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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 663   
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I’m glad you have posted this. As I keep forgetting that I need to order new footwell bolts, as mine as scruffy now.
What company is the diagram for and do they list the bolts as available to buy? 2008 2.4 110 Utility XS. |
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4th Apr 2023 4:11pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 909  
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I brought self adhesive foam tape off ebay, or you can use amazon.
I used a 25mm wide about 10mm thick There is creases and dips where the likes of the spire clips go attach and it helps it stop water splashing in. Older footwells I have seen warp a bit where it clamps do so it helps there too. Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest |
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4th Apr 2023 4:18pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5760 
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The diagram is from LRworkshop https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...s_52666#13 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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4th Apr 2023 7:38pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 723  
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I was looking at this myself at the weekend.
Where does the seal locate? Do the screws pass through it between the floorboards and the bulkhead? 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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5th Apr 2023 1:17pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5760
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Looks like the foam strips glue/stick to the floor plate which then in turn will mate with the floor/bulkhead footwell area. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Apr 2023 1:28pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3233  
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Yes, it sticks to the floor boards.
The original is more like 4mm thick. I used generic closed cell foam for my rebuild. Its amazing how much force needs to compress the foam, and can easily end up bending the floor board, especially at the corners. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Apr 2023 1:56pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5760
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I think I will be purchasing some of the foam, it might help reduce road noise by sealing the floor plate to bulkhead a bit better. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Apr 2023 1:58pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16978 
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I imagine it is the same as the stuff used for the second-row floor-plate on an SW or DC, in which case YRM can supply in it rolls.
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5th Apr 2023 2:11pm |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 549 
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It's strange you should mention this...
My Defender is in bits at the moment because I'm fitting new floor plate seals. Over time they loose their springiness, fail to seal, increase noise, let water in and cause squeaks. As has already been mentioned YRM supply the stuff you need. |
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5th Apr 2023 3:08pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2203 
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I did recently buy the pre-cut R380 floor gasket kit from BoB on ebay. They look a decent fit but are expensive for what they are. I would just use the YRM neoprene seal from the roll i think.
Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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5th Apr 2023 3:11pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5760
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Have you a link to the R380 floor gasket please? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Apr 2023 3:38pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2203
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234741814450
 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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5th Apr 2023 4:16pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5760
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Cheers. For some reason I thought you meant for the R380 tunnel!
But good to see how the seals are meant to look 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Apr 2023 7:05pm |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 549
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It's a pain of a job.
First remove any matting/carpets from the front. Remove the steering wheel, you'll be glad of the extra space. Take out all the screws from the transmission tunnel. No need to remove the tunnel but just lift it up 6". Do the driver's side first. This is the most difficult because the pedals get in the way. Assembly is the reverse. |
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6th Apr 2023 3:02pm |
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