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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Sheared crossmember tow bar and rusted chequer plate screws
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TXH90



Member Since: 19 Jul 2020
Location: Worcs.
Posts: 54

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tamar Blue
Sheared crossmember tow bar and rusted chequer plate screws
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Last edited by TXH90 on 5th Apr 2023 9:07pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #949078 11th Apr 2022 10:34pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3605

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
I think those are captive nuts, so that will be what is spinning rather than the bolt having snapped. I think you’ll struggle to get something into the back of them as well, so it might be angle grinder job followed by drilling them out.
Post #949085 12th Apr 2022 5:06am
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Are those bolts going straight through the crossmember? I took my towbar off a couple of days ago and that had two M16 fine thread bolts with nylock nuts. One came off, the other didn't- I could see from the state of the thread it was beyond hope.

I considered drilling, but it's M16 so I would need a reduced shank (blacksmiths) drill, and although I have lone suitable I decided to use the very convenient angle grinder. Rather than try to cut the head off, I estimated the diameter of the bolt diameter on the head and cut a "noughts and crosses" cut into the head without cutting as deep as the plate behind the head. I then nocked the outer cut parts of the head in and out until it broke off - you will need a hammer chisel for this. I then knocked the bolt straight through using a punch. Obviously you will need to replace the bolt.

Hopefully this explains what I did, but I have still got the bolt if you want a photo.

As for seized screws, I now use an impact wrench on them. This will either undo the screw or snap the head off. I find using a screwdriver just damages the head. I have an adapter for using a screwdriver bit in my cheap Lidl impact wrench. This has been effective with screws up to M6 (PZ3 head).
Post #949087 12th Apr 2022 5:10am
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Bundy



Member Since: 21 Sep 2020
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 98

United Kingdom 
I had a similar problem a while ago.
This post should help or make you cry!

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic78509.html
Post #949104 12th Apr 2022 8:21am
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TXH90



Member Since: 19 Jul 2020
Location: Worcs.
Posts: 54

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tamar Blue
Sad Big Cry Big Cry Big Cry Thanks all. Looks like I need to go buy some tools or bite the bullet and get it replaced with a quarter chassis galv.

Tom
Post #949151 12th Apr 2022 1:03pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If as you say in the first post you're renewing the crossmember, just cut the heads with an angle grinder and have done with them. You'll want new bolts for the new crossmember anyway.
Post #949161 12th Apr 2022 3:05pm
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TXH90



Member Since: 19 Jul 2020
Location: Worcs.
Posts: 54

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tamar Blue
Thumbs Up Thanks yes I'll give that a go- need to head to screwfix.Fairly straighforward operation to refit the new bolts? Once cut just need to fish the old nutplates from within the CM as they don't go through? Sorry for the basic questions.

Edit:- in other words I need to purchase 7 and 6 ( and probably some copper slip) to refit the towbar assembly, can anyone confirm?

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...ms_44771#1


+ angle grinder and cutting disc
Post #949164 12th Apr 2022 3:39pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The captive "nuts" are (supposed to be) welded inside the cross-member, they are not on nut plates.

In your first post you said you were "renewing" the rear cross-member, which I took to mean that you were cutting the old cross-member off and welding a new one on. If you are doing this, the new cross-member will have the threaded inserts already fitted.

If you are not replacing the cross-member, the job is not straightforward and will require that you cut out a piece of the cross-member and weld a new piece with nuts in its place. This process is illustrated which is linked in Bundy's post above.

This is not a trivial repair and whether you are fitting a whole new cross-member, or cutting bits out of your old one and welding new bits in, you need good welds since it is both structural and safety critical.

The illustration and parts list you have linked to confuses me, since it mentions M10 fasteners. Whilst I have never had a towing attachment of the type illustrated, the holes in the rear face of the rear cross-member are M12 (the smaller ones) and M16 (the larger ones) and there are no M10 fasteners used.
Post #949178 12th Apr 2022 4:46pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2520

Scotland 
There are, the three bolts that go vertically upwards into the underside of the crossmember are M10.
Post #949180 12th Apr 2022 4:56pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Aha, of course, forgot those little blighters! Thumbs Up
Post #949182 12th Apr 2022 5:01pm
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