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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2626  
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have the normal 170's on a Abar, lightforce wiring kit but is it possible to wire it into a defender push button switch, i.e. the aux driving light one? and which wires do i connect where? could it be done with a heated seat switch (because of the price of the aux d light) not fussed about them coming on with the high beam, want them switch controlled only...
anyone with pics/ there own install would be appreciated. also... in the battery box, where the relay switch goes, what plugs into the bullet connector? and on the black and yellow wire... where does this go?  Click image to enlarge Could i have it in idiot form too, please. cheers... |
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21st Nov 2012 12:13am |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459  
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This may help a little I posttedit before but can't find where so just copied it here. It's a bit long winded but you can just read the bits that concern the lights. I will also have a look to see if I have a wirring diagram for the aux switch.
I decided to do the best job I could with my auxiliary wiring as hopefully I will be keeping this defender for many years. I did get quotes to get the job done by auto electrician but they were very expensive and one even came in at 1200 pus VAT (2009). On the Defender I had before I paid someone to do it but even though he did a great job I was convinced I could do better on this one and a lot cheaper. If you feel like giving this ago yourself it is not hard but does take some time and it took far longer than I had originally thought. VWP link http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...mepage.php I bought all the cables in bulk and on reels of which I still have quite a bit still left hanging in my small workshop. There is no getting away from the fact that wiring cable no matter what you buy is not cheap but if you do buy by the reel you will get a better price and what is left over will come in very handy for all those small jobs in the coming months and years. Fuse box. For the fuse box I went to Vehicle Wiring Products. It wasnt cheap and from memory about forty quid but the quality is really good and their delivery was quick. I recommend asking them to send you a catalogue, but I warn you it is full of great goodies and you may well spend more than you thought you might. Position. OK I decided to position my fuse box in the battery box under the passenger seat, this wont suit everyone especially those with a twin battery set up but for me it was acceptable. The VWP fuse box has four holes in the base to screw it in to its fixed position, now for this I used rivinuts so all I did was mark where I wanted them, drilled the holes and pressed in the rivinuts. However 4mm nut and bolt would do or even self-tappers. Though I am not a fan of the latter as the ends are sharp and they have to protrude somewhere and if you are as accident prone as me you know at some point in the future I would cut your hand open on one.
This done I simply placed the base over the holes and screw it down.
Supply wires. As you can see from the above photo the fuse box has two live and one earth fixing to supply the board from the battery. I purchased some high amp wires for this and fused the live one as you can see from the photo.
I should point out that I crimped and soldered all the connection and then use shrink insolating over them. This did increase the time I spent on the task dramatically but I think it was worth it to ensure they remained serviceable for as long as possible. I would recommend if you intend to want it to last to do this also. Connection failure is very common on crimp only connectors, electric cooling fans are a very good example of this though due to the position and their proximity. I have had on both cars and land rovers failures here and the problem nearly always a crimped connector. Routing the supply cables from the batteries.
Cubby box wiring. I now needed to supply nice Storage Solutions cubby box with power for the CB and the 12v sockets in the rear. Again I crimped and soldered the connections on these supply wires ready to attach to the fuse box. The shrink tubes can be bought in boxes with a selection of sizes, shop around and you should get a good cheap deal. You should also note that some shrink more than others.
The route I took was up out of the battery box at the rear exiting near the rear of the seat frame then following the line to the cubby box.
Then simply wire up the sockets and CB.
Click image to enlarge
Wiring the roof lights and roof mounted auxiliary plugs. First I needed to tap in to the supply for the trigger that would switch the relay so the lights would work when I operated the flash or full beam form the driving position. Before I had always done this from under the cowling on the steering column but when I looked on this post 2007 model I decided to tap in to the loom under the bonnet on the near side next to the bulkhead. I used a tiny pin to identify the correct wire by sticking a small pin into the wire and then putting a tester on it.
So this wire then goes to the battery box and I use plastic tubular ducting to protect it for the bits where it was exposed.
I positioned the two relays to the inner wall of the battery box, you will note I used spacers so to keep if away from the side of the battery box. Too close and it would be difficult to get a tester on specially a dark night should the need arise. The spacer was simply a few cut sections of plastic pipes
Feed to the lights and auxiliary plugs. OK so for the route for the roof lights I exited through the rear of the battery box under the middle row floor and back in just behind the middle seats.
Once back in the cabin I routed it behind the plastic window trim and out through the near side corner. I repeated this on the off side, this side was for the rear work light and the roof rack mounted power sockets. Each of the holes were sealed to make sure they were water tight.
At this point I decided to plug the wires so if required I could simply unplug and remove the roof rack if I so wished.
Click image to enlarge
I used exterior dust resistant plugs, these come in 2, 4 & 6 format.
Click image to enlarge The wiring has been in place for about 38 months now and touch wood I have yet to have any problems with it. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Last edited by The Boy on 21st Nov 2012 9:20am. Edited 1 time in total |
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21st Nov 2012 9:16am |
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| Landlord Member Since: 27 Oct 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 582 
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Likeomg - Someone with more knowledge will be along shortly but I don't think the dash switch will take the amps and the switch might melt ! Don't know what wattage the standard 170's are but at a guess you'll be pulling about 8 to 10 amps through the switch.
You will probably find the only way to wire in will be through a relay which to be fair will be a fairly easy job once you have the wiring instructions. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic795.html 2007 TD5 90 Hard Top |
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21st Nov 2012 9:19am |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459
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Click image to enlarge |
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21st Nov 2012 9:33am |
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| jayaway44 Member Since: 04 Nov 2011 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 111 
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Nice job wiring the new supply box, I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind.
1. You say "I purchased some high amp wires for this and fused the live one as you can see from the photo" what size are these wires? 2. Where did you take the - connection from. Is it from the battery terminal and if so how did you fit it to the connectors as the negative does not have a secondary thread like the positive. Thanks 2.2 2012 110 utility Orkney Grey Also Range Rover Evoque - Surprising but I like it. Previous Freelander 2 SD4 HSE - Black 90 TD5 Discovery 3 Early Discovery. |
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21st Nov 2012 11:05am |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 
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That's 4 questions
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21st Nov 2012 11:15am |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3465  
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The wiring has been in place for about 38 months now and touch wood I have yet to have any problems with it.[/quote]
I love your 'about' accuracy  1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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21st Nov 2012 11:43am |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459
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1. Think they were rated at 50amp and I bought them from a shop that did car audio installations. 2. It does on my battery but it woud be easy just to clap it onto the bolt on the eath clamp. Boy |
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21st Nov 2012 4:09pm |
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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2626
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have the lightforce set up,
ok, lets try this again how do i modify the above...? can the 2 wires be connected to the switch in this it be used on a heated seat switch / aux lighting switch? and if i don't connect the main beam wire will that give any problems? i don't want them to come on with the main beam... also where does 'C' go too? and where would every one suggest attaching the earth connector too? |
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21st Nov 2012 10:28pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19599
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Likeomg - If you don't want them to come on with just the main beam could you not have an ON/ON/OFF switch (probably a special name for this switch type) This way you can turn them on on their own or on with the main beam or turn them completely off.
So ON 1 - main beam triggered ON 2 - switched on OFF Just an idea. 
P.s. A good diagram that. Earthing point depends on what is closest to the most suitable to the area you want it. Ideally solid metal i.e. chassis or steel body which is part of the structure i.e. bulkhead. Don'e use and alu panels or anything like that. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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21st Nov 2012 10:45pm |
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