 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2007 Defender Tdci Remote Fob and alarm/immobiliser issues |
 
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| s55shh Member Since: 30 Dec 2019 Location: staffs Posts: 186  
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did you follow the proper procedure for battery changing?
try repairing the fob. Unlock and enter alarm goes off. Put ignition on, but not try to start. Then ignition off. Quickly press lock button on remote multiple times (supposed to be 4 but mine was 5). If it repairs, it will start working, locking central locking and flashing indicators. Otherwise dunno |
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2nd Sep 2020 6:33pm |
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| SR4x4 Member Since: 02 Sep 2020 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4 
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I have given that a go, might give it another try tomorrow, don’t want to inflict the dulcet tones one the Defender’s horn on the neighbourhood any later in the evening...I had thought that it would have paired by pressing the lock button multiple times, as that’s what I had to do with my Td5 when the battery went flat in the remote on that one too!
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2nd Sep 2020 6:36pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2243  
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Check under offside seat fuse 6
I think number 15 below? (Otherwise check all 10 - 16) If it comes back to life but the fuse shortly pops again then it’s likely the wiring in one of the flexi boots between body and door has worn and is shorting  Click image to enlarge > 110 XS Double Cab > Instagram @simonlanemind |
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2nd Sep 2020 9:32pm |
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| SR4x4 Member Since: 02 Sep 2020 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4
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Hi hank,
Would the worn cable between the body and the door stop the remote fob from working completely? Or do you think I might have two issues? A broken fob and damaged wiring between the body and door? Thanks |
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2nd Sep 2020 9:54pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2243
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A couple of months back I had a shorting door boot wire which had popped the fuse resulting in no action whatsoever from the fob
Not sure whether you may have two issues, but it’s certainly worth checking that fuse as a starting point See my thread here for more details https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72211.html > 110 XS Double Cab > Instagram @simonlanemind |
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2nd Sep 2020 10:35pm |
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| SR4x4 Member Since: 02 Sep 2020 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4
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When you had the issue with the wires between the bodywork and the door on your 110 did the alarm sound and the immobiliser prevent you from starting it? That’s what’s happening with mine, so currently the only way to get in is to use the key in the lock on the drivers door (this does work the central locking) but when I then open the door the alarm sounds the horn, and if I put the key in the ignition to try and start it the engine kind of half turns but won’t fire up. It makes the right kind of noises as if it’s about to start by initially cranking but then dies out again. This is different to when the battery went in my Td5 110, the immobiliser activated and the lights came up on the dash but other than that nothing happened, no partial cranking of the engine.
All of this is making me think about having a change again and getting something a bit different...Anyone want to buy a 90 hardtop?? Hehehe |
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2nd Sep 2020 11:09pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2243
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I don't think I tried to start it. I do not recall any alarm.
Either way it's worth starting with the fuse I mention, and in fact all fuses related to central locking, alarm and immobiliser See here https://www.lrworkshop.com/electrics/defen...nd-headers > 110 XS Double Cab > Instagram @simonlanemind |
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3rd Sep 2020 8:35am |
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