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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Landscape, your symptoms sound a little like mine (see my thread "contaminated fuel"). Does it cut out like it's been switched off, or die like it's out of fuel?
Post #284645 23rd Nov 2013 7:36pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
Yes agree Lorryman
unit could go wrong be shorted out ,water ingress etc etc
All I was saying if unit is working right ( as standard settings ) its only allowed to stop it starting not stop engine once running and if right fob/key used and fob is not checked once running correctly

MY MATE SAYS WE SHOULD GO BACK TO HORSE AND CART , THINK HE IS RIGHT SOMETIMES
Bloody cars !!!!!!
Post #284648 23rd Nov 2013 7:42pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Yet the workshop manual tells you the 10AS will not send a valid mobilisation code to the IPAC if the fob is not present and this will inhibit the starter and injector circuits stopping the engine Thumbs Up
Post #284652 23rd Nov 2013 7:50pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
stopping it from starting? .. not stopping the engine once running
think its just the way its worded in the manual
Post #285120 25th Nov 2013 4:02pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Shocked Sorry, but have you read this thread??? The 10AS did not send a valid mobilization signal to the IPAC hence the engine shut down on Merlin after 5 minutes (passive immobilizer) because the contamination on the 10AS pins stopped a valid mobilization signal from being transmitted. How can anyone say that the EMS can't shut down the engine when it does not receive a valid mobilization signal from the IPAC when the proof of this happening is all over this thread??
Post #285129 25th Nov 2013 4:40pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
yes it can stop the engine if its got water in it or something wrong with it but that's not standard or working as it should.
I was saying about the theory of the unit checking the key fob every 5 mins or what ever that someone said about on forum and stopping the engine, it doesn't as I took my key fob off for 25 mins yes this for one that has no problems .. not got water in it etc
I did not say if the as10 was knackered it would not stop the engine


Out of interest how did it start in the first place if immobiser code could not be sent
Post #285137 25th Nov 2013 5:14pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6260

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Sorry if I missed something......

Not as simple as a blocked fuel filter?
Post #285175 25th Nov 2013 6:52pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
it's all to easy to get dragged in to thinking problems are in electronics.When sometimes you have to go back to basics
Post #285182 25th Nov 2013 7:08pm
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110SEB



Member Since: 29 Jan 2009
Location: Essex, England
Posts: 1444

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Post #285237 25th Nov 2013 9:14pm
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Landscope



Member Since: 23 Nov 2013
Location: Cumbernauld
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 
hi all I am sure its electrical! the garage wants to replace the fuel pump but I think its the immobiliser as when I brought it home it cut out again after 8 miles and then when I parked it up it would not start like starter would engage then immediately disengage and then it would do nothing at all when you engage the starter. left it for 30 mins and it turned over no bother at all!!

What do you lot think?

Lorryman100 I would like it if you could manage over on Sunday to work some magic and see if it can be fixed.....

Thanks

Brian
Post #285413 26th Nov 2013 4:45pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Check that the main and starter circuit relays under the offside front seat are really firmly in their sockets. Pulling the relay should pull the connector block off the mounting tab before the relay comes out of the socket.

The starting symptoms you describe are common and are often attributable to one or other (or both) of these relays not making good contact. It may be worth introducing a slight kink in the legs of the relay to make sure all 4 are tight. It takes minutes to do and just might solve the problem.
Post #285433 26th Nov 2013 5:42pm
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auntie_prawn



Member Since: 16 Sep 2017
Location: Wales
Posts: 1

United Kingdom 
Sorry to revive this but I'm hoping for some help as I'm having a problem which i suspect is the immobiliser on the key fob.
The problem is me and landrover are in Congo so I can't just take it to a garage.

It was previously going into limp mode mid-journey which felt quite dangerous. WE replaced the potentiometer and then the filters, including head unit. ThIs made it much better. It no longer really seems to drop out mid journey, but sometimes it starts and stays in limp mode when I try to pull off (more or less no revs) and sometimes it's OK. It's safer than cutting out mid journey but it's still not reliable. I don't feel like there's anything wrong with the engine when it does go faster than limp mode.

I think the problem now might be the immobiliser on the key fob and I need not to know how to disable the immobiliser so I can see if that sorts it out. I had ideas that it might be as simple as turning it on and then taking the battery out of the fob and just not using the fob any more but it seems from a read of this thread that it isn't that simple.

Can anyone advise?

I am not good on cars, but have someone who is pretty good at the mechanical stuff - but I don't think he'll be great on the electrics unless it's quite straightforward. There isn't a landrover garage here so I can't go into one to get them to look it. So far I've had the car for a year and only managed to drive it under 200 miles because of this problem and the time it's taken us to look at it so far, so I'm really grateful for any suggestions you have. I do have the 4 digit reset code for the key but I haven't tried that yet as I'm not clear what will happen if I get it wrong!

Thanks for any help and advice,
Lorna
Post #650633 16th Sep 2017 2:02pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If your Defender is a TDCi the immobiliser can be disabled very easily but only with a Nanocom or similar diagnostic tool. It is however extremely unlikely that a fault with the immobiliser would put the vehicle into limp mode, it is much more likely to prevent the vehicle from starting or, just possible, cause the engine to cut out and not restart.

Do you have a fault code reader? Since something is happening to cause the ECM to put the engine in limp mode whatever the event is must have been detected by the ECM, so there should be stored DTCs ("Diagnostic Trouble Codes").
Post #650646 16th Sep 2017 3:07pm
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MartnH



Member Since: 30 Oct 2017
Location: Nsw
Posts: 28

Australia 
Hi blackwood,
I recently had a similar issue.

Do you know if the nanacom evo can disable mobiliser on a my13 puma defender?
Or even able to code a replacement 10as (earlier version of the black box 10as on puma defender) to the ECU?

Thanks
Martkn
Post #694193 18th Mar 2018 12:00am
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