 | Home > Td5 > Fuel regulator 10p or 15p |
 
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 667   
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This is 15P... Hope this helps
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12th Jan 2024 8:59pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5423 
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Your looks 10p as it has 2 pipes attached to it. A 15p has 3 (2 hoses, and 1 pipe). The pipe runs across the side of the engine and can easily be seen.
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13th Jan 2024 9:58am |
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| Dover mike Member Since: 01 Aug 2023 Location: Dover kent Posts: 9 
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thanks mate the thing im dont understand is that some kits show the regulator with a pipe on the end and some show no pipe on the end and i cant see mine as im using the LR every day and dont want to disturb it as its already leaking is it just a case of blocking the pipe off if not needed |
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13th Jan 2024 10:40am |
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| Dover mike Member Since: 01 Aug 2023 Location: Dover kent Posts: 9
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was looking at this rebuild kit what your thoughts
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13th Jan 2024 10:42am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 899  
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Rebuild kits are good those parts are decent (I used that kit). The only issue is sometimes the rebuild leaks again. Its worth a try. The little pipe on the FPR is a drip pipe, face it so you can see it when you install it (horizontally maybe)
Personally I would install a new assembly. I did a kit and it lasted three years until it leaked again. A new assembly is still going after four years. Good luck  2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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13th Jan 2024 2:44pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 274  
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I've used these X8R kit in the past on my own 110 and have one in the workshop waiting to go on a neighbour's 90. I'd highly recommend them and they come with the necessary gaskets to match up with the difference between the 10P and 15P versions. No leaks on mine 5 years later. |
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13th Jan 2024 7:39pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 576  
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I recommend use genuine flat gasket between engine head and body of the regulator. In some repair kits these gaskets are not good. Genuine gaskets are cheap. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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14th Jan 2024 7:04am |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1571  
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It’s 10P in your picture. Think You need a rocker cover gasket/rear cam seal from the look of it too maybe.
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14th Jan 2024 2:45pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729 
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My PRV is leaking so I need to order a replacement. I'm going to get the whole assembly. Mine is a 10P (MY2000) 2 pipe.
LR Direct has the 2 and 3 pipe, but I am curious abut the description. 2 pipe is "non Euro 3 specification" and 3 pipe is " Euro III Td5 engine." What is the difference between the 2 engines, never heard of the "Euro specification" before. Am I correct in assuming non Euro 3 is a 10P and Euro III is a 15P? Here's what I'm seeing under the bonnet, and on the ground. Actually easy to see fuel dripping out the block. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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24th Jan 2024 12:29am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 899
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Have you snugged up the bolts? Its very high pressure and people often do not torque the FPR assembly bolts properly.
Good luck 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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24th Jan 2024 3:37am |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729
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Everything was torqued to spec when the AMC head was installed. From what I see it's leaking out of the diaphragm. it's a Landrover thing...
my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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24th Jan 2024 4:24am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6037 
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You want to sort that leak fairly quickly as well.... mine leaked the same, down through the joint bwteen the bellhousing and the engine, and soaked the clutch in fuel, which then started to slip.
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24th Jan 2024 9:34am |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 274
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One visual difference between the two is the Euro III engines had an EGR cooler mounted on the front of the engine, visible just below the acoustic cover behind the fan. It's a cylinder about 25cm long with 2 coolant hoses connected. I think Euro III was from 2002 onwards, it's an emissions thing. Picture credit to Geobloke Click image to enlarge |
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24th Jan 2024 1:09pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 796  
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I understand the injectors are different between the 10p and 15p. In addition to the cooler the EGR valve has two actuators, one to close the air inlet and the other to open the exhaust gas intake. Instead of just the one on the 10p.
For sure this must have to do with emissions which, as we know from Volkswagen, can be a little academic |
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24th Jan 2024 2:04pm |
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