 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > diff oil seal |
 
|
|
|
| tolley Member Since: 07 Nov 2011 Location: gloucester Posts: 1114   
|
is there a easy way of doing it.??
|
||
7th Nov 2012 9:42am |
|
Refit propshaft (and I have no idea why my digit 8 followed by a bracket has been replaced with an emoticon!)
| tolley Member Since: 07 Nov 2011 Location: gloucester Posts: 1114
|
 sorry should have been diff gasket to axle.
thanks all the same very good write up.  |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 11:13am |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19615
|
As Blackwolf mentions I'd suggest Genuine parts too. I also have a pinion oil seal leak too on the rear and have the seal ready to fit (pictured below) I am just going to have it done at a dealer / indy because there's a few things that put me off and don't see the point when it is relatively cheap to have done for you. A. you need a tool to restrain the flange (many say make one but that is easier said than done) B. you have to be careful you don't score the mating surface of the inside of the housing removing the old seal. C. The centre bolt will likely be very tight indeed. And D. it's nothing much I suppose but disposal of any oil.
For around £80 ish all in I don't see it being worth the trouble. Mine soon to be fixed:  Click image to enlarge Correct genuine LR seal and part number: Click image to enlarge And what a miracle it's made in the UK!  Probably not last long then.  Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β½οΈπ’οΈπ¨βπ§π§°βοΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! π¬π§ |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 11:21am |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19615
|
 Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β½οΈπ’οΈπ¨βπ§π§°βοΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! π¬π§ |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 11:21am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16895 
|
Which axle, front or rear? |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 12:23pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16895
|
An easy and effective way to do this is to use two decent length M8 setscrews with nuts. Put the screws through two adjacent holes in the drive flange from the diff side, so they stick out in the direction of the propshaft and secure with nuts. Then use a prybar or similar tool (even a length of angle steel will do) between the two setscrews to hold the flange. The flange retaining screw or nut isn't desperately tight and this is quite adequate to hold the flange. It is a lot less work than making the proper tool! |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 12:28pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19615
|
That's true. Good idea. I swear I also read in the manual some where to to also put a small mark on the prop and flange so they both go back together in the same orientation. Something like Tipp Ex would do I guess. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β½οΈπ’οΈπ¨βπ§π§°βοΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! π¬π§
|
||
|
7th Nov 2012 1:12pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16895
|
To reseal the diff in the axle casing (note that early vehicles used a gasket on this joint, later vehicles use sealant and no gasket):-
For FRONT or REAR AXLES:- 1/ Drain oil from axle Then if REAR AXLE:- 2/ If on alloy wheels, loosen wheelnuts, jack rear of vehicle, support securely and remove road wheels. 3/ Remove the six setscrews securing the drive flange to the hub on each side, and pull flanges complete with halfshafts at least 2" out from hub (good opportunity to remove them and check for wear/damage). Else if FRONT AXLE:- 4/ Raise the front end of the vehicle so that the front wheels are *just* clear of the ground (literally no more than 1/4") 5/ Using a ball joint seperator, disconnect the drag link from the NS swivel hub (if RHD) and tie out of the way. Disconnect both ends of the tie rod from the swivel hubs and set the tie rod aside. 6/ For each swivel hub in turn, unbolt the swivel hub assembly from the axle tube and withdraw the complete swivel hub, huib and road wheel assembly approx 3" from the axle tube. Take great care not to damage or strain the brake hose. Also, be very careful that when the swivel hub comes free from the axle tube the weight of the steering arm does not cause the hub to rotate and strain the brake hose. The assembly can be left with the road wheel resting on the ground, but the steering arm must be supported on blocks to prevent hub rotation. Also be advised that the assembly is very heavy. Take care with this stage! Then for both FRONT and REAR AXLES:- 7/ Disconnect the propshaft from the pinion flange and tie up out of the way. 8/ Remove the nuts securing the diff to the axle tube and release the diff from the tube. Note that this may require waggling, beating with a hide mallet, and other forms of persuasion to come unstuck or it may simply fall out. It is advisable to loosed it while you still have a couple of nuts loosely holding it, becuase when it does come out it is heavy! It is however quite within the ability of a normal-strength person (certainly a male person anyway) to lift it down. Just be careful it doesn't fall on your chest, it is quite heavy enough to break some ribs! Once the diff is out:- 9/ Inspect diff for damage and/or wear. (If you have any early Puma with the 2-pinion fornt diff, you'll want to throw it away and replace it either with a 4-pinion diff or an Ashcroft ATB because it will only be a matter of time befor it fails!) 10/ Clean the mating faces of the diff and the axle tube thoroughly. 11/ Apply your chosen sealant and if a gasket was fitted, a replacement gasket. 12/ Lift the diff into place and secure with the nuts. Make sure that you have the nuts to hand before you lift the diff, becuase you'll be holding it up with one hand only! Torque the nuts to the appropriate torque. 13/ Refit the propshaft. If FRONT AXLE:- 14/ Clean the mating faces of both swivel hubs and the ends of the axletube. Remove all traces of old gasket, and apply sealant. You willnot be able to fit a new gasket, but sealant alone will be fine (eg Blue Hylomar). 