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Norm4n



Member Since: 31 Aug 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 329

United Kingdom 
I'm interested in one of these sets, where do I buy from at the prices stated above ?

Thanks
Post #171959 30th Sep 2012 9:03am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
Norm4n wrote:
I'm interested in one of these sets, where do I buy from at the prices stated above ?

Thanks


Just give Brendan a ring and he will sort some for you. I had a cunning plan to get them all on the website this weekend but am now having to go down south to be a proper mummy, first born son has come of the mountain bike and smashed his leg up v badly.

Barbara
Post #171971 30th Sep 2012 9:48am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Killer90 wrote:
Shocked ill go with there ones pete Laughing i want it rust free Thumbs Up so hows about this group buy Question


Don't think stainless bolts alone will rid you of this issue - spotted at Spring Adventure yesterday:

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Click image to enlarge
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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #237104 20th May 2013 9:39am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
A couple of points to bear in mind.

1). Those bolts shown on Supacat photos are not Nakatanenga bolts which we sell!

2) Not all grades of stainless are rust resistant in all conditions.

3) The rust stains may well have migrated from other parts.

4) The Nakatanenga kits comes with anti seize/corrosion paste in the kit.



Brendan
Post #237382 21st May 2013 8:17am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Brendan - the rust showing was almost certainly from the hinge and surrounding body areas. It looked like this on all the hinges not just the one I photographed.

The reason I posted this was to indicate that stainless bolts, irrespective of head type or source are not necessarily going to solve the issue mentioned as it's not just the bolts that are the cause of the rust.

The bolts were A2 stainless - what grade are the Nak ones?
Post #237385 21st May 2013 8:31am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
The Nakatanenga bolts are V2A.

The door bolts are the correct Land Rover head which is the only ones available in stainless.


The kits are the most comprehensive ones available and are probably the best value for money kits on the market!

Edited to add that looking again at that photo it looks like there are some serious issues with rust and that door!

Brendan
Post #237393 21st May 2013 9:09am
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Killer90
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Member Since: 09 Oct 2011
Location: Hertfordshire
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United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Fuji White
They look to be the britpart kits, and if you take a magnet to one of them stainless bolts it sticks like Censored to a blanket Whistle Laughing CSK Automotive
www.cskautomotive.co.uk
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Post #237396 21st May 2013 9:26am
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SGH



Member Since: 27 Sep 2010
Location: Hellingly-Sussex
Posts: 1527

United Kingdom 
Killer90 wrote:
They look to be the britpart kits, and if you take a magnet to one of them stainless bolts it sticks like Censored to a blanket Whistle Laughing


Rolling with laughter and same as the fatdog ones
Post #237398 21st May 2013 9:29am
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
so whats the difference between an A2 bolt and a V2a one? assume its some kind of german standard, but are they the same?

id assumed that any stainless steel bolt you find would have to be A2 at least in order to be classed as stainless in the first place!
Post #237420 21st May 2013 10:38am
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nakatanenga



Member Since: 12 Nov 2010
Location: Neumarkt
Posts: 546

Germany 
The supplied paste is aluminium based and prevents seizing and corrosion.

It is neccessary to clean rusty hinges before fitting the kit! Otherway the rust from the hinge will move to the bolts!

The special bolts are stated as V2A but are better in real life. They are not A4A but something inbetween. They ere exclusively made for us by a large bolt manufacturer as i was unable to source them anywhere else.

V2A is A2 V4A is A4 etc

Our hinge bolts are: 1.4310 (X10CrNi18-8, or X12 CrNi17 7) WANTED:

SII or SIII in max 1.5k
Post #237433 21st May 2013 11:42am
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landybehr



Member Since: 17 Apr 2013
Location: -D-
Posts: 173

just little thoughts from me - I do agree with Nakatanenga here. We cannot expect s/s bolts or parts to withstand whatever we do with them. Iīve been told not to use grinding/cutting discs that were used on common steel parts with s/s later. Small particles of the mild steel will spoil the s/s and lead to corrosion, kind of an infection. Itīs said that one should even store s/s away from mild-steel. So putting s/s bolts into a mild-steel environment aka door hinge doesnīt mean the s/s bolt couldnīt be spoiled. Even though the picture above looks to me like only rust was washed away by water and ran over the bolts without causing themselves to severly rust yet.
OTOH I donīt think the reverse conclusion would necessarily bring me further really - i.e. to keep the standard bolts. A real argument against s/s is that they have lesser mechanical qualities compared to an 8.8 grade bolt, they are worse in sheer strength. But that probably doesnīt count here.
Post #237579 21st May 2013 8:55pm
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yobbie



Member Since: 15 Nov 2010
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 711

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 90 Td5 Heritage LE Bronze Green
A2 grade stainless steel bolts will still corrode the best grade is A4 that's what is use in the marine industry.
Post #237585 21st May 2013 9:19pm
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