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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19651

United Kingdom 
When is the best time to get it changed as preventative maintenance ? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #955762 17th Jun 2022 6:04pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3216

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
^^^ never found any data, and there seem to be early and earlier failures.
Technically you could check the condition of the chain by checking phase shift between the crank sensor and the cam sensor. But also no values for that, but perhaps can compare with one that just had a new chain installed. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #955764 17th Jun 2022 6:31pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16931

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
custom90steve wrote:
When is the best time to get it changed as preventative maintenance ?


Before it breaks.

Sorry, not helpful! Whistle
Post #955767 17th Jun 2022 6:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19651

United Kingdom 
I’d tend to think 100k - 120k, seeing as the serpentine belt is approx 50k changes. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #955768 17th Jun 2022 6:40pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16931

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Wethering Landy wrote:
Dear Everyone

You are all so helpful. I am of course reluctant to have a new engine if I can avoid it as I have bad experience with re-cons. Plus the engine number will change and that could devalue it.
I will look at the manual later with a beer.


I very much doubt that a change of engine number will devalue the vehicle, it will be decades before it becomes important that the numbers match on a Puma. You will however find that a new engine is painfully expensive. it is possible to buy brand new 2.4 engines in Defender spec to avoid a recon, there are those who say that the Puma engine does not take kindly to being reconditioned, although if it is done properly I don't see why there should be any problems.

Alternatively there are engines available from accident-damaged vehicles now, although they will always be something of an unknown quantity.
Post #955769 17th Jun 2022 6:43pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16931

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Ads90 wrote:
blackwolf wrote:
Many years ago the cambelt failed on my Mk5 Cortina, and I was very lucky - there was a very slight witness mark in the carbon on one piston where it had grazed a valve, but all the valves were straight and the mark didn't extend through the carbon to the piston. "Lucky" does happen sometimes!

I had the same on my Mk5 Cortina too!
I was warned it could be toast as I had repeatedly tried to restart it thinking it was just stalled, before my dad suggested I check the cambelt.
Had a mate tow me home and I put a new belt on it from Halfords and it ran good as new.


I ended up towing myself home! Fortunately I was only about half a mile from home, so I walked back, grabbed my S1 (my only other road-legal vehicle at the time) and a tow-rope, and went back to the Cortina. I then towed it a little bit at a time with the handbrake on moderately so it wouldn't roll by itself, stopping to jump out and steer the front wheels when necessary.

Needless to say this was on very quiet roads and I wouldn't attempt it now.
Post #955770 17th Jun 2022 6:51pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16931

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
custom90steve wrote:
I’d tend to think 100k - 120k, seeing as the serpentine belt is approx 50k changes.


Hmm, I wonder what mine is like at 255k miles in that case..... Crying or Very sad
Post #955774 17th Jun 2022 7:34pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19651

United Kingdom 
Blackwolf - Well as you know it’s just one of those components that can let rip at any time. Like the clutch’s. You just never know when the Defender will ruin your day, then subsequent weeks and months later. Laughing

Gotta laugh, but then when considering the typical car is often as good as scrapped at anything over 80k miles then LR’s do well.
Though typically the older LR’s seem to do far more miles trouble free than modern, and the newer they are the less miles they seem to do.
That’s progress for you by LR. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #955799 17th Jun 2022 9:53pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2603

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I recall my indie telling me that the 2.4 engine was designed in such a way that should the timing chain snap, the engine shuts down without damaging anything.

but don't take my word for it, speak to indies who deal with the Puma Thumbs Up --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #955822 18th Jun 2022 8:39am
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Hi Naks

Now that does sound interesting. Perhaps you can kindly tell me how I can fine Indie?

When I look at Defender90 Keswick's video of the cylinder head fitting and head gasket fitting - there does seem to be quite a substantial thickness of head gasket. Perhaps this creates a gap that stops valves being hit?

It did sound like it just jumped out of gear - and then it just faded away. There was no catastrophic noises.

I have ordered a new chain and will go through some of the listed items in this thread this weekend - but it would be good if I could speak with Indie??
Post #956719 28th Jun 2022 11:17am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2603

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
He's actually close to you these days: he left ZA and is now the Service Manager at Engine 710 in Edinburgh
https://engine710.com/
+44 131 331 2810

Chap by the name of Phill McGee

I'm not 100% that this info is correct, it may be have been for another engine. But I don't think we were talking about the AJV8, so it could only have been about the 2.4 Tdci. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #956721 28th Jun 2022 11:23am
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
You are a very kind chap. I will post the outcome here to let everyone know what he said.
Post #956722 28th Jun 2022 11:25am
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Well here it is - The Tdci 2.4 Puma engine is a non interference engine because it is designed to withstand a chain breaking. It is to do with how the valves are shaped in the head.

Thanks Naks and also Phil McGee at Engine 710 for this golden news! If I could buy you both a beer I would!

My next stage is to re-fit the chain.

My friend is concerned on how we tell where to fit the chain on the bottom sprocket to ensure the pistons are in the correct position. There are timing marks on the inlet and exhaust but how do we get the bottom one right?

Do we just follow a Youtube tutorial such as Defender90 Keswick's one?

Has anyone got info on this please as getting it wrong would not be good.
Post #956732 28th Jun 2022 1:25pm
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
PS - He did say that the most common cause of the chain snapping is the oil pump seizing. I need to check this.
Post #956736 28th Jun 2022 1:31pm
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Wethering Landy



Member Since: 17 Jun 2022
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 39

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
As I am waiting for the new chain to arrive, my mind is wondering if I should replace the oil pump whilst I have everything 'open'.

How hard is this to do when the engine is still in the vehicle? The sump needs to come off and then apparently lining up the chain/pump to ensure it runs true is tricky.

Any advice?

I am asking on this tread as I have been told it could have been the trigger for the chain snapping in the first place but I don't know how to test it.

That of course might be the other option?
Post #956862 29th Jun 2022 9:27pm
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