 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > African oil!! |
 
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1766  
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If I recall correctly you have a 2.2, but if the DPF / Cat is removed then at least you won’t be getting oil dilution with unburnt diesel due to DPF regens.
I suppose you need to consider how hard and in what environments you have been driving since your last oil change, and the quality of the oil and filter you last used. So If you used a quality oil and filter at last change, and the environment you have been driving in has not been too extreme, and you only need to drive a couple of hundred miles more until you can get the Correct grade of oil, then waiting until then should be ok. However that’s a lot of “ifs” and lots of variables, including the spec and quality of the oil you can get your hands on now. Noting I believe the main reason the spec of the oil for the 2.2 is different to the 2.4 is because of oil dilution due to the DFP. Not having a DPF could mean that the 2.4 spec oil will be ok in your vehicle, I guess checking what spec the Rest of world non DPF 2.2s use will confirm. If you can post the specifications and make of the oil you can get where you are that would help. Edit- just found this topic, see half way down post by 90dv and others on Non DPF spec oils, this may help widen your choice https://www.defender2.net/forum/post490085.html So looks like a non DPF 2.2 can use the WSS-M2C913-B or C standard oil that the 2.4 uses. Last edited by Ianh on 21st Apr 2024 3:30pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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21st Apr 2024 3:12pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Tanzania at the moment Posts: 1008 
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Thanks for the reply, yes we have the 2.2 & as always it works hard! Distance to get oil?
Rwanda-Uganda-Kenya….guessing 2.5k miles, the oil I can get a hold of is Toyota branded. The right viscosity but I’m guessing a B grade….. |
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21st Apr 2024 3:25pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1766
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So if you can confirm your DPF is removed, I.e you have a straight through pipe from turbo to mid section, then the 2.4 oil spec can be used and all you need to check is that the Toyota oil meets that spec . I.e WSS-M2C913-B or C standard .
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21st Apr 2024 3:34pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Tanzania at the moment Posts: 1008
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Yep DPF was removed in Pretoria & had a map off Pete. I’ll check the the spec on the Toyota oil but think it just said B ( never get the actual full spec here!) thanks….
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21st Apr 2024 4:42pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 993  
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IIRC the oil is Low SAPS to protect the DPF (burns with low amount of ash). Not sure if it withstands oil dilution any better. |
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21st Apr 2024 6:29pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 325 |
Only a used oil analysis provides information, try to keep oil usage below/not longer than 250 operating hours.
I would always go for a high-quality 5W-40 (also suitable for commercial vehicles), because it buffers any fuel input, water and degeneration of the oil due to high temperatures. Oil for Commercial vehicles provide lots of detergents and therefore keeps the engine clean. |
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22nd Apr 2024 4:33pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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I’ve got C1 (Castrol) in mine, really pleased with it and runs really nice.
I’d wait and get the proper stuff, unless you need to get it done for a particular reason? Can Opie get some out to you? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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22nd Apr 2024 8:28pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2262  
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You can use any 5w30 ACEA C2, C3, A3/B4, A5/B5, API CF (Toyota).
Ford spec WSS-M2C913-x specifies among otbers, special adfitives for timing chain wear, fuel economy etc. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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24th Apr 2024 10:59am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3209  
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What I learned thanks also to fellow forum members through the Puma 2.2 Compatible Oils https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic34176-60.html C1 oil is one of the worse performing oil for the engine, but it will protects the DPF and the environment. Since you do not need to worry about the exhaust treatments, I would right away move away from C1, and even any of the ACEA classifications. If your 2.2 is working hard and in elevated temperatures, and not too worried about that extra 0.05mpg, I would consider a slightly higher viscosity, such as a 5W40. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Apr 2024 12:24pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 678 
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Does this also hold true for 2.4 Pumas?
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25th Apr 2024 5:59am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3209
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The 2.4 does not have DPF (but has a CAT), so in my opinion C1 is not the best oil for the 2.4. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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25th Apr 2024 6:12am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2262
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These engines are designed to run the best possible way using rather thin oil, not only for the sake of fuel economy, but to allow for rapid lubrication, oil passing through small oil galleries, main and conrod bearing tolerances,etc. Not to mention the chain driving the oil pump. IMHO I would only use a thicker oil when the engine has lots wear, if at all. To be on the safe side when this engine is working hard at 100C for long periods of tiem you can use a PAO and esther based 0W30 or 5W30. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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25th Apr 2024 3:45pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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^^^^ This is true, and you also have to bear in mind sludge build up that then reduces lubrication capability anyway and in fact causes the engine to run worse and harder, with slower lubrication qualities especially when cold.
LR dealers in Europe often use C1 in a 2.4, so that’s good enough for me. (On official invoices). Eric on here had his in for a Genuine service on his 2.4, and was told it was compatible for both 2.4 and 2.2, with or without a CAT or DPF etc, it’s forwards and backwards compatible for both regardless of any items fitted. I only use Genuine parts for servicing items too, it’s worth it. This is just what I do, anyone is of course free to choose what they like. I find that it’s running just right on the genuine filters and Castrol Edge professional 5w-30 C1. Performance is good, tickover nice and smooth. I would say it’s running the sweetest I’ve known, one of the biggest wear points is when cold. My next target will be diff oils soon etc, but that’s off topic. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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25th Apr 2024 4:53pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3209
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Viscosities apart, its whats in the oil that interest me more. A few decades ago, adding additives rich in molybdenum sulfide improved lubrication and engine life. C1 oil seems to have the least amount of the good stuff, because sulpher harms dpfs and the environment. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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25th Apr 2024 7:39pm |
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