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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Thanks Roel,

I had another look at it today, nearly broke out the pressure bleeder for a second time but contented myself with separating the master cylinder from the servo and checking all that out for any cracks and leaks.

I decided I was good for about 3/4 of a turn outwards of the servo pushrod nut, and reassembled.

On my test run there are definitely two pedals. First one is better than it was; second is brilliant! If I could just get to that as standard I'd be a very happy camper.

I have left it with the pedal wedged down tonight just for the hell of it! We'll see if that makes a difference tomorrow. Both sets of calipers and pads are relatively new, so I don't think I've much to be gained there.

While I was out, I did the 'servo check' again: press the brake pedal a few times to use the vacuum; press the pedal and start the engine. I definitely would not say there was a substantial or significant drop in the pedal as the vacuum built up again.

I am still pondering a master cylinder swap..... but on the other hand, I've read so many brake bleeding threads on the web where others have done the same thing and not noticed a difference.

Anyway, let's see what tomorrow brings! Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #835541 6th Jun 2020 6:02pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7706

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
What did tomorrow bring?

Anyone clarify if holding down a pedal overnight helps?

I have a 110. Been doing some brake work on 130 so thought would change fluid on my 110 too.

No changes to brake system other than the fluid.

Pedal travel is greater than it used to be now fluid had been changed.

Still stops sharp on that first press but has excess play at start of pedal press.

Pumping Pedal makes no difference. Still soft to Start and then firm pedal.

The fact pumping the Pedal makes no odds, as does leaving it between presses, leads me to think its not air.

This is the 5th fluid change I have done on the vehicle.

Have bleed it twice with pressure bleed and once with vacuum bleeder.

Still the same.

My only observation would be the fluid transfer out the rear calipers is much less than the front for same pressure and time. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #967781 15th Oct 2022 7:31pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7706

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Hoses are not expanding with pressure. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #967784 15th Oct 2022 8:07pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Hi James,

I did leave the pedal pressed in overnight but I can’t really recall that it made a huge difference. It’s easy to try anyway.

In my case I’m now sure that the issue was actually a loose wheel bearing. As you’ll know this is often suggested when someone asks about brake pedal travel. I was sceptical because I couldn’t feel any play but eventually circumstances dictated that I was away from home and had to have the OSF bearing changed at a garage. They did a poor job which I had to redo myself a couple of days later, and I saw that they hadn’t fitted the hub seal properly = new bearing still loose = wheel wobble + poor first pedal. Since I’ve fixed that (and tightened all three other corners as a precaution) I have a brake system I’m happy with.

Do you have a front/rear bias valve fitted? I know it’s not standard on 110s but apparently some did. If so could that be playing up? Might that also explain the lower level of fluid coming through the rear calipers? Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #967815 16th Oct 2022 10:11am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7706

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
No bias valve Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #967866 16th Oct 2022 2:37pm
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