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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3671

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Same arrangement as lots of domestic table lamp fitting so if you are scrapping one of them salvage the bits you need DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #170833 25th Sep 2012 7:40pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20842

United Kingdom 
That's a good idea too. Providing the size is suitable for the hole in the bracket of the light. My worry would be rusting though. Shame it's not SS
*Edit*
Managed to find zinc plated but not SS but that's better than nothing for corrosion resistance.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-Zinc-Plated-...3014wt_856 _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
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Post #170836 25th Sep 2012 7:51pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20842

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Just been looking and found some that I really like IPF816:

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge

Just ignore the Toyota Whistle
They come with a full wiring harness and switch ect. Although the switch can likely be replaced by a more Defender suitable alternative. I'd use a hollow bolt (If possible) and also get some IPF covers to make it look pretty Mr. Green _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
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Post #170882 25th Sep 2012 11:01pm
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cobs



Member Since: 12 Jun 2008
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 336

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Cairns Blue
This is mine - purchased from Brendan (aka Leeds). They don't seem to be on his website but am sure he'd help if you give him a call. Mine is a flood version , there are various others in the range from spot to flood.


Click image to enlarge


I went through the same issues regarding running the cables and waterproofing. In the end I sealed the single bolt holding the light on with Sikaflex and used a simple grommet for the wiring. When removing the panels to do the wiring i found numerous holes open to the elements (from new!) so decided the tiny amount of water that may come in through the grommet was probably academic!

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #170925 26th Sep 2012 9:07am
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
cobs wrote:
This is mine - purchased from Brendan (aka Leeds). They don't seem to be on his website but am sure he'd help if you give him a call. Mine is a flood version , there are various others in the range from spot to flood.


Click image to enlarge


I went through the same issues regarding running the cables and waterproofing. In the end I sealed the single bolt holding the light on with Sikaflex and used a simple grommet for the wiring. When removing the panels to do the wiring i found numerous holes open to the elements (from new!) so decided the tiny amount of water that may come in through the grommet was probably academic!


im not drilling and extra holes in mine!

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #170929 26th Sep 2012 9:10am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11325

United Kingdom 
I don't know why there's such a fuss about drilling holes. Making them watertight is the easiest thing in the world and I can't imagine a rear worklight affecting resale value, if that's what you're worried about. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #170952 26th Sep 2012 10:25am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20842

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For me I'm not worried as such about drilling holes but you must admit that as little holes as possible and the neatest job is a good idea. So if possible to only have one hole for both the light mounting and cable it will be better than having multiple holes drilled out. Especially one just to put a cable through. Yes you can have a hole drilled for both bracket and cables but then it's not as neat... _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
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Post #170963 26th Sep 2012 10:45am
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4801

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
I don't like the look of worklights so mine is mounted inside facing out of the drivers side quaterlight next to the rear door, shines out of my tinted window no problem Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
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RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
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Post #170965 26th Sep 2012 10:45am
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farmer giles



Member Since: 09 Feb 2011
Location: worcestershire
Posts: 1299

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Cairns Blue
i did see an extended number plate lamp fitting especially designed for mounting a worklamp on (for softtops, double cabs, etc) in LRO recently.
i will try and find out more details Thumbs Up
Post #170980 26th Sep 2012 12:17pm
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
farmer giles wrote:
i did see an extended number plate lamp fitting especially designed for mounting a worklamp on (for softtops, double cabs, etc) in LRO recently.
i will try and find out more details Thumbs Up


now were talking
Post #170987 26th Sep 2012 12:38pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11325

United Kingdom 
If you really want a 'no holes' solution then there are various options, although each has a variety of compromises. Mounting inside as already mentioned, is one, although positioning in a USW is more of a challenge. The other downside is that it's difficult to direct the light downwards, at a tow bar for example. Alternatively, you can use a clamp-on CB aerial mount on the rear gutter and run the cable through the door seal, but might have to be careful with the weight of the chosen light. Put a metal plate inside the roof and use a magnetic base, or even make a bracket that picks up on the existing upper door hinge bolts are other possibilities. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #170991 26th Sep 2012 12:58pm
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mobilecentre



Member Since: 05 Mar 2012
Location: Evesham
Posts: 645

United Kingdom 
We do some hollow bolt options but you still have a hole
Post #171092 26th Sep 2012 8:06pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20842

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Which one's are the hollow bolt one's? Thumbs Up _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_
Post #171097 26th Sep 2012 8:13pm
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mobilecentre



Member Since: 05 Mar 2012
Location: Evesham
Posts: 645

United Kingdom 
To be honest we can offer it on most of them as we use a bracket called a fender mount so when you mount on a mudguard on say a tractor you need the cable underneath rather than on top so use a hollow bolt mounting option. I will try to get some pics up.
Post #171099 26th Sep 2012 8:17pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20842

United Kingdom 
Thank-you Thumbs Up _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
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Post #171100 26th Sep 2012 8:18pm
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