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PatrickB



Member Since: 26 Jul 2021
Location: Manchester
Posts: 22

United Kingdom 
Cost of Repair following MOT fail
Took a bit of a battering in the MOT today, failing on quite a few bits (see below). Whilst I’d usually have a crack at fixing most things I’m not sure I’d be able to a lot of these. Particularly as I don’t have a driveway to work on. I appreciate this could vary a lot but what would you expect to pay to have this stuff repaired?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects)

. Steering linkage ball pint worn to the extent there is a serious risk of détachment Ofside
Front (on steering box) [2.1.3 (b) (li)]
• Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick Offside Front [1.1.13 (a) (i)]

Repair immediately (major defects)

• Headlamp aim too high Nearside Front [4.1.2 (a)]
• Headlamp aim too high Offside Front [4.1.2 (a)]
• Shock absorbers has an excessively worn bush Nearside Rear [5.3.2 (c)]
• Shock absorbers has an excessively worn bush Offside Rear [5.3.2 (c)]
• Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush excessively worn Nearside Rear [5.3.4 (a) 0)]
• Anti-roll bar pin or bush excessively worn Nearside Rear (D bush) [5.3.4 (a) ()]
• Anti-roll bar pin or bush excessively worn Offside Rear (D bush) [5.3.4 (a) (0)]
• Track rod end ball joint dust cover insecure so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt
Nearside Front [2.1.3 (g) (li)]
• Brake pipe excessively corroded Offside (front to rear) [1.1.11 (c)]
• Brake pipe excessively corroded Offside Front [1.1.11 (c)]
Post #946477 21st Mar 2022 3:22pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1760

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
They're all doable if you're handy with a set of spanners. Especially the track rod end/steering bits I'd say.
Post #946479 21st Mar 2022 3:40pm
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PatrickB



Member Since: 26 Jul 2021
Location: Manchester
Posts: 22

United Kingdom 
Yer i thought most of the steering stuff looked ok, not so keen on the brake lines though!
Post #946482 21st Mar 2022 3:43pm
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Snowy90



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 482

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Fuji White
i would have said about a mornings work for a garage to do the steering and suspension stuff so about £300 plus parts and VAT at an indie. £500 at a dealership. Just a good old guestimat

Not sure about brake lines, i paid £800 for a fluel line on a merc!!! Big Cry
Post #946487 21st Mar 2022 3:51pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19683

United Kingdom 
I’m no expert but brake lines from what I can see are readily accessible on a Defender, I was looking at mine just the other day.
I would get that work done professionally and you’ve got peace of mind too.
Personally I leave safety critical things alone, as if anything went wrong….
Steering and brakes, I don’t touch those but each to their own.

Rear damper bushes, are those the upper or lower?
If upper, I can’t understand that as I had the same on mine though minor even though I had them replaced 3 months before.

I can only but assume it’s one of those things put down to justify not outing a clean sheet through all the time.

Brake pipes and steering are likely to be the ones that’ll cost a little bit but the rest are very easy to get done and wouldn’t cost a lot at all.

Surprised they didn’t correct the headlight alignment for you, I had that once and the tester kindly put it bang on for free himself… and said to me it passed but that and he did that for me so it did.
Headlight alignment is only about £10, brake pads very little.
Anti roll bar stuff you can do yourself, worship manual is on here.

The choice is yours really, do feel for you though I know what these things are like.
When fixed though, does make it all better. Very Happy Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #946517 21st Mar 2022 8:59pm
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matchap801



Member Since: 05 Aug 2021
Location: Somerset
Posts: 120

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
I recently did all the brake pipes on mine. A few of them are certainly are not easy to get to and replace - both fronts are a real struggle. Getting the parts was a nightmare. In the end I measured them and motor_dad on eBay made me a set. Look him up and see what he can do for you.

I used my garage door to align my headlamps. Using a piece of wood to mark the sides of the vehicle, then measure the centre line. Measured the heights of headlamps from the ground. Switched headlights on and worked out a left offset and dip. Passed first time.

Rear damper bushes readily available and fairly easy to fit - normally need a pipe wrench to hold the shock bottom to undo the nut!

Track rod end kits available. As well as the drop arm kit. There is a manual in here that gives all the steering / drag link measurements. Did all mine in the garage. The big issue was separating the old ball joints from the tubes. Nightmare! May pay to shop around and get new ones al together. Get the steering alignment / tracking done afterwards! Much easier if you have a vice, bench, heavy duty pipe wrench and extension bar!!

Never had to do ARB link bushes.

Lots of this can be done at home if you are experienced, confident, have access to the parts and the time. As a qualified mechanic the brake pipes didn’t worry me too much - but there are safety implications if you aren’t qualified. 2009 Defender 90 CSW 2.4 TDCI.
Ex Army Mechanic still living the dream.
Post #946522 21st Mar 2022 9:50pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16977

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
ARB drop links are simple items to replace.

The whole lot is probably half a day's work to a competent DIYer with the tools, or a day if you're new to it. There's really nothing difficult there.
Post #946542 21st Mar 2022 11:50pm
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