DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Wiring up interior lights questions.

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Technical > Wiring up interior lights questions.

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2017

Wiring up interior lights questions.

OK< apologies for the total noddy questions but its been years since I did any of this and I want to do it right rather than half arsed like I used to.

Have ordered some MUD side panels for the rear and 2x LED lights that they sell to fit onto them (The small ones) . I also want to buy another standard interior light (Got the one in the front) to mount in the rear headlining area.

When it comes to wiring them up, should I be piggy-backing them off the front light or, taking a live feed piggyback from elsewhere and having a seperate switch?

Whats the best way to do this and how exactly is it best done? I used to use those nasty little blue clips that splice into a wire and take a feed off it (can't think of their proper name if they indeed have one)

I'm hoping it's not a complex job, but the simplest of jobs have a tendency to spiral into 5 jobs.

Ta Fellas. 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol

3rd Feb 2012 4:47pm

jwhat

Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Westmeath
Posts: 134

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green

I'd like to know this as well as I'm in the process of purchasing some rear panels for my hard top too. Tdci 110 DC

3rd Feb 2012 5:05pm

XS Pete

Member Since: 13 Jan 2011
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 632

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

Quote:
I used to use those nasty little blue clips that splice into a wire and take a feed off it

'Scotchlocs' - Don't use them they are the connectors of Satan, a proper bodge job. Use proper crimps with a proper ratchet crimp tool.

Pete

3rd Feb 2012 5:14pm

RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2017

OK, making progress, what type of crimps and how?

2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol

3rd Feb 2012 5:37pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19651

First off I'd suggest you use Vehicle Wiring Products for your supplies and also Thinwall cable. What are you intending to wire up? And how would you like these things to work?

3rd Feb 2012 6:24pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19651

Crimps: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...sterms.php I'd suggest female and male fully insulated spade terminals (as your main connectors) you may also require some ring terminals too.
Crimping tool: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...crimps.php

3rd Feb 2012 6:27pm

Paul_1978

Member Since: 08 Nov 2009
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 384

My preferance is to cut the cable, bare back and put heat shrink over the cable, then solder all three together.

If done corectly a far more secure joint than crimps or evil scotch blocks.
Looks very neat if you use heat shrink too, keeps it all together as well.

4th Feb 2012 9:10am

Zinke

Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 670

The wiring for the rear interior lights comes up the drivers side A-post. Once under the headlining there will be a connector that has the wiring for the front light and blanks in this plug for the rest of the wiring that isnt fitted on your truck. You can either wire into whats there or you can buy a new part of that harness with all the wires there ready to connect. Also the wire for the rear door switch is also in that connector and runs under the headlining and down the side of the door. The rear door switch is only a few £'s so worth fitting while your headlining is out. You can also fit the motion sensor for the alarm while you in there if you want but it needs turning on with a computer before it will work. I cant remember the wiring colours but think the rear door switch is a purple wire and you can work the others out with a meter.

Pete.

4th Feb 2012 11:10am

RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2017

I take it then I can take the feed from the front light for my two rear LED's, and put a manual switch in between, so that I can prevent them coming on with the automatic front light.

I plan to put the switch in the MUD side panel to my right shoulder, so I can select if the rears come on with the front or independently. 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol

8th Feb 2012 12:07pm

Zinke

Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 670

Yeh no problems there, the feed for the rear light in the headlining (if it was fitted) would run off the same wires as the front as standard.

Pete

8th Feb 2012 7:07pm

Zinke

Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 670

By the way each light has 3 wires to it, one earth, one permanent live no matter what and one that is powered when a door is opened or unlocked with a remote.

8th Feb 2012 7:10pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum