 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Advice needed: Transfer case |
 
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 105   
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So I took my d90 to a mechanic today as its been leaking from pretty much everywhere on the transfer case. They assured me that at a minimum all the seals need replacing. He also said that even after the do that work, does not guarantee it might not still leak. The cost would be around 1200USD.
The other option that I am learning towards is buying a professionally rebuilt Transfer case. The cost or that is around 1700USD. i am really leaning towards the replacement and then maybe I can sell the removed one to recoup some money. https://www.legendsoverland.com/products/l...atio-1-222 1989 Defender 90 2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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26th Jul 2022 2:19am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3214  
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If you have the original engine from 1989, it may struggle a bit with the 1.22 ratio. Your current transfer box should be 1.41 ratio. There is usually a sticker stating the ratio next to the oil filler plug. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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26th Jul 2022 6:26am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 
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The vast majority of leaking transfer boxes leak from they intermediate shaft O-rings. These o-rings go square and leak.
This is a good video from Britannica that shows the problem area https://youtu.be/3M2b_8ZCm3s Worth taking am look as it will arm you with info with which to go to your mechanic. There is a further issue with this shaft in that it can make the hole in the transfer case a little oval so even the new o-ring doesn't seal well or for long. The fix is to add a metal sleeve in to the transfer case which being harder than the aluminium case won't go oval over time. More info here at Ashcrofts https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/produ...ed-casing/ What engine do you have in the 90 by the way? |
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26th Jul 2022 9:49am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Hi,
$1200 to change seals vs $1700 for a rebuild - it's all expensive, but I do think the rebuild sounds like better value. On the other hand, all I've read/gleaned over the years is that the LT230 is a pretty rugged and long-lasting thing and might not need any attention at all except the seals. FWIW my own experience (1994, 300Tdi, 240k miles) was that the transfer box ran OK, maybe a little whiney at times, but as I was dropping the gearbox out anyway, and sending that to a specialist, I added the transfer box to the order. They made some improvements and modified the casing - to remove the risk of the 'ovalising' that geobloke has mentioned. Now I know the box is good for another 230k miles at least. One other thing - and it has been mentioned above - depending on what engine you have in the car, and what your use and local terrain are, I'd be wary of changing the transfer box ratio. Recently I've done a lot to my car to try and improve the engine performance - turbo, intercooler, fuel pump etc. At that time I opted to have a different 5th gear put into the main gearbox. I never know whether to say that's a higher or lower ratio, but basically it meant that 5th was now almost a 6th. Even with my improved engine it struggled in 5th. OK on good roads, and flat terrain, but that's not what I have around here. It was hard to live with, so much so that I sent the box back and got them to swap back to a stock 5th gear. Changing the transfer box ratio would have the same effect, especially going to 1:22. Over here a common enough change is to go for the Discovery ratio, which I think is 1:35, but even that might be a struggle depending on your car. Finally, I don't know the market over with you - there are rebuilders and there are rebuilders. Before spending the money, be sure that the ones you're buying from have a good reputation and warranties. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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26th Jul 2022 11:10am |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 105
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This is really great knowledge. Thank you all so much for taking the time to write such thoughtful responses. I am going to check with the transfer case rebuilder and ask him about any preventative modification he does or can do - like the metal sleeve.
My Motor is a 200TDI. Thank you for the ratio suggestion. I will leave it the same. I will be putting slightly larger tires on but plan to keep this stock height, 1989 Defender 90 2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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26th Jul 2022 4:24pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2233  
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https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/produ...ed-casing/
Details of sleeved casings here > 110 XS Double Cab > Instagram @simonlanemind |
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26th Jul 2022 4:32pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 105
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Thank you I just sent them an email to inquire when they might have the sleeved case back in stock. I think that is a VERY good idea 1989 Defender 90
2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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26th Jul 2022 4:35pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2233
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You could always buy the sleeve itself and have your case machined since you're across the pond - see here https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/produ...teel-bush/
Or have someone over there make you a sleeve and fit it > 110 XS Double Cab > Instagram @simonlanemind |
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26th Jul 2022 4:43pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2233
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Synchro also do both items
Sleeve https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product...at-sleeve/ Casing https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/lt230t-sleeved-casing/ > 110 XS Double Cab > Instagram @simonlanemind |
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26th Jul 2022 4:44pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16902
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For info the LT230 in my Puma 110 lasts about 150k miles between rebuilds, and the Puma is a transmission-eater. In my TD5 Disco2 (a smoother engine and much kinder to the driveline) the original transfer box lasted 250k miles*.
You don't say the mileage you have done, but it is unlikely to have worn the box out unless it is significantly high (or you are an animal)! There are essentially three oil seals and two "O"-rings in the transfer box, and $1200 to change them is extortionate, but on the other hand $1700 for a full rebuild probably isn't too bad. I have having trouble understanding the difference in price between these two. They both require the transfer box to be removed and the bottom cover removed, but the rebuild is far more work than just replacing the seals. * The most interesting thing about the Disco box at 250k miles was that no trace whatsoever remained of the brass thrust washers in the centre diff, they were not just worn, they simply no longer existed. No metal fragments had ever come out of the drain plug, so they must have just worn away equally and totally. The reason I changed the box at 250k was due to the intermediate shaft bearings starting to "pick up" and make a nasty screeching noise. There was no particular damage to anything in the box and I have now fully rebuilt it with one of Dave Ashcroft's excellent full rebuild kits (so all new bearings and seals) plus a new HD intermediate shaft and it is good to go once again. The Puma box at 150k was whining quite severely due to wear in the intermediate shaft bearings, but like the Disco box apart from that was fine. I rebuilt that one also with a full kit from Ashcroft but with an ATB centre and HD intermediate shaft. The ATB significantly added to the cost but was worth every penny, especially bearing in mind the relative fragility of the LR centre diff. |
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26th Jul 2022 4:45pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1759 
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Discovery ratio is 1.22, hence it being such a common swap! Ashcroft do offer a "custom" 1.3 ratio, which some people are very happy with on here. The "V8" 5th gear you mention is a 0.732 vs the 0.77. It makes the gearing taller in 5th (reducing engine revs on the motorway) but not by much. The 1.2 ratio transfer box makes it taller and in every gear. My Td5 used to struggle stock with a trailer on in 5th. I've since had it mapped, and without a trailer it keeps pulling right up until I get scared. |
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26th Jul 2022 5:00pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 105
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Ok great news talked to the Transfer case builder and YEP he sleeves all his rebuilds. 1989 Defender 90
2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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26th Jul 2022 5:47pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 105
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welp, a new Transfer case is on the way... not really how I envisioned spending 2k on my Defender, as I want to do a bunch of fun stuff... But, the mechanical is super important. All the other stuff can wait. Thank you all so much for the input and specifically on the sleeving, as I was not aware of that. 1989 Defender 90
2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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26th Jul 2022 9:18pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2557 
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Good luck, hopefully it sorts it for you. You’ll be gutted when it’s leaking again in a years time but that’s Land Rover ownership
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26th Jul 2022 10:21pm |
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