 | Home > Technical > Transfer Box Intermediate shaft - rear 0 ring leaking |
 
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 236   
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Hi
After cleaning up the rear of transfer case trying to find the slight leak it is definitely the intermediate shaft. I have not got a leak from the front where it normally leaks Few questions Any idea how much this would cost - only asking as I don,t want to get ripped off. Any advise on who to take it to Can the repair be done in a day, as I don,t mind staying wherever overnight 7 years leak free so can't complain Thanks |
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5th Dec 2021 5:01pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879  
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If it is simply a question of replacing the two "O"-rings on the shaft, I would estimate around 6 hours labour (plus the "O"-rings, transfer box oil, and sundries such as Hylosil and a new intermediate shaft stiff nut). This would be the minimum.
It is unfortunately quite possible that you may need a new intermediate shaft as well (which would add about £30 for an aftermarket shaft, or £200 for a genuine one). If the casing has ovalled, you either need a full transfer box overhaul with the casing bushed, or a replacement transfer box. This will add between £750 and £2500 to the bill, depending on the route you take and where/how you source the box. |
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6th Dec 2021 12:16am |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 236
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Thanks - so can be done in a day / 6hrs, this I could not ascertain from internet searches
Also from what I have scoured on the internet the rear does not oval due to being fixed by the locating tab/plate (or at least I hope) Will price up the bits and see who can do it as it appears getting the end float right is most important factor Thanks again |
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6th Dec 2021 7:08am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3210  
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If it was mine, I would be tempted to use something like loctite 420 that has good capillary action. Thoroughly clean the surfaces (such as with brake cleaner) and apply around locking tab and base of the nut. Might work, might not. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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6th Dec 2021 7:28am |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 236
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thought about trying some "snake oil" moly-slip gear oil leak stop (many differnet ones out there just going to take a punt on this one). Leak is only minor but leaving drips on the drive block paving
I doubt I will find a garage this side of Christmas to carry out proper repair, last oil service to the box was about 26,000 miles ago and i had planned on replacing the oil in another 4000 miles. So leak seal will go in now just to see if it does do anything. If it does - no more drips on the drive and gives me time to get it sorted properly If not should be no harm done to rest of the box, the intermediate shaft seals will be replaced properly when someone can do it (just need to buy more brake cleaner to keep on top of the drips on the floor  ) |
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6th Dec 2021 8:24am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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It should not be an issue on a Puma (or Td5, for that matter) since these have a selective (non-crushable) spacer sleeve between the idler gear bearings, a change from the earlier crush tube spacer. There are those who don't like the selectable spacer due to the setting up procedure if new bearings are used (although it is very easy if you have suitable measuring instruments) and the fact that you need a variety of spacers on hand, whereas with the crush tube the same tube will fit any box. Assuming that your transfer box has never been messed about with and the intermediate bearings are good, there should be no issues whatsoever with the preload. And you are right, it is fairly unusual for the rear of the case to oval, having said that it is fairly unusual for the rear of the intermediate shaft to leak. Fingers crossed it is just a damaged or perished O-ring. |
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6th Dec 2021 10:23am |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 236
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Thanks Blackwolf, really appreciate your time and knowledge
So I may be able to do myself with box insitu knocking the shaft pin forwards. Done more reading and need to get longer bolts to permit me to move the box enough to get at the front seal. Preference would be to see if Promec in Llantrisant will do it Thanks again |
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6th Dec 2021 11:02am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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Yes, that would be possible. LR recommend the use of alignment studs when removing or refitting the t-box to reduce the likelihood of damage to the input shaft oil seal, and if you used these (or more likely an affordable home-made substitute) and supported the box on a jack, you could do it without removing the box entirely.
The front o-ring fits in a groove in the intermediate shaft, and the rear o-ring fits in a groove in the casing, so in theory you could probably replace both by sliding the shaft forwards without removing the intermediate gear or the bottom cover, provided that you can get the rear o-ring out with a pick tool and the new one in without pushing it through into the box. I have never heard of anyone doing both seals in this way (the front one, yes, but not the back), but I can't see why it would be impossible but it would be very fiddly. Given that the amount of work needed to slide the box back enough to slide the shaft forwards is really just as great as the work to remove it completely, I would be include to remove it completely. That way you could take the intermediate shaft and gear out completely and check the shaft and bearings. You could also check the condition of the infamous output adaptor shaft splines and grease them, something that is always worth doing. |
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6th Dec 2021 11:25am |
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| Rabbitwabbit Member Since: 31 Mar 2021 Location: Blackpool Posts: 38 
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Hi all - I also had a leaking rear intermediate shaft seal.I did my research, bought the bits, but i really wasn't relishing pulling the box out at the side of the road to fix it. This was my last remaining oil leak (for the time being), but it was causing a mess on the road and anywhere I parked. As the weather was cold, wet and miserable I decided to try the Liqui Moly Pro line Gear Oil Leak Stop and I was amazed that after just 100 miles the leak has completely stopped!
 I was hoping it might slow the leak down until the weather warmed up a bit, but I was absolutely stunned to find it's cured it completely. I know it will probably return at a suitably inconvenient time, but I can also say the transfer box sounds quieter and smoother. It may be 'snake oil', but I'm impressed so far. the vehicle has now done 600 miles - mainly on short runs around town etc and with just a couple of longer 'hot' runs. |
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9th Feb 2022 5:34pm |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 236
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I did use it, and leak also reduced but did not do the mileage you did to see it is stopped the leak as I got it into Promec to sort out. whom also found I also had a slight moist rear seal (at the handbrake drum)
Glad they suggested I also order an Ashcroft Output shaft as mine was just about goosed at 47,000 miles Back to the "snake oil" my campervan mate had a power steering leek and used the Lucas stop leak and it also worked. |
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9th Feb 2022 6:12pm |
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