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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Blackness & Aviemore
Posts: 1239

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Engine, Gearbox & Transfer Box Oil Change

I got loads of help from this forum, planning to do an early-life oil change. I was spurred-on even more by BigMike's post:

Quote:
Several dealers have taken delivery of new vehicles in sept and early oct and there was no oil in either the gearbox and / or diffs. Needless to say there've been some pretty angry new owners with seiezed diffs and gearbox problems.


I thought I would post this, to help others in the same state - planning a oils service...

Engine Oil

Engine oil is easy to do. You'll need 27mm & 13mm sockets, new oil, filter, torque wrench, drain bucket and about half-an-hour.

Get the truck level, and slide in from the front (you do the filter & drain from under), you'll see this:
Click image to enlarge


Oil filter is the dome on the left (passenger side of vehicle), with a 27mm hex on the bottom.
Oil drain is the 13mm obvious drain on the bottom of the sump (top right of photo).

Loosen the filter first (you'll need a long extension bar, as it's well recessed above), let the oil dribble before you remove the plastic dome completely. Then take out the 13mm sump plug, and let the oil sump drain.

When you remove the filter completely, it's a small paper-type element which just fits back into the plastic dome. You get a new O ring with the filter, so change that too.

It holds around 7 litres, so make sure you have something big enough to hold all the old oil...and it DOES come out fast so be prepared. It should be warm, so it drains better.

The oil is Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 A1 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil (Recommended by Ford) - you will need 7 litres. Most buy 2 x 4 Litre cans from Opie Oils.

When refitting, you can re-use the oil drain plug, it has a rubberised washer.

Tightening torques are:
Oil Drain plug: 23nm
Oil Filter housing 35nm

When I put the new filter in, I filled the filter & plastic cup with some new oil first, to make sure the engine got oil as fast as possible when started-up.

I put just over 6 litres of new oil in the normal route, then checked the dipstick, and it was already showing on the dipstick, I put a bit more in, and started the engine, ran it for a minute, and then left it to settle. Once settled for a few mins, I then topped it up to the full mark on the dipstick. That was slightly less than 7 litres.

The Puma has 1 filter, part number LR004459.

Gearbox

Uses 2.2 litres GL4. I used Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75W-90 Fully Synthetic MTF (Replaces SMX S 75w-85).

You need a T50 Torx for the fill and drain. Remove filler first just to make sure. A bit of a sod to get at the filler (note not a level plug) plug as you'll see on the photos further down. You'll need a T50 that will actually fit in this clearance...

Once you remove the drain, it empties quite quickly. Worryingly I only got just over 2 litres out of mine, it must have been slightly short on oil. The original fluid also smelled of acetate Surprised ...


Refilling is a pain, as the filler is up behind the exhaust and the driveshaft (assuming you have warmed the vehicle, it's likely you'll scald yourself on the exhaust), you'll need some way of getting the new oil in (a pump) I bought a fence-spraying 5litre job from B&Q for about 16:
Click image to enlarge

and attached a metal "hook" into the gearbox:
Click image to enlarge

shown here inserted (you can see how tight the clearances are to get your hand in there):
Click image to enlarge

Once that's all in place, all I had to do was pump 2.2 litres of new oil into the gearbox (a good time to grease the propshafts) Very Happy

Remember the filler plug is NOT a level plug, you need to measure the oil...2.2 litres for a service change.

Tightening Torques:
Gearbox Drain Plug: 50nm
Gearbox Filler Plug: 35nm

Transfer Box

No Photos here, you need a half-inch square drive for fill and drain plugs. Loosen the filler first - clearance is tight as it's tucked-up 10cm North West of the output shaft and gives an access issue, as it's tight to the handbrake drum.

Drain comes out easy with the half inch drive. This drain plug has a magnet on it (strange the gearbox doesn't).

Using the 1 litre oil bottles the oil comes in, I managed to re-fill without using the pump, just with the bottles.

Refill to the level plug (2.4 litres). I used Fuchs Titan Race SYN 5 75W-90 Fully Synthetic Gear Oil (was Silkolene SYN 5 75w-90) - this one's GL5.

Tightening Torques:
Transfer Box Filler: 30nm
Transfer Box Drain Plug: 30nm.

When I measured the oil taken out, I only measured 2 litres...it must have been a bit short...I'll be keeping an eye on it over coming weeks.

I'll be doing the axles next, but that looks (hopefully) a lot more straightforward... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Volvo XC70 (Work)
BMW K1200RS


Last edited by MartinK on 20th Oct 2011 4:29pm. Edited 4 times in total

Post #95079 19th Oct 2011 4:57pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 6179

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 Ice LE Alaska White

great post Martin Thumbs Up cheers BPman

Post #95090 19th Oct 2011 7:07pm
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mermoto



Member Since: 21 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 326

Nice one Martin - like the idea of using the garden spray to pump the oil in. Thumbs Up Where did you get the hook nozzle to fit it?

Mermoto

Post #95093 19th Oct 2011 7:26pm
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terrierman



Member Since: 07 Oct 2010
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Many thanks for taking the time to share this. Often these things seem rather daunting to unseasoned landy owners and having some pics and good description really helps. Thumbs Up

Post #95096 19th Oct 2011 7:58pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Blackness & Aviemore
Posts: 1239

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

Thanks for the comments, gents.

mermoto wrote:
Nice one Martin - like the idea of using the garden spray to pump the oil in. Thumbs Up Where did you get the hook nozzle to fit it?

