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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Painting a galvanised chassis
Hello folks,

I would like to crack on and get my Richards Chassis galvanised chassis painted. I understood the process to be:

(1) Clean up any burrs, and check threads are re-tapped
(2) Apply Mordant T-wash using a brush ( https://paintman.co.uk/shop/mordant-t-wash-solution/ )
(3) Wait for T-Wash to dry and wash chassis off with water
(4) Apply etch primer within 48 hours of applying the T-wash, using a spray gun ( https://paintman.co.uk/shop/etch-primer/ )
(5) Apply chassis-black paint, either brush or spray ( https://paintman.co.uk/shop/chassis-black-enamel/ )

I was all set up to order this little lot (and a fresh set of appropriate breathing-mask-filters). However after watching a few of the LRTV episodes, Chris was recommending the use of Arc-Rite for paint.

They don't seem to do T-Wash - however they do sell a direct-to-galvanised-metal primer:

https://www.arc-rite.co.uk/arcforce-etch-g...red-primer

Has anyone had any experience with this paint, or Arc-Rite in general? Assuming it works as well as the T-wash in terms of paint adherence, this would be preferable for me as:

(a) Less steps
(b) No need to wash the chassis with water - which will be troublesome in a garage where I don't know if the water will flow outside (I cannot move the chassis outside to do this)
(c) No worries about not getting the primer on within 48 hours of the T-wash. While it is warm this week, it might not be next week when I plan to do it, so I do have a slight concern that 48 hours might not be long enough to fully dry.

Cheers!
Chris. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #734543 13th Oct 2018 5:38pm
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under_rover



Member Since: 02 Apr 2013
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 150

2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
Hi there Hufflepuff,

Here's what we did with our Richards chassis.
Dry wire wooled chassis
Painted with mordant solution
Re wirewooled any areas that hadn't turned black and recoated with mordant solution
Left to dry for 24 hours
Sprayed with universal primer
Left 48 hours until no longer tacky
Topped off with chassis black from Frost retoration
Threads are all cleared prior to dispatch from Richards. Thumbs Up
Have a peek on my rebuild thread if you'd like to see the results Cheers
Laurie

90 rebuild thread - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62909.html
Post #734549 13th Oct 2018 5:59pm
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Romadog



Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: Powys
Posts: 1746

Or...
T-wash if fresh galv, then spray with Buzzweld CIO (chassis in one)
See my 90 build here
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic51671.html

Gives a lovely genuine finish.....did mine with 6 x small spray cans.

Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #734572 13th Oct 2018 7:34pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1546

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
I wouldn’t see why you’d have to T-wash and etch as are theyre sort of the same thing.

Last edited by NickMc on 14th Oct 2018 1:04pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #734600 13th Oct 2018 10:38pm
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Ghound



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: northern ireland
Posts: 45

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Alaska White
Don't let the T Wash dry out, it an acid that will keep eating into the galv, give it 10mins to go black then hose it down with water.
Post #734602 13th Oct 2018 10:58pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Hmm so a variety of different options. I will consider them all, thanks. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #734603 13th Oct 2018 11:08pm
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under_rover



Member Since: 02 Apr 2013
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 150

2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
Here's a link from the horses mouth on the use of T Wash Thumbs Up

https://www.galvanizing.org.uk/painting-galvanized-steel/ Cheers
Laurie

90 rebuild thread - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62909.html
Post #734614 14th Oct 2018 7:32am
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 719

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Cannot help with your chassis painting query, but I have used Arc rite for various spray cans and other supplies and found them very helpful and reliable.
Post #734617 14th Oct 2018 7:38am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
I've only recently discovered T wash and I've found it gives better results than any direct to galv paint that I've previously used. As NickMc says though, no need to etch prime afterwards; regular primer and top coat are the way to go. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #734628 14th Oct 2018 8:44am
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NAS90



Member Since: 26 Sep 2018
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 45

United Kingdom 
With the new chassis for my 50th arriving this coming week (if Richards manage to arrange transportation) I logged on this morning to start a thread asking for advice on the best way to treat the chassis and there it was at the top o the list, so questions largely answered instantly!

One question that does remain after the answers above; while it may not be strictly necessary, is there any down side to using an etch primer after the T Wash? If not I am leaning towards the T Wash, Etch Primer & Chassis paint route. Is there such a thing as too many Defenders?....
NAS90 Soft Top, 50th Anniversary, Spectre 110 Puma,
Ex Italian Police 90 with JE V8 Auto
Post #734639 14th Oct 2018 9:57am
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under_rover



Member Since: 02 Apr 2013
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 150

2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
You shouldn't need etch primer NAS90 the t wash has done the etching bit for you, just make sure there's no shiny galvanising left and you'll be ok priming straight onto the chassis Thumbs Up Cheers
Laurie

90 rebuild thread - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62909.html
Post #734641 14th Oct 2018 10:11am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1546

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
I think this video explains the different types of primers quite well and the common misconceptions.

If you T-wash you don’t etch, if you etch only a thin coat is needed, etch is basically an acid that keys the metal.

Be careful of mixing different types of paint especially on something so expensive, you could do more harm than good Thumbs Up

Post #734648 14th Oct 2018 10:34am
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 723

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Its great to see an active discussion, thanks for all your input.

Curiously Frost's page on the subject (supplied by the "funrover" folks):

https://www.frost.co.uk/how-to-paint-galva...me-coating

does indicate using an 2-pack etch primer after the T-wash stage. I've heard from a professional paint spraying friend I used to know that these 2-pack products are property nasty for your health, and really require an air-fed mask which I don't have access to - so I would have preferred to have steered clear of 2-pack if there were comparable alternative solutions.

Weighing up the thread responses, I think I am currently leaning towards the following procedure:

(1) Clean up any burrs, and check threads are re-tapped
(2) Apply Mordant T-wash using a brush
(3) After the T-Wash has gone black (~10 minutes after applying) and wash the chassis off with water
(4) Apply etch primer within 48 hours of applying the T-wash, using a spray gun
(5) Apply chassis-black paint (satin black), with a spray gun

So now I just have to pick a retailer for this little lot, from a so far collected list of:

https://www.arc-rite.co.uk
https://paintman.co.uk
https://www.frost.co.uk

It seems to make sense to use the same brand primer and paint to reduce the possibility of a unexpected reaction.

... and I thought this would be one of the easier parts of the rebuild. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #734670 14th Oct 2018 12:15pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1546

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
2k will be ok without an air fed if you’re brushing (still need a cartridge mask) it’s when the particles are airborne that’s the real bad bit.

Chromates are what you need to be safety aware of in Etch primers

I wouldn’t attempt to spray a Chassis with a standard paint gun at home it’s not practical or cost effective in my eyes, too wide a fan and won’t spray upside down and in the nooks and crannies without say PPS cups or the like £££.

Honestly I’d go for something brush-able and industrial.

Have you tried your local automotive paint supplier? Or maybe sprayguns direct, chris there would be able to give you trade experienced honest answers.
Post #734674 14th Oct 2018 1:03pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2520

Scotland 
You may need to degrease prior to T-wash/Mordant as contamination on the surface can impede the reaction. It’s obvious though if this occurs as there will be shiny bits still.

I’ve done several and always gone:

Degrease
Rinse
T-wash
Rinse
Repeat above as necessary until all ‘treated’

Then whatever paint system takes your fancy. I used CIO from Buzzweld/Arc-Rite.


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Post #734682 14th Oct 2018 2:11pm
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