mass. Tow heavy regularly with a well tuned vnt turbo with absolutely no issues. I also have the lof power spring and slave, which makes the pedal incredibly light.

27th Oct 2021 9:01pm

Chris86

Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 755

We get some clutch judder with ours when its been parked up for a while, especially in cold/wet weather.

Clears after the first couple of times pulling away.

Just come to accept its a feature of our TD5

The Puma defenders at the offroad centre I used to work at all used to do the same, especially if they had been out away wet.

Chris

28th Oct 2021 10:57am

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

rallysteve wrote:
First check should be for rocker cover leak at the rear where the 'half moon' section seals the end injector rocker shaft recess. This can leak oil down into the bellhousing and contaminate the clutch plate.

Other thing to check is for a leaking FPR which can cause diesel to get onto the clutch plate.

My Td5 has always juddered when cold/damp though. Have just taken the clutch/dmf out and they all seem fine so dont think they are the actual cause. I agree with Blackwolf that the drivetrain slack, soft bushes, worn transmission and engine mountings exaggerate the issue though.

Steve

Good suggestions re. the sources of contaminants which can get into the bell housing.

I have had juddering but I suspect if the vehicle is just doing routine on-road work the friction surfaces can become glazed causing slight juddering, particularly when cold, as others have noted.

I was able to cure mine by doing a number of starts from rest, & using second gear to start for a few days where the gradient permitted. This necessitated a bit more clutch slip & seemed to remove the glazing somewhat.

I have been able to keep the clutch working quite smoothly using this procedure when necessary, once a year or so.

Cheers,

Lionel

15th Nov 2021 11:50pm

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