Mermoto


It's from a Laser Tools 4385 mini-pump.


I had actually used this mini pump to refill the gearbox on my old Discovery TD5...it took AGES! I took the plastic hose and it's bent "hook" off the mini-upmp, and used them to extend the hose on the B&Q sprayer. Worked a treat. I had looked at the Difflock OilSafe which does the same job, but costed 100!

Here's a link to the rather nice OilSafe one at Difflock. Had it been cheaper, I would have bought one...but at 98 it's a bit too much ... http://shop.difflock.com/oilsafe-pump-litre-p-93.html - hence the trip to B&Q earlier this week.

The B&Q pump I loaded with 2.2 litres of oil, and once I'd pumped it about 20 times, it dispensed half the oil (in a couple of mins whilst I got a grease gun onto the prop shafts), and then a few more pumps to re-pressure it and the job was done! Great!

Re the hook - you could probably use a short length of copper microbore from the plumbers merchant... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Volvo XC70 (Work)
BMW K1200RS


Last edited by MartinK on 20th Oct 2011 4:22pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #95101 19th Oct 2011 8:24pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Warwick
Posts: 1918

United Kingdom 1988 Defender 90 Td5 NAS Replica Aegean Blue

Stickied Smile Td5 retrofitted 1988 90 NAS soft top Mr. Green
Eeeny meeny miney hood Mr. Green

Post #95153 20th Oct 2011 9:21am
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DefenderOfTheEarth



Member Since: 09 Nov 2010
Location: Cornwall, UK
Posts: 1302

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green

Brilliant! However my indy has just done this for me (at 42k miles) and looking at the above, I'm glad he did! I'd completely and utterly mess that up! Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion.

Post #95154 20th Oct 2011 9:24am
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Bill



Member Since: 20 May 2011
Location: Wicklow
Posts: 39

Ireland 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

Brilliant Thumbs Up 08 Puma 90xs
BMW R1150R
KXF250

Keep On Truckin

Post #95168 20th Oct 2011 10:29am
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dilukabey



Member Since: 17 May 2011
Location: Sri Lanka
Posts: 110

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green

How often do you have to change the gear box oil, diff oil and transfer box oil? Mine has gone pass 21000 miles and I guess my previous owner hasn't changed either.

With hotter climate countries, is there any specific oil type or is it just same as what book says? Smile

Post #95707 23rd Oct 2011 7:08am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Blackness & Aviemore
Posts: 1239

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

Here's the maintenance schedule for PUMA:

Click image to enlarge

80,000km for transfer box & axles
200,000km for gearbox.

But you should increase this maintenance frequency under hard usage (and for peace of mind!). Here's the "Arduous Usage" recommendations
Click image to enlarge


So if you are towing frequently or driving in mountainous conditions ("Z") you should change the transmission oil & Engine oil more frequently (12,000 miles or 12 months). If you're offroading a lot ("Y"), the you should increase the service frequency on components such as the Aux belt & also greasing props (the greasing is pretty logical). Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Volvo XC70 (Work)
BMW K1200RS

Post #95727 23rd Oct 2011 10:00am
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Jammer600



Member Since: 27 Feb 2011
Location: Bath/Warminster
Posts: 306

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green

Is it castrol edge oil? Or magnatec?! Smile

Post #109223 22nd Dec 2011 7:41pm
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Bearcat



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Dublin
Posts: 57

Ireland 

I just did my 90 yesterday, fiddly bloody jobs changing all the fluids but I have access to a ramp.. Mine is a 07 with 70k miles on her with a full LR dealer history which in my world means sfa......in the uk it means something over here dealers just bless cars and do the minimalist approach and then folk wonder why their gearboxes just collapse at 80k. Fuel filter was manky, never changed, changed the tx box oil, gearbox oil, spheres everything......alll the fluids really were tired and smelly. My advise 70k change your fluids down below. My gearbox change now is much more fluid pardon ze pun. Current...07 90 Puma commercial
Porsche 930 1988 (laid up)
Previous Td5 90 & V8 90

Post #116985 20th Jan 2012 11:07am
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 936

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver

I don,t know if this would work on a puma but on my TD5 i feed a length of clear plastic pipe down to the gearbox filler plug from under the bonnet poke a small funnel in the end of the pipe and pour the oil in and let gravity do the work. No mess ,minimal expense. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Post #141963 26th Apr 2012 7:41pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 6179

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 Ice LE Alaska White

Lou Sparts wrote:
I don,t know if this would work on a puma but on my TD5 i feed a length of clear plastic pipe down to the gearbox filler plug from under the bonnet poke a small funnel in the end of the pipe and pour the oil in and let gravity do the work. No mess ,minimal expense.


just make sure you don't overfill ... it's not upto the level of the plug on a tdci (not sure about a td5) cheers BPman

Post #141975 26th Apr 2012 8:15pm
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 936

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver

The R380 gearbox on the Td5 has a filler/level plug but even so i usually borrow one of Mrs Sparts nice measuring jugs to pour from (only when she,s out of course). Could do the same to get the correct quantity in the Puma gearbox. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Post #141985 26th Apr 2012 9:05pm
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