15/ Very carefully slide each front swivel hub/hub/roadwheel assembly back into the axletube, making sure you don't strain the brake hose (an assistant is useful at this stage to jiggle the propshaft to aid inserting the halfshaft back into the diff side gears, but not essential). You will have to lift the assmblies so that the halfshaft is concentric with the axletube whilst supporting the steering arm. This is the hardest stage of the operation! One technique which may help is to slide the blade of a shovel under the roadwheel, since it will slide over the ground more easily and, by pressing down on the handle of the shovel, you can raise the weight of the wheel. When the assmbly is fully home, secure with the spline-head fasteners and if possible torque down; if you can't get a torque wrench on the fasteners just tighten them adequately and sensibly. 16/ Refit the tie rod and torque the nuts to the appropriate figure. 17/ Refit the drag link and torque the nut to the appropriate figure. 18/ Lower the vehicle to the ground. If REAR AXLE;- 19/ Clean all traces of gasket and sealant from the drive flanges and hubs, apply sealant (you don't need a gasket), then reinsert the halfshafts and secure the drive flanges. If you opt to use threadlock on the drive flange bolts be careful not to strip or shear them off (I replaced them on all four of my hubs with hex socket head capscrews with spring washers). Note that these bolts are grade 10.9 (ie not standard 8.8 ) and if you need to replace any take this into account (socket head caps are 10.9 as standard though). Torque these fasteners correctly. 20/ If you are on alloys and have removed the wheels, refit them, lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the wheelnuts correctly. For both FRONT and REAR AXLES:- 21/ Refill the axle with the correct quantity and grade of oil. JOB DONE! |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 1:27pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16895
|
I have never seen any sound engineering explanation of why this is necessary. I have never bothered to do it, and there have never been any problems as a result! After all, at manufacture the propshaft is balanced off the vehicle and fitted randomly, so it cannot make the slightest difference! If you ever dismantle a propshaft however, then you must reassemble it the same way. A centre-punch is the most popular and enduring way of adding reference marks. |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 1:31pm |
|
| willy eckerslike Member Since: 15 Jun 2009 Location: North yorks Posts: 1789 
|
Generally I just use a tube of silicon instant gasket for this.
Prepare container to collect diff oil ( check for holes ) Preps Wheel chocks, cardboard or something to lay on, 13mm spanner ring and open ended, 14 mm deep socket and dive, half inch ratchet for drain / fill plugs, 17mm socket, wire brush, releasing oil, coppercoat, string, instant gasket, hydraulic jack, drive shaft gaskets in case you damage one. Wire brush off the diff bolts and coat threads in releasing oil a couple of days before doing job. Securely chock the car Drain diff oil, undo drive shaft and tie up out of way, some people mark the flange to make sure it goes back on the same holes, I don't bother. Undo the diff to axle bolts, 16 I think, work them back wards and fwds if really stiff, you can use a windy gun for this but may damage threads. Undo the six bolts on either wheel that hole in the drive shafts. tap shafts gently to release, pull out shafts 6". Back under car, try working diff free by holding onto the drive flange and wiggling, if no success gently tap in a sharpish screw driver to beak seal work round evenly until diff is moving. If you are strong enough pull out diff, you will need a few rags around to catch any oil and to place diff on. Do not place hands fingers head or anything else under diff in case you lose your grip. Alternatively use the jack to support the diff. Put a rag in the diff case and soak up the oil left in. Clean up both mating surfaces, apply instant silicon gasket liberally. Lift diff back in try not to damage studs. Make up nuts opposite each other for even torquing, don't know torque value but a standard ratchet tight as you can laid on your back with cold fingers aqnd oily hands is good for me. Check drive shaft gaskets, if dammaged remove drive shaft and replace if not re-silicon and slid in, you may have to turn them slightly to engage also need to push down to counteract the drive shaft weight. small amount of loctite and Torque up bolts to ??????. Re-connect prop shaft, use a little loctite on bolts. Replace drain plug in diff and fill with +/- 3 pints EP90 Original Member Pie n Pea Club. 110 HCPU Tipper |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 1:42pm |
|
| willy eckerslike Member Since: 15 Jun 2009 Location: North yorks Posts: 1789
|
Sorry both posted at the same time, Blackwolfs is the better description.
Original Member Pie n Pea Club.
110 HCPU Tipper |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 1:43pm |
|
| speedymarktd6 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Worcestershire Posts: 102 
|
What year did LR swap from 2 pin diffs to 4 pin diffs ?
|
||
|
7th Nov 2012 1:50pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16895
|
I think the change was around 2008 (my '07 DC had one of the useless 2-pinion diffs) when the 4-pinion Rover pattern diff made its first appearance. Prior to that I think all Rover pattern diffs were 2-pinion, and the only 4-pinion diffs were the P38 type as used on the Puma 110 and 130 rear axle. The P38 was hwever available in both 2- and 4-pinion versions, but only the 4 has been used on the Puma. There were also of course in the earlier days the ENV type (use on things like the Series IIB FC) and the Salisbury type, but these used a radically different axle case. |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 2:04pm |
|
| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: CΓ΄te d'Azur Posts: 855  
|
The front diff on my 2011 2.4 is 2-pin.
Peter |
||
|
7th Nov 2012 9:42pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
