 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Taking a leak... |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919  
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Took a look just now this morning and the dripping of diff oil seems to have stopped (It was very slow so doubt it's drained hardly at all) Later on I'll give it a clean up and check the breather and see how it goes from there.
 I'll report back later. ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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7th Oct 2012 10:41am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919
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Well cleaned all the leaked oil up off the diff and there seems to be no more leaking at the moment at all. So will see how it goes. Not checked the breather yet due to the awkwardness of getting under to it. I'll see how it is for now as is. If it starts again I'll check the breather and so on and so on I won't bore you.
____\We|Will|Win/___
____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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7th Oct 2012 12:25pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919
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Well it's continued to slightly leak and it's not the breather... So must be the Pinion seal. I shall be going for a new genuine LR Pinion seal to replace it with but I'm just wondering what diff oil will be needed to top up with? The manual mentions Molytex EP90 ONLY* but that doesn't seem to be available any more. What would you suggest? seen some Castrol EP80 - 90 around I assume this would be suitable? ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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10th Oct 2012 11:25am |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 588  
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The manual for the Puma (Owner's Handbook, Publication Part No. LRL 10 02 51 702) gives Castrol EPX 80W/90 or Texaco Geartex EP 85W/90:
I used Castrol EPX 80W/90 for the oil change a week or so ago. Transmission fluids and capacities Transmission unit Fluid specification Fluid capacity Manual gearbox Castrol BOT 130 M 2.40 litres (4.22 pints) Transfer gearbox Castrol Syntrax 75W/90 or 2.30 litres (4.05 pints) Texaco Multigear 75W/90R Final drive units Castrol EPX 80W/90 or Texaco 1.60 litres (2.81 pints) Geartex EP 85W/90 Front axle swivel pin housings Texaco Molytex EP00 0.38 litres (0.66 pints) |
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10th Oct 2012 12:22pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919
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Thank-you.
____\We|Will|Win/___
____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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10th Oct 2012 12:39pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17876 
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On the Puma the axle end of the breather tube is a push fit in the axle tube.
These seals are very common leak points on Landrovers of all ages and provided that it is only a drip now and again nothing to worry about - just one of the ways in which the Landrover "scent marks" its territory. It only becomes a probelm if the leak is bad enough to mean you have to keep topping up the axle oil. |
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10th Oct 2012 12:44pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919
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Blackwolf - I agree with you.
Trouble is it's not just the odd drip but more or less every time it's driven it drips from this very seal. I assume whilst driving and when parked. It's only just been serviced a few weeks back and there wasn't a single leak or drip from the seal before then so I assume it's just given out since being topped up and what not. Another issue is that if oil can leak out however large an amount or small when in water surely water can get in too. (I do use a couple of fords sometimes) It's a relatively cheap fix all the same so I may as well get it sorted. ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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10th Oct 2012 12:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919
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Now sorted thanks to Steve Hill.
 ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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12th Nov 2012 5:48pm |
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| Defender-Stu Member Since: 14 Jun 2012 Location: South West England Posts: 1320
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12th Nov 2012 11:54pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919
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Only took about 40 mins if that.
 ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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13th Nov 2012 10:52am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Pretty straightforward job really. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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13th Nov 2012 1:45pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919
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I was told around an hour so allocated that time and went for a look around the shops came back and it was done. I was contemplating doing it myself but for what it cost to have done I didn't think it was worth the effort. ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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13th Nov 2012 2:26pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Apart from it being a hands on learning experience I guess not. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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13th Nov 2012 5:14pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20919
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I have the workshop manual to do it myself but I didn't have the tool (Yes I know it can be DIY'ed) nor do I fancy being under there on wet gravel. Not this time.. Not a month ago hardly I replaced the EGR valve myself which was a PITA but worth doing myself. This wasn't. ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/π¬π§πΊπΈ\____ _//*β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°*\\_ |
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13th Nov 2012 5:36pm |
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